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An interesting film on my cellar and my dinners vendredi, 3 mars 2017

The article and the video on Men’s Up.

The article is in French, but here is the text of what is presented :

http://www.mensup.fr/gastronomie/wine-dinners-francois-audouze-vins-d-exception-alcool-137665

Francois Audouze has an eye that sparkles, assuredly this man is happy. We are in one of those beautiful Parisian houses he likes, the Taillevent. He is a little home here, as he is with many other great chefs with whom he has worked for years to develop his outstanding Wine dinners.

The principle ? Ten guests, a sumptuous dinner and ten old wines – even very old ones – coming from his cellar. He is expecting his guests this evening for the 205th edition of his « Wine Dinners », opening the bottles to be tasted this evening: Château Haut-Brion 1979, Corton Blanc Jacqueminot 1919, Vosne-Romanée Antonin Rodet 1947, Gevrey Chambertin Maison PhilippeJarrot 1947, Clos Gamot Cahors 1893, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chartron 1928, Chateau Gilette 1945, Chateau Filhot 1928 … Evidently we do not talk about the champagnes that will be opened as an aperitif. All these bottles come straight out of François Audouze’s cellar. A cellar as there are few, a cellar that defies superlatives. « It is an old wine cellar, » explains François Audouze, « it is essentially French and has of nearly evry vintage. There are between 35,000 and 40,000 bottles, and for those over 50 years of age, there must be about 10,000 « . Almost 8,000 lines of cellar, François Audouze does not take the exact account. « I have no ambition to have the largest cellar but I probably have the most diverse. »

François Audouze is an autodidact of wine, a collector by chance. If the cellar of this old industrialist has nowadays bottles as old as rare, it is by grace of an encounter with a wine. « I started entering wines in my cellar in 1970. At first I knew absolutely nothing about it, it was by fumbling and asking the advice of my wine merchant that I started. One day a friend talked about a grocer who was opening some crazy bottles on the Friday night after the office, and I said, « Well, we’re going! « It was with the blind tasting of a Climens of 1923 that everything began: » I almost fell backwards, « says Audouze, » it was so much more complex than anything I had tasted. It was then that I knew that my way was the old wines. « 

For François Audouze, the doors of a world are opening up. The impetuous youth loses its attraction in the face of the subtlety of a wine polished by time, which reveals itself with delicacy. Contrary to popular belief, a wine does not die. Finally not always. « Everyone is convinced that a wine dies, and Robert Parker has reinforced this idea with his concept of a maturity plateau when it is completely false, the proof is that my greatest white wine is a Montrachet from 1865. So where is the maturity of this wine? Death comes mainly from the cork, and as soon as the cork no longer plays its role, there is evaporation and denaturation of the contents. François Audouze, if he is now known as a collector, does not quite recognize the logic that traditionally prevails in the elaboration of a collection: he follows his intuition more than his reason. « These are just buying led by my heart. Everything I buy is made to be drunk, not to be stored. »

Few people can boast of having tasted wines as old and as many vintages: 174 to be precise. François Audouze’s record includes more than 14,000 wines, discovered on the occasion of meals, which he records every detail on a blog with lyrical and loving accents. No one, it is said, writes as well on wine. The man is above all an Epicurean. It is only to see with what delight – even jubilation – he observes, hume, savors and speaks of what he eats or drinks to understand that for him, the good bottles are made to be opened and especially shared. The circle of friends no longer enough, he created the « Wine Dinners ». « Having a lot of wines, I created a structure that sells dinners. It’s not for profit, but for people to have access to my wines, » explains François Audouze. « It is not a tasting, it is a meal, the recipes are made to go with my wines, there is a quest for perfect food and wine, my role is to tell people to forget everything of what they have been drinking before. « It is a new experience, instead of judging, they will try to understand. »

For this 205th dinner, François Audouze teamed up with chef Alain Solivérès. Both men are used to working together. Dinner will start with two champagnes, a Lanson of 1971 and a Salon of 1988 on a Gillardeau oyster in sea water jelly. Dinner will then be placed under the sign of the hunt: bar of line, pheasant, roasted pigeon And hare with a spoon. « The chief must have the humility to put himself at the service of the wine. To go with the old wines, it is necessary to simplify the recipes. » Whether it is the choice of wines or recipes, everything comes from a game of subtle correspondence. « When I create a dinner, I am like the painter who creates a painting, every dinner is a creation of the moment. And there is always a coherence: two champagnes, two dry white wines, two Bordeaux, two burgundies and ends up with two sweets.  » Famous labels and more modest wines come together without complex. The dean, a Cahors Clos de Gamot dates from 1893. A canonical age that would have earned him a probable death if François Audouze had not opened it according to a method perfected by his care. « If I did not invent it, I have largely contributed to make known the method of slow oxygenation.If one oxygenates extremely quickly a wine, as when one carafe it, one will kill it. Wine is opened and is left alone for four to five hours, there will be a slow oxygenation work that will eliminate the small olfactory impurities, evaporate the bad molecules, and all of a sudden you will have an opulent wine ready to drink. Beyond 25 years, I recommend that you open a wine for four to five hours before and do not touch anything. « 

A little intimidated at their arrival, the guests quickly take the game. Whether you are a connoisseur or a simple curious epicurean, François Audouze makes no distinction. He takes his guests by the hand following a true ritual, to the discovery of this world that he made his own. He gives them before the beginning of the meal some precious advice to make the most of the dinner « We drink slowly, we eat slowly. » If you swallow your glass or your dish all at once, you will have little opportunity to see the relevance of the combinations that we wanted to offer you. François Audouze: « We do not judge a wine, we try to understand it, we are humble in relation to wine. » And he concluded with a broad smile raising his glass: « The last rule: we are here to have fun! »

Compliments d’Aubert de Villaine lundi, 26 septembre 2016

Il convient de garder la tête froide, mais quand même…

Aubert de Villaine, gérant du domaine de la Romanée Conti m’avait adressé des lettres de compliments, lors de la parution de mon livre sur le vin, lors de mon 500ème bulletin et en d’autres occasions.

Ces lettres privées restent privées.

Mais là, cette vidéo très courte (1’22 ») peut être vue.

Je ne suis pas dupe, car ce compliment n’est pas justifié, même si Aubert de Villaine est tout sauf flatteur.

Mais ça fait plaisir quand même.

Il faut mettre le son très fort pour bien entendre.

https://youtu.be/TWDuxFvDH3g

Bon, il faut garder la tête froide, mais c’est quand même un cadeau inouï qui m’est fait.

dsc07446

films sur Youtube lundi, 26 septembre 2016

Le 1er film parle de la « méthode Audouze » pour ouvrir les vins, qui est essentielle pour que les vins se présentent idéalement au moment du dîner

 

le film 3 sur la philosophie des dîners explique pourquoi les dîners ont la forme que j’ai choisie

le film 2 raconte le 200ème dîner

le film 4 donne quelques témoignages des participants du 200ème dîner

ces quatre films donnent une bonne idée sur ce que sont les dîners de wine-dinners avec les vins de ma collection

 

films on Youtube vendredi, 16 septembre 2016

I took the occasion of the 200th dinner to make small films about some subjects like the method of opening old wines, the philosophy of my dinners and so on.

 

The film 1 shows the « Audouze method » which is crucial to have the old wines showing their best.

 

The film 3 explains why I chose the format of my dinners

The film 2 shows the 200th dinner

The film 4 gives some testimonials of participants of the 200th dinner

 

 

method for opening old bottles lundi, 12 mai 2014

The pictures have been taken in chateau de Saran where the 100th dinner of wine-dinners was held.

There was a photographer who took these pictures. It is an opportunity to explain my method to open old bottles.

The pictures below show the tools that I use, consisting mainly in normal corkscrews used by sommeliers, and in long spirals which are the inside tool of manual screwpull.

When you pull out the upper part of the capsule, remember that some capsules (here Pétrus 1953) are pieces of art. Think of keeping them as a memory

I use the sommelier corkscrew to lift the cork by only 2 to 5 millimetres. You can see on the right the two spirals on the table.

It is important that the spiral stays in the centre of the cork. Turn it slowly. It will go inside the cork and the end of the spiral will go further, but will not touch the wine.

Jean Berchon, the director for communication and estates of the Moët & Chandon Group looks at me with a great attention

Once again, quietness is required

These pictures below are very important, as they show how I use my hands to lift, having only my left hand to help the right hand to pull. The right thumb pushes hard on my left hand, and my other fingers make a lateral move to pull.

While pulling on the cork of Pétrus 1953, I show that the cork will break into pieces and I will try to lift every piece. Which I did !

This tool called “ahso” (in French : “bilame”), is something that I do not use, because I am confident in this method of lifting in two times : 2 to 5 millimetres with the sommelier’s corkscrew, and then lifting the cork with a spiral.

The second spiral is ready to be used if, by lifting some pieces stick to the glass. They will come when they are pulled extremely slowly.

 

One could think : is it so important to work so carefully, with these two steps. Let us have a look.

I was not able to take the upper part of the capsule of Pétrus 1953 complete.

This is Margaux 1959

This is Romanée Conti 1972

Not the slightest piece of cork fell in the wine for each of the wines opened with this method.

mes outils pour ouvrir les bouteilles dimanche, 20 avril 2014

DSC08422

le tirebouchon de gauche ne sert que pour enlever la capsule, avec éventuellement l’aide du couteau

les deux limonadiers classiques soulèvent les bouchons de quelques millimètres

les deux longues mèches soulèvent lentement le bouchon. Il y en a deux car parfois il faut intervenir très vite si le la première ne lève que des morceaux

les deux outils de droite servent à réparer les dégâts éventuels

émission sur radio courtoisie à propos de mon livre mercredi, 25 décembre 2013

Il est possible d’écouter cette interview de 90 minutes sur Radio Courtoisie jusqu’au 20 janvier maximum

Il faut aller sur www.radiocourtoisie.radio.fr  et sur cette page il faut cliquer sur « aller sur le site de la station »

aller sur le site de la station

une fois sur le site de la radio, on fait dérouler le menu des émissions et l’on choisit celle du 21/12 « Journal des Lycéens »

émission F Audouze sur Radio Courtoisie

La France de l’Excellence – livre de François Audouze dimanche, 24 novembre 2013

Le vin est ma passion mais je suis aussi citoyen. Excédé de voir mon pays s’enfoncer dans le déclin par l’irréalisme de toutes les politiques où la démagogie et les bons sentiments ont exonéré de la nécessité de gérer, j’ai écrit un livre, « La France de l’Excellence« , pour décrire non pas ce que l’on peut faire, mais ce que l’on doit faire.

Ce livre est brutal, car les mesures présentées paraîtront impossibles. Mais ce que l’on sait, c’est que si l’élection présidentielle de 2017 se joue, comme en 2012, sur la démagogie, le pays est définitivement perdu.

Ce livre est un avertissement sur ce qu’il faut faire avec courage en impliquant l’ensemble des citoyens.

On ne discutera pas de ce livre sur ce blog, car ce n’est pas l’objet d’y parler de politique.

Mais je ne veux pas cacher l’existence de ce cri du cœur adressé à mon pays.

Il sera disponible cette semaine dans les librairies et sur les sites marchands.

La France de l’Excellence, Editions du Rocher.

la France de l'Ecellence 001 - Copie

Vous m’avez posé une question sur la valeur et/ou la vente de vins que vous possédez mardi, 24 janvier 2012

Vous m’avez posé une question sur la valeur et/ou la vente de vins que vous possédez

Sur mon site www.wine-dinners.com ou sur mon blog www.academiedesvinsanciens.org, vous avez posé une question sur la valeur d’un ou plusieurs vins, et éventuellement sur les moyens de les vendre.

Je voudrais d’abord vous remercier d’estimer que mon avis pourrait être compétent.

Je suis acheteur de vins anciens pour ma cave, mais je ne suis pas un expert en évaluations. C’est un métier. Je ne suis pas professionnel de l’évaluation. Par ailleurs, si j’achète beaucoup de vins, c’est le fruit d’envies, de coups de cœur où la raison n’est pas toujours présente.

Aussi, pour avoir une évaluation de vins, je vous suggère d’aller sur www.idealwine.com ou de vous adresser à l’expert d’un commissaire priseur. En achetant la revue « la Gazette de l’hôtel Drouot », vous trouverez les adresses d’un nombre élevé de maisons de ventes aux enchères de vins et de leurs experts.

Etant acheteur, je peux être intéressé par certains de vos vins, mais je ne souhaite pas faire de propositions. Je souhaite en recevoir, après que vous aurez reçu l’évaluation d’un professionnel.

Pour vendre vos vins, s’ils ont un intérêt pour des collectionneurs, je peux vous recommander des personnes qui me vendent du vin.

Régis Fleischer [wineart2020@yahoo.fr] 06 62 62 53 97

Philippe Roux [phroux@sodivin.com] (06) 72 869 263

Clos & Chateaux-Guillaume Soulier [guillaumesoulier@orange.fr] 06 20 63 64 79

GARY BOURGINE [gbourgine@yahoo.fr] (06) 86 45 53 44

Juan Carlos Casas [jccvins@gmail.com] (06).62.70.21.06

Gordon Wilson [gwilson@vins-rares.fr] (06) 78 73 49 72

Vladimir Kauffmann [lesvinsdelamiral@yahoo.fr] (06) 60 05 15 77

Vous pouvez les contacter si vos bouteilles sont de provenance et d’années qui présentent de l’intérêt.

Une remarque importante : sauf dans le cas de bouteilles très rares, la valeur gustative de vins anciens est généralement très supérieure à leur valeur financière, ce qui veut dire que le même vin, beaucoup plus jeune, est souvent beaucoup plus cher, et n’apporte souvent pas autant de plaisir.

Bon succès dans vos recherches.

François Audouze