Archives de catégorie : billets et commentaires

Thinking of Maureen Dawney expert in authentification jeudi, 17 août 2017

I thought of you when I wanted to organize the traditional debauchery that we make with friends around the August 15th week-end.

I took in my cellar in the south a bottle with no label. A catalog of an auction sale lays near the bottle and I can read : Palmer 1990 the year is confirmed by the cork easily readable.

I look at the capsule and the name of Chateau Palmer is clearly carved, but the drawing does not evoke to me a Chateau bottling.

Anyway I take the bottle with the hope it could be good. To take risks is unavoidable.

When I want to open the bottle at 11 am for a lunch at 1:30 at the home of friends, I take the bottle in hand and it is only at this moment that I see a label with a code bar which is the same as in supermarket and I can read Palmer 1990.

Then I look at the capsule and I see a line around the capsule at the top which could be a cut made. Is the top of the capsule belonging to the capsule, I am nervous.

I cut the top of the capsule and I see some dark mud on the top of the cork which is good news. This cork has an age which corresponds to 1990 or around.

I lift the cork and I have a superb cork indicating Palmer and 1990 and from what I see no doubt is possible. The level is perfect, in the neck.

I smell the wine and I am happy. This will be a great wine and in fact, it was the winner of the lunch with seven bottles, before Lanson Noble Cuvée 1988 and a particularly good Mouton 1985.

A bottle with no label, with a label of supermarket, a capsule with a drawing which is curious, a capsule which could have been cut, a too perfect level, all that made me think of you. Because it was very difficult to say : this is a real Palmer 1990. But it was.

I am not used to such a drawing

the label as in a supermarket

the capsule looks as if it were cut on the top

the level is very high

the cork is very nice

this indicates that the cork has age. A good point

perfect cork

Differences in describing wine mercredi, 16 août 2017

By a true hazard I went on the blog of Michiel Demarey who describes himself so: « I’m a epicurean fine wine lover, pianist, philosopher and champagne freak. In 2010 I started with Champagnifique, a blog where I shared my tasting notes free of charge. The Champagnist is my new project where I write (together with my team) about producers, champagnebars, gastronomy, lodging and luxury. In 2017 I got recognition for my work and I became Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne« , and I saw the notes about Champagne Selosse Millésime 2005. (http://reviews.champagnist.com/?p=7361 ) :

« Tasted November 2016 at Grand Tasting Paris. Tasted out of Riedel Riesling Grand Cru and Zalto Burgunder. Made of 100% Chardonnay. Very aromatic and smooth aroma of english orange marmelade, lemon peel, ripe jackfruit and pomelo, overripe mirabel plum, glue, fermented fruits, ginseng, candied ginger, typical Selossian oxidative notes, green tea, sweet scented bedstraw and bison grass. Very peculiar indeed. The mouthfeel is soft and mouth caressing. On the palate you get candied orange, Charentais melon, a hint of pourriture noble and a touch of Manuka honey together with complex fermented tones and mild herbs. The finish is long with orange, white pepper and soft woody spices. Yet another ethereal wine of Selosse and a lovely expression of the vintage. / Rating: 93/100 »

Here is the note that I wrote on this champagne drunk together with another Selosse: « The Champagne Selosse Grand Cru Initial Blanc de Blancs Brut disgorged on 21 September 2011, an equinox day, is served at the same time as the Champagne Selosse Grand Cru Extra Brut vintage 2005 disgorged on November 25, 2015. Both champagnes have very similar colors, of fine gold. According to the associated flavors and depending on the gradual warming of the champagnes in the glasses, the preferences will vary, sometimes for one and sometimes for the other. The Initial is made of wines of three successive years unlike the vintage. I find it more ample and the final more bouncing than the vintage champagne which is finer, more delicate. Very clever the one who would divide these two champagnes excellent, very different but having a common DNA of this great maison de champagne. The small sardines are ideal on these two very lively champagnes ».

It is clear that the two presentations are very different. Michiel is extremely analytic and makes a much more complete description, in which I feel lost.

My notes are more synthetic, focused on the pleasure created by what I drink.

There is no better or no worse and probably the two are necessary but I must confess that for me two much analysis puts me not at ease and refers to tastes that I will never try to find in a wine.

« tous les goûts sont dans la nature ».

Note: I became Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne without any relation with any work.

 

Article dans le Magazine « M » du Monde du 5 août 2017 samedi, 5 août 2017

Courez vite acheter ce magazine car il y a en page 25 un intéressant article d’Alexandre Duyck sur le vin et les collectionneurs de vins rares et anciens. Il y a des choses très intéressantes et qui méritent la lecture, mais je réagis que quelques points :

Je n’ai aucune compétition avec Michel Chasseuil ni recherche de titre. Nous avons deux conceptions très différentes de la collection de vins anciens. Je respecte la démarche de Michel Chasseuil qui a trouvé des pépites exceptionnelles mais il a la volonté d’amasser alors que j’ai la volonté de boire les trophées que j’ai acquis.

L’idée que j’ignorerais « férocement » Michel Chasseuil est sans fondement. J’ai envie au contraire de le rencontrer mille fois s’il le faut pour le convaincre de partager les flacons de sa cave.

L’argument cité par Chasseuil selon lequel ayant bu déjà tous les grands vins il peut se permettre de laisser mourir ceux qui restent est absolument stupide. Rien ne justifie de laisser mourir des trésors gustatifs.

Heureusement nous partageons la même passion, par des chemins différents.

Enfin, Chasseuil parle tout le temps d’argent et se montre fier d’avoir refusé une offre stratosphérique. Lorsqu’on collectionne du vin pour le boire, on détruit de la valeur puisqu’un vin bu vaut zéro euro. Alors, à quoi sert de parler de la valeur qu’il avait eue ?

Le livre de l’été dimanche, 30 juillet 2017

L’été est souvent l’occasion de s’occuper de soi, de prendre de bonnes résolutions et de mettre en œuvre des conseils avisés.

Savoir remettre en cause son alimentation, non seulement ça fait du bien mais c’est gratifiant.

Le livre « Faites-vous du bien ! » est aux éditions Hachette Cuisine.

Tiens, comme c’est bizarre, l’auteur s’appelle Agathe Audouze. Y aurait-il un rapport ? Oui, c’est ma fille cadette, propriétaire des restaurants Pinson à Paris.

Le film « Ce qui nous lie » de Cédric Klapisch – un bon plan ! dimanche, 25 juin 2017

Ce film va sortir le 14 juin 2017 et j’ai eu la chance qu’on me propose de le voir en avant-première.

Voici ce que dit le synopsis :

« Jean a quitté sa famille et sa Bourgogne natale il y a dix ans pour faire le tour du monde. En apprenant la mort imminente de son père, il revient dans la terre de son enfance. Il retrouve sa sœur, Juliette, et son frère, Jérémie. Leur père meurt juste avant le début des vendanges. En l’espace d’un an, au rythme des saisons qui s’enchaînent, ces 3 jeunes adultes vont retrouver ou réinventer leur fraternité, s’épanouissant et mûrissant en même temps que le vin qu’ils fabriquent ».

J’ajouterai un élément important du film qui est le problème des droits de succession sur les terres bourguignonnes, problème qui s’amplifie de jour en jour.

Quand ce film sortira, courez vite ! C’est une ode à la Bourgogne, remarquablement traitée, sur fond d’une affaire de famille sentimentale très bien jouée et superbement écrite.

J’ai reconnu avec plaisir Jean-Marc Roulot en vigneron « adjoint » et Alix de Montille en agent immobilier !

Ce film est génial, un poil trop long (1h53) mais tellement émouvant qu’il faut le voir séance tenante.

Ce qui ne gâte rien c’est qu’Ana Girardot est très belle. On pleure avec elle.

“World’s Best Wine List 2017” mardi, 6 juin 2017

I have received this message by an email. As many wine lovers read my blog, I imagine that they will be happy to read where are the best wine lists in the world and that the organizers of this raking will be pleased that I mention their work. So, here it is :

The World of Fine Wine, in association with Octavian Wine Vaults, announces

« World’s Best Wine List 2017 »

Winner of the « Best Wine List in the World » Named as Palais Coburg from Austria

372 restaurants receive the top tier three-star award in 2017 World’s Best Wine List Awards

New York tops the list with 42 restaurants receiving a three-star honor

​London is second with 29 restaurants receiving the top honor

London (June 6th, 2017) – In association with Octavian Wine Vaults, the fourth annual « World’s Best Wine Lists » have been announced today with Palais Coburg in Austria receiving the honor of the « World’s Best Wine List 2017 ».  Three hundred and seventy two establishments around the world were also awarded the top three star award.

The « World’s Best Wine Lists » are judged by some of the world’s leading critics including Alder Yarrow, Francis Percival and Ch’ng Poh Tiong, and assess over 4,500 of the best wine lists before determining the very best from around the world. The lists are based on a range of criteria that include: breadth, depth, interest, quality, value, clarity and accuracy.

New York maintained its position as the world’s wine list capital, with 42 restaurants in the city claiming three-star awards followed by London who had 31 awards make the top honor. Melbourne, Australia, followed with 17 restaurants claiming three stars, while San Francisco, USA, and Sydney, Australia, both had 15 restaurants with three stars. Chicago, USA, trailed closely with 12 restaurants receiving the top honor.

New three-star entries included Arlberg 1800 Resort in Austria, Hawksworth Restaurant in Vancouver, Canada; Rouge Tomate in New York; 67 Pall Mall, London; RPM Italian, Washington D.C.; Meat Fish Wine in Auckland, NZ; and Tipo 00 in Melbourne, Australia.

The awards are renowned as the « Michelin Stars » of the wine list industry and included a number of best-in-class category winners including The Barn at Blackberry Farm in the US for Best Spirits List; Charlie Bird in the US for Best Short Wine List; No.5 Wine Bar in France for Best By-the-Glass Wine List; Restaurant André in Asia for Best Designed Wine List and Emirates claimed Best Airline List in the World.

On the awards, World of Fine Wine Editor Neil Beckett commented « This year we saw the strongest level of entries yet, in terms of both quality and quantity, and the introduction of the Champions’ League and exciting new categories such as Best Regional List and Best Spirits List are a reflection of the rise in standards in wine programs all over the world. »

The World of Fine Wine World’s Best Wine Lists 2017 Winners
Full results can be found at
http://www.worldoffinewine.com/subject/about-winelistawards

Best Long Wine List in the World
Rouge Tomate

Best Medium-Size Wine List in the World
Formento’s

Best Short Wine List in the World
Charlie Bird

Best Regional Wine List in the World
The Yeatman

Best Champagne & Sparkling Wine List in the World
Pix Patisserie

Best Dessert & Fortified Wine List in the World
Bern’s Steakhouse

Best Spirits List in the World
The Barn at Blackberry Farm

Best By-the-Glass Wine List in the World
no. 5 Wine Bar

Best Wine Bar List in the World
No. 5 Wine Bar

Best hotel Wine List in the World       
The Barn at Blackberry Farm

Most Original Wine List in the World
Momofuku-Ko 

Best Designed Wine List in the World
Restaurant André

Best Airline List in the World
Emirates

Best Cruise Line/Ship List in the World
The World

The World’s Best Wine Lists Champions’ League
Best Overall
Palais Coburg

Best Champagne & Sparkling Wine List
Eleven Madison Park

Best Dessert and Fortified Wine List
Robuchon au Dôme

Best Sprits List
Eleven Madison Park

Best By-the-Glass Wine List
Eleven Madison Park

Notes to editors

The World’s Best Wine Lists is the most prestigious and rigorous wine list awards, judging over 4,500 restaurants lists worldwide. World of Fine Wine assembled a panel of some of the world’s greatest experts, including Masters of Wine and a World Champion Sommelier, to guarantee the credibility and integrity of the competition and to put each submitted list through an intensive judging process.

All award-winning wine lists must reach certain standards in relation to a range of criteria, among which the most important are: the breadth, depth, interest, quality, and value of the wine selection (relative to the nature and size of the list and any specialism); the clarity of the organization and presentation; the accuracy and completeness of the information for each entry on the list, including origin, producer, wine, vintage, price, and format or serving size; the suitability of the selection in terms of the cuisine and the establishment.

Find out more about the World’s Best Wine Lists here.

About Octavian Wine Vaults

Octavian Wine Vaults is the finest wine cellarage service you will find, and is brought to you by Octavian. Octavian has been delivering fine wine storage excellence for more than 20 years. Our expertise is trusted by the leading wine merchants, wine funds, and restaurants, as well as by 10,000 collectors worldwide. We take the time to understand the needs of our customers, and offer them tailor-made services. We have built an impeccable reputation by caring for our customers’ assets as if they were our own – it is a reputation we are proud to have achieved. It is this commitment that drove us to develop the world’s leading fine wine storage facility. Winemakers to wine lovers, investors to auctioneers – they all know that a wine cared for at Octavian’s Corsham Cellars is without equal. The Octavian Vaults service is delivered by our expert team at Corsham Cellars – a very special place, lying 100 feet below the hills of Wiltshire. Encased in solid Bath stone, it is an ideal facility for the cellaring of fine wine. Our attention to detail has rewarded us with an unrivalled reputation and considerable success. The next 20 years will be built on ongoing investment in our storage facilities and continued commitment to our customers.

Media Contact

Katherine Houston

Katherine.houston@worldoffinewine.com

T: +44 (0)20 3096 5703

Personal note : I imagine that the readers of my blog know that the best wine list in the world is mine. 😆

Some recent buys jeudi, 25 mai 2017

More and more I love to explore the unknown.

Three examples : one Champagne Moët & Chandon Grand Crémant Impérial Doux. The archivist of Moët says that this bottle was commercialised between 1941 and 1948. Crémant means that the pressure is weaker than for other champagne, giving a less active bubble, and « doux » means a very sweet champagne.

Champagne Théophile Roederer Extra Dry which means a sweet champagne, very probably from the twenties

Champagne Kruger & Cie 1966 Epernay totally unknown to me.

4000ème article que j’écris sur le blog samedi, 20 mai 2017

Cet article est le 4000ème article que j’écris sur le blog. C’est une étape. Pour marquer cette borne, pourquoi pas une anecdote ?

Au Salon du Vin de la Revue du Vin de France, j’ai pu bavarder avec quelques amateurs. L’un d’entre eux me dit : « il n’y a pas de jour sans que j’aille lire votre blog ». Et il me montre la photo d’une devise imprimée sur une tenture je crois qui figure à l’intérieur d’un restaurant de Margaux.

Cette devise dit :

« quel est le meilleur moment pour boire un vin ?

«  quand il est ouvert…

Et c’est signé François Audouze.

Je n’ai aucun souvenir d’avoir proféré quelque chose d’aussi définitif et je dirais plutôt aujourd’hui que le meilleur moment pour boire un vin c’est quand il est servi, car je préfère qu’il soit ouvert 4 à 5 heures avant qu’il ne soit servi.

Si le fidèle lecteur lit cet article et s’il m’envoie la photo, je serai heureux de l’inclure sur le blog.

Il l’a fait et voici les paroles définitives que j’aurais prononcées, inscrites au restaurant Le Savoy à Matgaux

Je ne pense pas que cela me vaudra une postérité définitive !!!

Dîner au restaurant La Méthode avec des polytechniciens jeudi, 18 mai 2017

Chaque élève de chaque promotion de Polytechnique vient en haut de la montagne Sainte-Geneviève, au sein de l’ancienne école, recevoir son bicorne lors d’une cérémonie où le nouveau reçoit ce couvre-chef des mains d’un ancien. C’est la remise des bicornes et tous les élèves sont en grand uniforme. Il y a bien sûr des discours dont celui d’un grand ancien. J’ai eu le privilège il y a quelques années de faire ce discours devant deux promotions et l’encadrement de l’école.

Une tradition s’est greffée sur celle-ci, un dîner qui réunit les « missaires » de toutes les promotions, au restaurant La Méthode, juste en face de l’entrée de l’école. Les missaires (abréviation de commissaires) sont un petit groupe de moins de dix personnes qui sont en charge de l’organisation des chahuts. Toutes les plaisanteries les plus farfelues sont créées par eux, comme de murer le bureau du général, rite classique, mais aussi comme d’autres moins appréciées, qui m’ont valu avec mes camarades missaires de passer deux mois dans la prison de l’école, puisqu’elle a un statut militaire. Nous nous retrouvons donc à une quarantaine de missaires de plusieurs promotions différentes autour de tables mélangeant jeunes et vieux. La cuisine du lieu est simple mais très convenable. Il m’a suffi de sentir le vin choisi pour que j’estime plus prudent de boire de la bière. Le contact que l’on peut avoir avec des jeunes polytechniciens dégourdis et souriants, qui sont en train de créer leur avenir et peut-être notre avenir, est un bain de jouvence que j’apprécie.