The wife of Tomo is in Japan. My wife is in the south. Tomo wonders if we have dinner together tomorrow. What does he bring? He tells me Musigny Roumier 1999. I answer Montrachet Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2002, a Musigny Comte de Vogue 1978. This proposal forces Tomo to respond indicating that he will add a Dom Perignon P3 1982. Four bottles for two, that’s a lot . Come what may. Tomo suggests to me the restaurant Pages. I phone the restaurant. Tomorrow night is full, but they will make sure, if we are only two, to welcome us.
Tomo delivers his bottles in the morning. I show up at 17:30 to open the wines. Tomo prefers an opening in advance for the Musigny rather than at the last moment. When opening, the cork of Montrachet of Romanée Conti has impressive quality and elasticity. The nose of the wine is superb and promises a thousand wonders. The cork of Musigny Roumier is of superb quality as well. The nose is a little more discreet but elegant. I want to open the Vogue Musigny and Tomo arrives at the restaurant. We look at the label very bumpy and it appears that it is a Musigny 1972. The top of the cork under the capsule has black dust that do not smell the earth as happens to the wines of Domaine de la Romanée Conti. The cork is black, comes in one piece but left some debris that I fish with a suitable utensil. The nose is uninviting, but I feel it will improve.
It’s 18:15 we are here, why not toast? Tomo opens the Champagne Dom Perignon P3 1982. The scent of champagne is extremely lively. It is intense, marking of rare nobility. In the mouth the wine is crisp, punchy, and I feel that the dosage liqueur weighs heavily on the wine. It is not too dosé, it is the dosage that is too heavy. This is a great champagne, but it is far from both what Dom Pérignon and what the 1982 Dom Perignon should be. It is therefore an exercise in style that takes us away from the story of Dom Perignon. Having in mind the grace of Dom Perignon 1982 original disgorgement, I have to say that this wine is not for me Dom Perignon. This is a great champagne whose perfume is dazzling, but in wishing to be too consensual, misses the ineffable grace of Dom Pérignon 1982. Of course, we enjoy it.
The menu that is offered is: blown bread and cream citron / ceviche pollack / sea potato chips / barnacle / beef Ozaki carpaccio / Saint-Jacques de Morlaix, roots, black truffles from Vaucluse / white asparagus southwest, squid / green asparagus / turbot, kale and Brussels sprouts / pig Xintoa red wine sauce / beef Simmental 60 days, Galicia 100 days Ozaki beef on iron and Bincho. On the menu that I copy the caviar that wraps in a crepe is missing.
Dom Pérignon is clearly at ease on the first dishes, but as soon as one brings on the Montrachet Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2002, clocks stop. The fragrance of this wine is intense and fresh. It has not the strength of Montrachet. In the mouth, it is a miracle that will stand. There are flowers, roses and fresh fruit, an incredible freshness that contrasts with what one expects from a Montrachet, and stunning presence. The wine leaves an indelible mark on the palate. It is no longer counting caudalies because the track is eternal. We look with Tomo and it is he who shoots first. He said : « this is definitely the biggest montrachet I drank and this is probably the greatest white wine in my life ». And he goes even further, saying this is perhaps the greatest wine, all categories.
I am fascinated by the aftertaste of this wine which takes possession of the palate and never left him. And a Montrachet, it has not the power but the romantic and floral grace, which combined with the indelible mark makes it an extraordinary wine. I drank twenty vintages of Montrachet of Romanee Conti and I would willingly say that it is the greatest of all. It is extraordinary, fresh, floral character but also of infinite intensity. I pour a glass for Teshi chief, his wife and the whole kitchen team and their mines lengthen as they are overwhelmed by the perfection of this wine.
The Musigny Domaine Georges Roumier 1999 has a little difficulty to go after this alien wine. His nose is large and deep. The mouth is a bit vague after montrachet but just wait because it will gradually spread its greatness. It is high on green asparagus, large on turbot, and obviously on meats that are its natural territory. The more time passes, the nobility and richness of this wine are affirmed. This is perhaps not the most moving of Musigny, but this is a great wine.
After this festival how will behave the Comte de Vogue Musigny 1972. Imprecise nose by opening is now more civilized. And as in the fairy tales, this is the red wine sauce that will make this wine a little miracle. I let chief Teshi try the wine sauce with the Musigny and the combination is phenomenal. The further we move into the meat more Musigny 1972 will assemble, giving a more orthodox message Musigny than the Roumier, and when I poured in my glass the dregs of 1972, I had the chance to smell a fragrance rose of an incredible charm. Of course the Vogue has not the presence of Roumier wine, but it showed qualities that never by opening I would have imagined . At two tables where I was known I carried glasses of 1972, which were appreciated by connoisseurs.
Tomo and I agree on the ranking of wines: 1 – Montrachet Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2002 2 – Musigny Domaine Georges Roumier 1999 3 – Domaine Comte de Vogue Musigny 1972 4 – Champagne Dom Perignon 1982 P3.
We realized that in its blini, the caviar, which normally would go with Dom Perignon, but we were at low tide, is divine with Montrachet. We saw that the truffle does not excite the Montrachet which is capable of flirting with both asparagus, green and white and with red meats. This is a fine wine whose power suits dishes.
The Musigny Roumier shone with turbot but also with meats and de Vogue is found on the intense meat and wine sauce which transcended it.
Restaurant Pages cuisine is still as bright. Green and white asparagus are crisp and make friends with wines. The most successful dish is that caviar wrapped in her small pancake. The meat is divine. And what makes you love Pages is the friendly atmosphere, open. We feel like in family.
We chose heavy testimonies of French wine. We have been blessed more than we wanted. The Montrachet is a spectacular illumination with which we touch Heaven.