Archives de catégorie : billets et commentaires

Réflexions sur les vins de l’été samedi, 29 août 2009

Avec ma femme, nous avons passé deux mois dans le sud, pour recevoir essentiellement la famille directement proche, enfants et petits-enfants, et la famille lointaine que nous avons hébergée car elle a subi un grave accident, et parfois des amis.

Analyser ce qui a été ouvert m’intéresse, car cela renseigne sur mes goûts et leurs tendances à ce moment de ma vie.

Nous avons ouvert 61 flacons sur les deux mois correspondant à 74 bouteilles, du fait de 13 magnums, uniquement en champagne.

Le champagne a été de loin le privilégié de cet été, avec 27 flacons correspondant à 40 bouteilles. Plus de la moitié de ce qui a été bu est du champagne. Ce n’est pas un hasard, pour trois raisons :

en été, le champagne désaltère

le champagne est, du moins pour moi, beaucoup plus digeste

c’est une région du vin que j’explore de plus en plus pour ses qualités gastronomiques.

Hors champagne, deux régions monopolisent les vins de l’été :

le Rhône avec 14 vins

la Provence avec 12 vins

Les autres régions sont les parents pauvres, avec 3 bordeaux, 2 bourgognes, et 3 vins divers.

Le choix peut s’expliquer ainsi :

la Provence, car c’est dans leur région que ces vins sont nettement meilleurs à boire, avec des arômes naturellement en beauté dans leur habitat

le Rhône, car aujourd’hui, c’est, pour les vins actuels, ma région préférée.

Je pressens évidemment ces tendances, mais l’analyse permet de mieux situer les hiérarchies qui se créent de façon inconsciente.

Une sélection de 22 vins parmi les plus intéressants bus cet été. Le classement est approximativement celui du plaisir. Mais tous ont été passionnants :

Champagne Krug 1982

Chevalier-Montrachet Bouchard Père & Fils 1998

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rayas 1995

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Château de Beaucastel 1989

Côte Rôtie La Turque Guigal 2005

Champagne Dom Ruinart rosé magnum 1990

Côte-Rôtie La Mouline Guigal 1996

Champagne Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs en magnum 1995

Champagne Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill en magnum 1998

Champagne Bollinger Grande Année 1989

Château Laville Haut-Brion 1979

Rimauresq Côtes-de-Provence 1989

Rimauresq Côtes-de-Provence 1990

Château Pibarnon Bandol 1990

Champagne Salon magnum 1995

Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol rouge 1995

Côte Rôtie La Landonne Guigal 2005

Ermitage « le Pavillon », Chapoutier 1989

Champagne Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle magnum

Champagne Dom Pérignon 1995

Champagne Henriot 1996

Champagne Clos des Goisses Philipponnat en magnum 1990

Il y a eu beaucoup d’autres vins intéressants, mais ceux-ci représentent des plaisirs qui ont ensoleillé notre été.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck mis en cave en 1997 dimanche, 16 août 2009

Champagne Charles Heidsieck mis en cave en 1997 et dégorgé en 2000. Magnifique champagne de grande stature, qui constitue une très heureuse surprise. Riche, plein ensoleillé, il apporte précision et longueur. C’est un moment fort agréable.

J’ai ouvert ce champagne pour fêter la femme de mon cousin qui fut très gravement brulée et poursuit sa convalescence dans un hôpital à deux pas de ma maison du sud.

C’est sa première sortie. Elle a trempé ses lèvres, car le cocktail de médicaments n’autorise pas plus.

Salon 1997 – suite samedi, 15 août 2009

Le lendemain, le reste du Salon 1997 marque un considérable progrès. Je révise mon jugement, car j’ai trouvé ce que j’aime en Salon. Ce vin mérite une ouverture quelques heures avant de le servir, car il y trouvera une plénitude plus grande.

Un vin de terrassier samedi, 25 juillet 2009

Les pluies diluviennes de l’hiver, d’un volume inconnu de mémoire d’homme, ont raviné notre jardin. Il a fallu consolider le mur sur la mer. J’ai pris un architecte qui a recouru à la compétence d’un ingénieur béton. Les premiers sondages ne lui plaisant pas, il a demandé l’avis d’un géologue. La conjonction de ces trois conseillers, avec une sauce épaisse de principe de précaution, transforme notre jardin en bunker de la seconde guerre mondiale.

Voyant une population nombreuse envahir notre nid douillet pendant les vacances, avec force engins aux sons inharmonieux, crée forcément des liens.

Le terrassier en chef possède une vigne en Côtes de Provence qui est exploité par son père en biodynamie. Gentiment il m’apporte un Côtes de Provence rosé et un Côtes de Provence rouge en disant : « j’aimerais votre avis. Je pense qu’il sera sur votre blog ».

Après l’avoir remercié, il me fallait goûter. Le rosé d’un joli rose pâle est affreusement bouchonné. Il ne sera pas possible de donner un avis, puisque le goût de bouchon ne disparaîtra pas. Le vin rouge est d’une couleur noire de jus de cassis. Le nez évoque le fruit mais aussi la feuille de cassis, que l’on retrouve aussi dans le goût. Ce vin est chaleureux, dense, extrêmement fruité, avec toutefois une petite note végétale. Ce qui me paraît curieux, c’est que le vin ne semble pas fini. Il est encore au stade du jus de fruit, plus qu’au stade du vin. Mais l’impression générale est très agréable. Il faudrait voir ce que ce vin riche donne en vieillissant.

De toute façon, c’est très généreux de m’avoir apporté ces flacons, après avoir traité ma pelouse façon crevasse martienne.

« mon » toaster vendredi, 24 juillet 2009

Pendant l’été, le journal « Le Figaro » interviewe des gens du monde du luxe et de la mode et leur demande l’objet qui ne les quitte jamais.

Vous ne devinerez jamais la réponse de Karl Lagerfeld.

Il répond : « mon toaster » car il tient absolument à la cuisson parfaite de ses toasts.

Je le dis tout net, je trouve cela génial.

Pierre Hermé, quand il est venu dîner chez moi, a ouvert son petit canif pour couper sa viande. Il y a une symbolique très forte dans le canif ou le Laguiole, qui sert d’outil universel, mais qui prend, pour la nourriture, des parcelles de sacré.

Ainsi, mon grand-père paternel avait pour coutume de faire un signe de croix avec son couteau de poche sur le pain avant d’en trancher quelques morceaux pour l’ensemble de la table.

Ce fétichisme du couteau est très compréhensible. Dans le cas du toaster, ce n’est pas du fétichisme mais – à mon sens – le luxe total.

Voici un homme qui a tout, qui peut demander tout, qui peut obtenir tout, mais qui dit, là où il arrive : « qu’on me fasse mes toasts sur ce toaster là ».

Génial. Cette expression de liberté pure me plait beaucoup.

Alban Charlin est né jeudi, 16 juillet 2009

Ce soir, ma fille Agathe a donné le jour à Alban Charlin.

Agathe se porte bien et sa voix au téléphone était tonique. Guillaume est un père comblé.

Pendant l’attente de plusieurs heures, ma femme avait la même anxiété que si elle devait accoucher.

Alban rejoint Inès, Félix, Anaïs et Lise pour devenir notre 5ème petit-enfant auxquels nous ajoutons dans nos coeurs Toscane, l’aînée de cette petite bande.

Vite, il faut fêter cette naissance.

Extase jeudi, 16 juillet 2009

Promenade en forêt. Dans des buissons, des mûres. Je cueille quelques mûres. Dans ma main, onze mûres.

Je les installe dans ma bouche, de telle façon qu’elles y soient confortables.

Utilisant mon palais et mes dents comme un pressoir, je déchiquète les mûres.

Comme aucune d’entre elles n’a le goût d’une autre, la variété des saveurs est une extase totale.

Je ne connais pas beaucoup de sensations gustatives plus fortes que celle-là, car les variations sont infinies.

C’est pour moi l’atteinte d’un Olympe du goût, plus complexe que le plus complexe des vins.

100 wines recently drunk, with some miracles mardi, 14 juillet 2009

I will try to describe some recent wines, using the “PIME – PAME – PUME” method. (see definitions hereafter).
At the beginning of the year, I posted a message concerning 76 wines. I will use the same method as in this message posted on the Robert Parker forum :

http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/showpost.php?p=2507155&postcount=1

I add the symbols of sizes for clothes (S, M, L, XL, XXL) to describe how much I disliked or adored a wine, compared to what I expected.

The wines are normally with an age above or equal to 50 years, but I have added some wines which were included in particular dinners.

There are 21 PUME (performing under my expectation), 25 PIME (performing within my expectation) and 54 PAME (performing above my expectation) which shows that I was particularly lucky and happy during this period of approximately 5 months (I have excluded the young wines, and the wines that I have already commented).

I wish you a pleasant read, and I add some other information at the end.
I begin with what I disliked to finish with the best. In each category it is ranked per year.

1 – 21 PUME

101 – PUME – XL – Anjou Caves Prunier Rablay 1928 – I have drunk many times this wine which can be very interesting. This one was tired and had not a great interest

102 – PUME – XLdemi-bouteille de Champagne Bollinger 1959 – sadly, this wine that a friend of mine opened only for me but that we shared with as many friends as it was possible to pour glasses, had an awful metallic taste

201 – PUME – LVin Nature de Champagne, Caves Prunier, vers années 1920 – This wine had interesting aspects. It is a still wine, rather bitter, which did not please me.

202 – PUME – LGrenache Vieux « Superior Quality » Années 30 – 1930 # – My friends were conquered by the unusual taste of this wine which evokes light Port wines. But for me, this wine could be so much better that I was displeased.

203 – PUME – LChâteau des Tuileries, Graves Supérieures 1941 – some traces exist of what it could have been. But this wine does not talk enough to excite my interest.

204 – PUME – LCoteaux du Layon Chaume, Château de la Guimonnière 1945 – really drinkable, but it did not give me enough emotion

301 – PUME – MBeaune Leroy 1953 – not bad, but not really great

302 – PUME – MChassagne Montrachet Moillard Grivot (Tasteviné en 1951) 1947 – too far from the taste of a Chassagne

401 – PUME – S – Château Sigalas-Rabaud 1896 – Many people were enthusiast about this wine as it was their first wine of the 19th century. But for me, it did not shine as I expected, as it is a wine that I have tried several times

402 – PUME – S – Grenache Vieux des années 20 – 1920 # – better than another bottle that I had opened recently, it is pleasant because it is very unusual. But this is not enough to give me a frank pleasure

403 – PUME – S – Château Brane-Cantenac 1921 – strange wine whose taste is good, but which corresponds to none of my references

404 – PUME – S – Chateau Pajot, enclave du Chateau d’Yquem, Haut-Sauternes 1923 – extremely subtle, giving much emotion. But I did not find what I expected from a very unusual wine

405 – PUME – S – Château Climens Barsac 1928 – The wine was great, but had not the charm that it can give. It is miles under a legendary Climens 1929 which was a pure treasure

406 – PUME – S – Volnay Champy P&F 1945 – not bad, but delivering not a great emotion.

407 – PUME – S – Châteauneuf du Pape Clos des Papes 1949 – drunk without food, this wine was a little fading. But with the sauce of a duck, the wine revealed very nice qualities. The bottom of the bottle offered me a nice deep wine, but it was not enough to have a full pleasure

408 – PUME – S – Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1953 – I expected a little more from this wine, even if it was good

409 – PUME – S – Corton-Charlemagne Bouchard Père & Fils en magnum 1955 – Of course it is a great wine. But I had to taste at the same time the 2007 of the same wine. And, despite my usual love for old wines, I preferred the spontaneousness of the very young CC.

410 – PUME – S – Grands Echézeaux Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1956 – nice DRC wine, but a little in shadow

411 – PUME – S – Vouvray sec Caves Prunier 1959 – not bad at all, but lacking a little structure and emotion. Created a good match with the food

412 – PUME – S – Hermitage La Chapelle Paul Jaboulet aîné 1978 – a good wine, but I have never had the emotion that I expect

413 – PUME – S – Côte Rôtie La Mouline Guigal 1990 – This perfect wine, which I adore as a symbol of the success of youth, drunk after some symbols like Pétrus 1959 or Latour 1953 appeared too young to be appreciated as it should. I still love it

2 – 25 PIME

501 – PIME Château Guiraud Sauternes 1893 – Very great wine, as great as I expected.

502 – PIME Nuits-Saint-Georges Camille Giroud 1928 – this wine that I drunk recently many times, using a lot that I have, is a real pleasure, and convinces about the success of 1928 even for very simple wines

503 – PIME Château Loubens Sainte Croix du Mont 1928 – for me it is not a surprise to see this wine so good, but for my guests it is a surprise

504 – PIME Rioja Federico Paternina 1928 – performs very well. The year is brilliant

505 – PIME Nuits-Saint-Georges Camille Giroud 1928 – as I know perfectly well this wine, exactly as the Nuits Cailles Morin 1915, I know in advance that it will be great. And it is a very understandable wine, which amazes everyone by its youth for eternity

506 – PIME Château Beychevelle en magnum 1928 – this wine offered by Bernard Pivot, a wonderful journalist talking about books and literature, the most famous in France in this field, had a lovely young colour, and was extremely lively, charming and balanced.

507 – PIME Nuits-Saint-Georges Camille Giroud 1928 – as I expected as usual a great wine, I had it. A very interested testimony of what a NSG can become when it was made in 1928

508 – PIME– Moulin à Vent Chanson Père et Fils 1945 – I expected an excellent Beaujolais. And it was what I wanted

509 – PIME Champagne Pommery Brut 1947 – The wine has lost its bubbles, but the impression of sparkling is inside the taste. More and more I love old champagnes which offer tastes which are out of this world.

510 – PIME Beaune Bressandes Joseph Drouhin 1955 – elegant, agreeable but not really great.

511 – PIME Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine de Montredon 1957 – Exactly as pleasant as I expected. A little simple.

512 – PIME Chateauneuf-du-Pape Bouchard et Cie 1959 # – a convenient Burgundy, with certainly an external input of sunny wine

513 – PIME Château Chalon Vichot-Girod de Névy-sur-Seille 1959 – a delicious vin jaune that I have paired with a magnum of Dom Pérignon 1966 and the combination of the two is to die for

514 – PIME Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles Boisseaux-Estivant négociant 1959 – a nice Puligny of a great year

515 – PIME Rioja Siglo Felix Azpilicueta Martinez 1959 – Nice wine, helped by the year

516 – PIME – – Meursault Auguste Prunier 1959 – This wine is very agreeable, not promising a lot, but bringing a very easy pleasure.

517 – PIME Château l’Angélus Pomerol 1961 – what is interesting is that this wine has been drunk as if it were the Saint-Emilion. We expected a lot, and we found a lot. This is a compliment for this Pomerol which performed at a level which it should not have. I put a PIME, as expecting "the" Angélus, I had the pleasure that I was looking for.

518 – PIME Château d’Yquem 1967 – I expected the best, and I had it. A very great academic Yquem, with a balance which is rare

519 – PIME Champagne Krug magnum Vintage 1973 – immense champagne, corresponding exactly to what I expected

520 – PIME Château Suduiraut Sauternes 1976 – Even if young, this wine has already a sympathetic perfection. All what it will get with age is already within its taste.

521 – PIME "Y" d’Yquem Graves blanc 1980 – I know very well this wine which is always generous. Genrally I love "Y" in good years, and this 1980 belongs to the good ones. It is really "generosity" which characterises this wine

522 – PIME Château Haut-Brion Graves blanc 1983 – drunk at the same time with the "Y" 1980, it shows an incredible contrast. This wine is precise and strict. This wine is perfectly made for gastronomy

523 – PIME Champagne Dom Ruinart rosé 1986 – I have a special inclination for this rosé, one of the best. Very long in mouth and specially deep for a rosé

524 – PIME Vosne Romanée Cros Parantoux Henri Jayer 1989 – I expected a perfect wine, and this wine is perfect. Made with a remarkable precision combined with charm. I prefer the unconventional approach of La Tache 1961 drunk at the same time

525 – PIME Champagne Salon 1995 – I know very well this champagne, and I see that it improves with time. It has a strong personality that I cherish.

3 – 54 PAME

601 – PAME – S – Vin inconnu (Pauillac ?) 1904 – This wine was brought by a friend. The bottle had the from of a Burgundy bottle, but it could be of any region. The year was possible. The wine was very nice and lively, and by adding our guesses, we decided that it would be a Pauillac 1904 of a great origin. A very lovable wine

602 – PAME – S – Chambolle Musigny Maison Remoissenet et Fils 1947 – I love that such wines prove that after 62 years, there is still a life for these wines. A very good demonstration

603 – PAME – S – Côte-Rôtie Audibert & Delas 1949 – Absolutely delicious, with an easy message, full of joy. Ruby colour, highly charming

604 – PAME – S – Clos René Pomerol 1950 – extremely nice surprise. Pomerol goes well in 1950

605 – PAME – S – Château Latour Pauillac 1953 – The colour is of a great youth. The delicacy of this wine for esthete is remarkable

606 – PAME – S – Bonnes-Mares Chanson Père & Fils 1955 – It is hard to imagine how such wines perform so well. It seems so easy.

607 – PAME – S – Château Sigalas Rabaud 1959 – I expected that it would be great. And it is. A purely solid Sauternes

608 – PAME – S – Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes 1959 – Good surprise to see this delicate Sauternes performing so well.

609 – PAME – S – Chevalier Montrachet Bouchard Père & Fils 1988 – extremely generous, gorgeous, a great wine full of pleasure

701 – PAME – MMalaga Larios solera 1866 – I was sceptic about such a Solera. But what is inside is really old. I would not be surprised that more than one half of this bottle contains wine of more than 100 years. The wine is delicious, and the subtlety of its pepper comes only from a great age. I have adored.

702 – PAME – MChâteau Guiraud Sauternes 1893 – It was a good surprise to see that this Guiraud of a magic year could give an emotion that I was not expecting at this level

703 – PAME – MCos Labory Saint-Estèphe 1928 – Nice performance. The wine is great and accomplished

704 – PAME – M – Château de Rolland Barsac 1929 – it is incredible how things look easy with such a wine. A pure pleasure

705 – PAME – MChateau Léoville-Poyferré Saint-Julien 1943 – juicy, generous, it is a wine without any problem, as if 1943 was only 15 years ago from today

706 – PAME – MChâteau Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac 1943 – The perfume of this wine is invading. All in it is softness and subtlety. It is the definition of a velvety wine. A great pleasure, above what I expected.

707 – PAME – MChâteau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1947 – after an awful smell, a delicious wine, full of body

708 – PAME – MChateauneuf-du-Pape Audibert & Delas 1949 – everything seems easy. Strong and sweet altogether. A nice wine

709 – PAME – MChambertin Joseph Drouhin 1949 – This wine is a miracle. It shows the best aspects of what Burgundy can be, with an endless charm.

710 – PAME – MChâteau Carbonnieux blanc 1953 – It is probably the best ever Carbonnieux white that I have drunk. The colour is magnificent and the complexity is remarkable. The final is mineral, delicate, salty. The fruit is great.

711 – PAME – MChâteau Pontet Grand Cru Saint-Emilion 1955 – excellent wine from a year which performs wonderfully

712 – PAME – MChampagne Krug Clos du Mesnil 1985 – If it were necessary to give a definition of refinement, this wine would be the one. All is elegant, precise, and of a unique charm. Salty with an oyster, it becomes rather sweet with caviar

713 – PAME – MCorton Charlemagne J.F. Coche-Dury 1996 – Even if I was expecting the best from this wine which I have had the chance to drink several times, I give a "PAME", as such a successful wine is always a surprise. The nose is the richest perfume, and in mouth, it is an invasion of pleasure. The combination with a foie gras made by Daniel Boulud was unforgettable

801 – PAME – LClos des Lambrays 1915 – all what has been made in Burgundy in 1915 is great. This rarity is a new demonstation

802 – PAME – LClos Vougeot Paul Dargent 1928 – This wine with a rather ordinary structure benefits from the wonderful year 1928. And it gives a broad pleasure. The colour does not show signs of age, the wine is generous, with a clear message. A great pleasure

803 – PAME – LAloxe-Corton 1929 – A friend of mine came by airplane from Paris to the South of France with this wine, brought it by car to the restaurant where we shared it. Opened at the last moment, this wine, with a provocative easiness, with no name of producer on the label, was insultingly wonderful. A dream.

804 – PAME – LChâteau Puyblanquet Saint-Emilion 1929 – It is impossible to imagine that this wine is 80 years old. It is great, precise, with velvet, charm and length.

805 – PAME – L – Belem‘s Malvoisie Vin de Madère 1934 – This wine is more than pure pleasure. It is great. And I adore such sensual wines, deep, and with an imperishable length.

806 – PAME – LChâteau Bensse Médoc 1936 – I would never have expected that a rather unknown wine of a very small year would give so much pleasure. The red is ruby. The wine is subtle.

807 – PAME – LChâteau La Mission Haut-Brion 1943 – As I was born in 1943, I have drunk many wines of this year, and my impression is that this Mission is the best Bordeaux 1943 that I have drunk. The colour is young, the nose is noble, and the densiity of this wine is rare. A very great wine, enlarged by a pigeon

808 – PAME – LPommard F.de Marguery 1947 – This wine which was paired with a Cros Parantoux of Henri Jayer 1986 had less perfection, but largely more charm, the Burgundian charm that I cherisch. With the bouillon of a chicken, it formed a legendary combination

809 – PAME – LChateauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Chartres 1947 – I fell in love with this ordinary wine. Serenity, simplicity, but a wonderful balance. I love such simplified wines when they perform so nicely.

810 – PAME – LCorton Cuvée du docteur Peste Hospices de Beaune Protheau 1953 – a marvel. It summarizes all what I like in Burgundy

811 – PAME – LChâteau Haut-Brion blanc 1953 – I thought I had opened a 1983 and I discovered on the cork : 1953. What a nice surprise ! The wine is absolutely glorious. One of the best white Haut-Brion that I have ever drunk. Totally balanced, rich, complete, unctuous and charming.

812 – PAME – LChâteau La Gaffelière Naudes 1959 – this wine "is" perfection. This could be the definition of what Bordeaux should be

813 – PAME – LChâteau Canon 1959 – This wine has a military structure. It is a wine which has a perfect constitution. Strict, of a great intensity it does not neglect to be charming.

814 – PAME – L La Tâche Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1961 – All in this wine is perfection. It is complicated and complex, and kaleidoscopic. It is incredibly truffle, and when drinking, I had the impression to chew a truffle, but not only that, as notes of roses arouse. The final is incredible

901 – PAME – XLChypre Commandaria Ferré 1845 – I am not rigorous enough, because I should put a "PIME" to this wine, which has the ultimate perfection, my best ever wine. But it is so great that I rank it within the PAME.

902 – PAME – XLChypre Commandaria 1845 – This one is greater that the Ferré, with candied oranges, when the Ferré has more pepper and liquorice

903 – PAME – XLChâteau Latour 1928 – It is certainly one of the greatest Latour that I have ever drunk. When I drink it, I feel gravity, and I fall in meditation, to try to catch every piece of the message of this extremely complex and perfect wine. Coming from the cellar of my son, it has even more value for me.

904 – PAME – XLVolnay Clos des Santenots Domaine Prieur 1945 – I would never have expected such a glorious wine. It shows perfection

905 – PAME – XLChâteau Suduiraut 1947 – an extraordinary performance of an immense wine. It gives a feeling of perfection

906 – PAME – XLChâteau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1947 – It is most certainly the best Pichon Comtesse that I have ever drunk. In my glass, I have what I would consider as the ideal taste of a Bordeaux wine. 1947 could represent now the ideal taste for a wine for me, as 1928 and 1929 were my ideal twenty years ago.

907 – PAME – XL – Château de Fargues Sauternes 1955 – Immediately, when I sip it, I think of Yquem 1955, a glorious Yquem. This one is different and has grace and elegance. It is charming and subtle.

908 – PAME – XLPuligny Montrachet maison Pierre Ponnelle 1957 – who would expect from that wine to give such an emotion. We were amazed to see that

909 – PAME – XLChâteau Bédat, Podensac, Graves Supérieures 1959 – I love such miracles. This sweet wine which I have certainly bought for less than $5 performs divinely. Charming, agreeable, this wine, when one accepts that it has not the structure of an Yquem, brings a great pleasure, as age gives a specific charm.

910 – PAME – XLBâtard-Montrachet Chanson Père & Fils 1959 – I think this wine is perfect. The colour is pure gold. It is extremely serene. A great wine

911 – PAME – XLRiesling Hugel Sélection de Grains Nobles 1976 – This wine which I received as a gift of the regretted Jean Hugel looks like Jean : a lesson of elegance, race and perfection. Even if rich, this wine as a unique airiness. It is the demonstration of what Alsace can create.

1001 – PAME – XXLChâteau Rayne-Vigneau Sauternes 1916 – I have rarely smelled such a tantalizing perfume. It is not necessary to drink, as the scent captures my brain. Honey, caramel and candied fruits are generously combined in this wonderful wine which has given me a unique sensation : the freshness evokes menthol, which is fabulous.

1002 – PAME – XXLChampagne Mumm Cordon Vert années 1920 # – This wine was included in the lot that I have bought with 11 Lafite 1900, 12 Sigalas Rabaud 1896 and so on. This Mumm will be present in my paradise. It could belong in the top 20 of all the greatest champagnes that I have drunk. I have had a physical shock when I drank it.

1003 – PAME – XXLChâteau Haut-Brion 1923 – This wine justifies completely the trip that I make along the years, opening the glorious and famous years and also the more discrete years. Because this Haut-Brion 1923 is perfect. Generous, it is absolutely not handicapped by this year and could compete with the greatest ones.

1004 – PAME – XXLChambertin J. Faiveley Tasteviné 1949 – drinking this wine after Pétrus 1959, I thought that it would be difficult. But in fact, this wine summarises exactly what a perfect Burgundy should be. Drunk with Chinese people for whom 1949 is an important year, the pleasure was more intense. This wine has youth, charm, velvet, perfection.

1005 – PAME – XXLCorton Charlemagne Bouchard Père & Fils 1953 – When opening the wine, I have rarely experienced such a stinky smell. But five hours later not any ugly trace remained, and this wine is purely shining at a rare level. My friends and I we voted for this wine as first of the wine of a dinner with eleven wines. This wine is pure happiness.

1006 – PAME – XXL – Champagne Salon Mesnil sur Oger 1959 – drunk several times, this one was largely above every other, and justifies the legend

1007 – PAME – XXLPétrus Pomerol 1959 – drunk several times, this one was significantly above others. This wine explains perfectly why Pétrus has such fame.

As this ranking is made by comparison with my expectation, it is highly relative. So, I needed to add something. I gave notes to some wines which I consider as particularly brilliant. I gave notes only to some of them :

100 – Chypre Commandaria Ferré 1845
100 – Chypre Commandaria 1845
100 – Champagne Mumm Cordon Vert années 1920 #
100 – Corton Charlemagne Bouchard Père & Fils 1953
100 – Champagne Salon Mesnil sur Oger 1959
100 – Pétrus Pomerol 1959

99 – Corton Charlemagne J.F. Coche-Dury 1996
99 – Chambertin J. Faiveley Tasteviné 1949

98 – Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1947
98 – Château Rayne-Vigneau Sauternes 1916

97 – Champagne Krug magnum Vintage 1973
97 – Riesling Hugel Sélection de Grains Nobles 1976
97 – Champagne Krug Clos du Mesnil 1985

96 – Château Haut-Brion blanc 1953
96 – Château Latour 1928
96 – Château Suduiraut 1947
96 – Château Haut-Brion 1923

95 – Château d’Yquem 1967
95 – Vosne Romanée Cros Parantoux Henri Jayer 1989
95 – Clos des Lambrays 1915
95 – Château La Gaffelière Naudes 1959
95 – La Tâche Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1961
95 – Château de Fargues Sauternes 1955

94 – "Y" d’Yquem Graves blanc 1980
94 – Château Haut-Brion Graves blanc 1983
94 – Champagne Salon 1995
94 – Château Latour Pauillac 1953
94 – Château Guiraud Sauternes 1893

93 – Chevalier Montrachet Bouchard Père & Fils 1988
93 – Château Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac 1943
93 – Chambertin Joseph Drouhin 1949
93 – Belem’s Malvoisie Vin de Madère 1934
93 – Volnay Clos des Santenots Domaine Prieur 1945

92 – Château Canon 1959

90 – Château Carbonnieux blanc 1953

Of course, as I am not used to notations, this is only an indication. But these wines were absolutely successful when I drank them. Sorry for this long message, but I hope that you have found interest in some of this information.

Damned mercredi, 17 juin 2009

Comme beaucoup de jeunes, j’ai découvert le mot « damned » dans Tintin en Amérique.

Et ce mot dit bien ce qu’il veut dire.

Bernard Pivot m’a fait l’extrême plaisir de me faire comprendre qu’il aime lire mes bulletins. Leur lyrisme l’étonne.

Aussi, lorsque dans son dictionnaire amoureux du vin Bernard Pivot dit de moi : « c’est le Bossuet des vieux flacons », tel le corbeau de la fable qui ne se sent plus de joie, j’ai imaginé qu’il me voyait en aigle de Meaux ou de mots, en brillant orateur, brillant prêcheur.

Hélas, mille fois hélas, ce n’était pas ça. Bernard pensait que mon rapport aux vins anciens était, au mieux, une sorcellerie qui faisait ressusciter des vins cliniquement morts, au pire un lyrisme aveugle qui me poussait à déclarer vivants des vins défunts.

Et j’ai compris que ce que Bernard Pivot avait retenu de Bossuet, ce n’était pas le talent d’orateur mais les sujets, les oraisons funèbres et l’art d’imaginer vivants des cadavres largement post mortem.

J’étais donc celui qui croyait voir dans des encéphalogrammes plats des réminiscences de vibrations.

Je croyais que Bernard me voyait en Martin Luther King de l’armée des vins anciens. Il me voyait en aboyeur de cimetière.

Chaque fable a sa morale.

Si je déchante (tout est relatif) en découvrant l’image que Bernard avait de moi, je bois mon miel en sachant que Bernard vient de découvrir que mes propos recouvrent une vérité.

Une piqure de rappel s’impose au plus vite.  Car le corbeau ne veut plus lâcher son fromage.

Bernard, ce récent dîner appelle une confirmation.

Le Marché de l’Excellence de Marie-France Garcia-Parpet mardi, 9 juin 2009

Dans un message récent, j’avais parlé d’un livre « le marché de l’excellence », qui donne de mon expérience une dimension dynastique qui me semble totalement contraire à la réalité.

Je n’ai pas envoyé la lettre que j’avais rédigée en projet.

Voir à cette adresse :

http://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/archives/1958-un-livre-Le-marche-de-lexcellence-donne-a-mon-experience-une-dimension-dynastique.html

J’ai rencontré l’auteur.

Discussion très intéressante avec l’auteur lors d’un déjeuner.

C’est une chercheuse, donc quand je lui ai demandé le message de son livre, elle dit que ce n’est pas son rôle.

Son rôle est d’exposer des situations, de poser des questions et c’est aux acteurs d’en tirer ce qui peut leur être utile.

Nous avons plus parlé de vin et de son livre, mais aussi de bourdieuseries que de mon cas, car elle a très rapidement admis qu’impressionnée par le récit dans mon livre des repas gargantuesques chez mes grands-parents, elle en avait induit un niveau social qui ne correspondait en rien à la réalité. Elle m’a dit que si son livre est réédité ou traduit elle changera toute cette partie de son livre, ce que je ne lui demande pas, mais j’apprécie.

Nous avons parlé de sujets possibles dans le cadre de ses recherches sur le vin. Car je lui ai suggéré quelques idées qui pourraient donner lieu à publication. Ce fut un déjeuner très agréable et elle a beaucoup apprécié que j’aie décidé de la rencontrer pour que nous nous expliquions.

Une précision : nous avons bu de l’eau !