I had been charmed recently by the cook of Christian Le Squer in Ledoyen, so I was afraid that a new try would be less emotional. My wife suggested that we invite friends for a dinner and I reserved there. As I write a bulletin which was sent to the director of the restaurant, I arrived before the others, welcomed as if I were Richard Gere entering a boarding school for young girls. If I arrived earlier, it is because my wife does not like that I spend time reading the wine list. I ordered the wines, and they arrived.
We begin with a champagne Gosset 1999. It is a champagne which has a very expressive taste. We had it with the “amuse bouche” made of four different pieces of a very clever and sophisticated cook, but I had an idea. I asked that each of us we receive an oyster. And the combination is magical. Since I have discovered this combination, I try to get it as often as I can.
We had an incredible menu. I write it in French :
Oursins de roche en coque à l’avocat, soufflé de corail rafraîchi
Grosses langoustines bretonnes croustillantes, émulsion d’agrumes à l’huile d’olive
blanc de turbot de ligne juste braisé, pommes rattes écrasée à la fourchette et montées au beurre de truffe
anguille fumée sur toasts brûlés à la lie de vin
carré de chevreuil, réduction d’une poivrade relevée de griottes
croquant de pamplemousse cuit et cru au citron vert
soufflé passion à l’ananas épicé, sorbet litchi
chocolat noir en fines feuilles croustillantes au lait de pistache glacé.
We had the urchin (delicious and airy) with “Y” d’Yquem 1985. I had this wine the last time I came, and as I adore this wine, I ordered it. And I did well. This wine is incredible. Such a personality, such a charm is incredible. But what is even better, it changes its personality by every combination with food. Kaleidoscopic, this wine amazed me by every sip. I adore this wine above many others due to its semi sweet discrete attitude behind the dry wine. And 20 years advantage this wine.
I had ordered a few hours before a Clos de Vougeot domaine Méo Camuzet 1998. This Clos de Vougeot has been the first wine that I had drunk of the Domaine, which made me adore the domaine. Since that, Jean Nicolas Méo became a friend. Of course, 1998 is young, but with air the wine broadened. And if it was not appropriate with the eel, it was fantastic with the roe-deer. A very pleasant wine, but it is not so good to drink it so young. It has many qualities and represents a nice form of the present Burgundies.
The cook of Christain Le Squer was fabulous, and the fact that I was pleased as the first time represents a very good point.
He cooks very naturally. It is extremely well built and realised, but it is mature, with no need to show.
Perfect on every course, I appreciate a lot. And I recommend the place.
But for my eyes, the star of the night (after my wife of course) is the “Y” d’Yquem 1985.