Visit to Chateau Margauxsamedi, 11 mars 2006

After the dinner by Yquem, I went to meet Paul Pontallier in Chateau Margaux.
We tasted the Margaux 2004 : the nose is of spice, leather and the powder for make-up. In mouth, I find it in a closed phase.
The Margaux 2003 is a contrary. It has the greatest possible feminin charm. Absolutely sexy.
Having read the book "the Perfume" by Patrick Süskind on the impossible search for the perfect perfume, what I think immediately is that the nose of this Margaux 2003 is the one of the skin of a beloved woman. In mouth, the sensuality of Margaux explodes. I am not able to predict what it will be in 20 years. But for me, today, it is a pure devil buying your soul.

To drink a Pavillon blanc de Chateau Margaux 2005 looks like trying to discover the beauty of a Muslim woman wearing a burka. Lots of aromas, which is classical for well made white wines. But what to say ? More fruity than the Smith Haut Lafitte white 2005. Not more to say.

We arrive by ‘le lion d’or’, a restaurant that I did not know but that I recommand : the meat has a quality which is incredible. The chef is a nice man, easy, talkative. A pleasure.

I had brought for Paul to share with him a Riesling Zind Humbrecht 1983. We had it on "charcuterie", and it was absolutely impressive. Citrus fruit, artichoke, prunes, and a way of filling the mouth which has a lot of charm. A truly great wine.
On the lamb of Pauillac, we drank Margaux 1989 and Margaux 1990 from halves bottled originally in due time. So, no samples, original filling.
Paul wanted to check with me how we judge the two wines.
For me, it was not necessary to analyse or to describe why : the 1989 is enjoyable, full of joy, showing its best aspects, and the 1990 is reserved, discrete. So, no possible hesitation, the 1989 is clearly the best.
And, more than that, it is a great wine.

Then, if one wants to analyse, one can think.
It is possible to say that the 1990 has a great future. It is possible to say, as Paul said, that this half of 1990 was not at its best.
But one thing is true, and the only important thing is that we were there at this specific moment, without hesitation the 1989 is a glorious wine, and the 1990 will be an immense wine in 20 years.

We left half of the bottle of the Riesling to the chef who will enjoy it tonight.