<p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">With my wife, we went a week ago to Marc Veyrat in Megève.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">I will make a subject about this lunch, as we explored wines of the Rhone, some of them being magnificent.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">Marc Veyrat is a genius. I was wondering if a new experience would make me as happy. I was.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">Then, I drove to my house in the South of France, in a lovely place on the sea. For the week, no drop of wine was on my planning.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">But friends announced that they would come to visit me, and we went to a small restaurant which is one the rare places installed directly on the strand. They have put tons of white sand, so the place has an atmosphere of a small Saint-Tropez, the prices in less and the top models in less. But the place is charming. The name : pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: blue">“Le Day” in Hyères, near the airport, on the beach.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">Last year was their first installation and they had a good idea to have Dom Pérignon and Cristal Roederer for affordable prices. They had reopened the day before, so their cellar was nearly zero. pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">I asked them to go and buy wine as I would come back with friends. And they promised me that they would have nice fishes.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">We began with a pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: red">Cristal Roederer 1999pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">. I must say that I was very disappointed by this champagne that I found too “dosé”. Much too sweet for me. I would be happy to receive comments : am I wrong ?pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">Fortunately, the waiter came with huge plates of urchins (offered), and with the sweet taste and iodine taste of the urchins, it went largely better. But, I was disappointed.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan style="COLOR: black">Then a pan>pan style="COLOR: red">Blanc de Blancs Domaine d’Ott 2003pan>pan style="COLOR: black">. pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">I am always hesitant when Ott is concerned, because Ott is a “must” as Dom Pérignon is a must. So, I am always cautious. But I must say that I was bluffed by this wine which was extremely intense, deep and with a great personality. I had it on a Carpaccio of salmon. I have loved this wine.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">Then on a sea bream, I had ordered a pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: red">Bandol, Chateau Salettes red 2003pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">. Very nice, but largely less convincing than the white. And after that, a pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: red">Chateau Jasson red Cotes de Provence 2004pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black"> was promising, but largely too young for me.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">Such a lunch on the beach with a little wind but much warm sun is a promise for Summer.pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">I enjoyed the Ott. pan>p><p style="BACKGROUND: white">pan lang="EN-GB" style="COLOR: black">A nice day.pan>p>
<
p>
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p>un magnifique Bourbon 1900 bu à l'Astrance en novembre 2006p><
p>
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p>Margaux 1900, ici à côté d'Yquem 1872. C'est une de ces bouteilles que j'ai cassées un jour de malchance...p><
p>
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p>C'est cette
photo qui a fait la couverture de mon livre "carnet d'un collectionneur de vins anciens",
paru aux éditions Michalon.p><
p> On notera la différence entre "
premier vin" et "grand vin".p>
<p>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Lors de l’envoi du bulletin 173 par email, j’ai créé un petit concours pour inciter les lecteurs à lire mes bulletins et à consulter le blog. Voici la formulation :pan>p><p>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">« pan>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Il y avait dans le bulletin 172 une phrase volontairement absconse. Les quatre premiers qui en donneront la clef, avec l’explication exacte, partageront avec moi une Yquem. Pour le plaisir. La solution sera donnée dans une semaine sur le blog. On l’aura compris, c’est pour animer la lecture de ce bulletin et créer le réflexe de consulter le blog. »pan>p><p>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Il fallait trouver la phrase. La voici : « Le président de l’automobile club de France déclare ouvert le dîner annuel de l’Union des Grands Crus. Il rappelle, mais avec des mots plus choisis, que Noé fut le premier à faire rougir l’alcootest, et avec un langage fleuri, il nous compte l’histoire de la vigne. Quand au bout de cinq minutes on en est encore à Horus et Osiris, on se dit que la soirée sera longue, mais son discours fait « pschent », ce qui est assez abracadabrantesque, et c’est au tour du président de l’Union des Grands Crus de s’exprimer. »pan>p><p>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">La clef de l’énigme est la suivante : les interviews de Jacques Chirac le 14 juillet.pan>p><p>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Une année il dit que telle ou telle affaire ferait « pschitt ». Une autre année il trouva une question « abracadabrantesque », exhumant un mot de Rimbaud. Le discours de président s’annonçait fort long si l’Egypte prenait tant de temps. Or son discours s’arrête. Il fait pschitt. Comme on parlait de l’Egypte, il fait pschent, puisque pschent est la coiffe des pharaons. Ce brusque arrêt du discours est curieux. Il est donc abracadabrantesque. La logique élyséenne était dans cette phrase.pan>p><p>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Les vainqueurs sont trois.pan>p><p>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Nous boirons ensemble un vieil Yquem. Je le raconterai. pan>p>
Dans les grands retaurants, il y a le chariot du
pain, le chariot du beurre, le chariot des fromages, le chariot des infusions, le chariot des chocolats, le chariot des desserts. Je fais mieux, et avec le sourire, car j'a
pporte un nouveau chariot, le chariot de Marc Veyrat !!!
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<p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I arrive by the restaurant of hotel Bristol to open the bottles for a new dinner. The bottles have been delivered one week before and were put standing in the cellar yesterday morning by Jerome Moreau, the efficient sommelier of the place. Some material is waiting for me and I appreciate that, as it shows the commitment of the staff. Ludovic, a junior sommelier will help me and will smell rare scents. This ceremony of opening has become a tradition. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I am extremely disappointed by the three red Bordeaux, which seem tired, which should not be the case. Mission Haut-Brion 1964 is a solid wine. This one has an extraordinary fill in the neck. So, it should be good. I am ready to declare it dead. The Ausone 1953 looks tired, the Coutet 1952 (the Saint-Emilion) looks tired too, but I have more hopes. Added to that, the Sauternes 1943 seems to be weak. I am disappointed, and even more, for a specific reason.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">A TV Channel, Monte Carlo TV, will make a subject on my cellar in a few weeks. So, I asked a friend who is a sommelier to make my cellar a little more glamorous, and he found some bottles whose future is compromised. Having hurt a Chateau Margaux whose year could be 1931, he suggested that I drink it rapidly, and two other Bordeaux were in a bad situation and needed to be drunk rapidly too.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">If I had added the 3 wounded Bordeaux to sound bottles, it would be OK. But if I add them to wines counting some weak wines, things are not so good. As I had taken with me two spare bottles in case of emergency, I decided to open them. So, instead of having 10 bottles for 10 people, we will have 15 bottles, due to the addition of the 2 of the reserve and the 3 wounded added. We will see that many surprises occurred.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The guests of the dinner arrive precisely at 8 pm and I give the instructions or « rules » in order to enjoy the dinner, while we drink a champagne Charlespan style="COLOR: red"> Heidsieck 1982pan> that I have added. The colour of the wine is of an elegant peach light gold, the bubble is still lively, and the champagne is a good way to show what happens with old wines which have integrated all their flavours. The small “amuse-bouche” are very spicy, which seems to be a “façon” of the chef. They make appear various aspects of the champagne.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The menu has been composed by Eric Fréchon helped by Jérôme Moreau, and my comments, which were not numerous, have been taken into account. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Here is the menu :pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Chamalot parmesan, beignets de lotte, cornets de foie gras aux anguilles, maquis pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Bouillon cube de foie gras de canard, langoustines mi cuites au gingembre, coriandre et cébettes pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Topinambour et truffes noires, cuites en croûte de foin, bouillon mousseux au jus de truffe pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Filet de Sole farci aux girolles, sucs d’arête réduit à peine crémé pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Pot au feu de cochon et bœuf, volaille au foie gras, os à moelle et céleri rave pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Fourme d’Ambert pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Poire caramélisée cuite à l’étouffée, jus aux zestes de clémentine semi confite, glace à la vanillepan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">It was a truly comfortable menu as it was not too provocative, and was designed to help the old wines to shine.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">In our group, three people had already attended a previous dinner. We had French, Belgian and Luxemburg people around the table. Many people from business and finance, and a man managing a group of restaurants. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">There was a big contrast between the first champagne and the Laurentpan style="COLOR: red"> Perrier cuvee Grand Sièclepan> from a recent release, with wines coming probably from the period 1995 to 1997. If the first was masculine, this one is outrageously feminine, seducing, with an immense power of evocation of white flowers as the ones which accompany the new design of Laurent Perrier. It has the charm of a sophisticated strip tease. pan>p><p>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">pan> pan>The pan style="COLOR: red">Gewurztraminer Gustave Lorentz réserve 1966pan> is one of the greatest surprises of this dinner. The nose was very generous by opening some hours ago, and when drinking it, it is really flashing. It is not a late harvest so some points of dryness are really exciting. It is enigmatic and very successful. On the soup, it shines marvellously. A great wine and a great combination. I heard many “oh” and “ah” as everyone was amazed by this level of quality of a perfectly kept wine.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The Jerusalem artichoke of Eric Fréchon is exceptional. I had said so many nice words on the rare pan style="COLOR: red">Montrachet Comtes Lafon 1990pan> that when it appeared, all of us we were surprised. It is a great wine, with a light gold in colour, a nice smell, but it is as if a car was on the first gear and could not go to the second one. We can feel the promise of a great wine, but we have not the true Montrachet that we were expecting. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Eric Fréchon had thought of a provocative choice to associate the course with a white and a red. And I had said yes. So, pan style="COLOR: red">La Mission Haut-Brion 1964pan> was served at the same time as the Montrachet. And the surprise came from this wine, which I would have declared dead, and which came back to life due to the oxygen. Of course it was not the most brilliant example of a Mission 1964, but it was really expressive. And the truffles doped it.pan> pan>And as the Montrachet was playing under its category, it helped to make the Mission even more loveable.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">On the sole, two wines. Objectively, it is the pan style="COLOR: red">Château Coutet Saint-Emilion 1952pan> which is in the logic of the fish course. The wine has suffered. A little roasted, truffle like, it goes very well with the sauce. pan style="COLOR: red">The Château Ausone 1953pan> starts slowly. Polite, it begins by being discrete. But when it is installed in the glass, we can see all the charm of this great wine. It is very intelligent, not invading, but sufficiently great to be appreciated by all. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">On the “pot au feu”, we will have three Burgundies instead of two, as I had added the Corton.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The pan style="COLOR: red">Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses P. Misserey et Frère 1981pan> is extremely charming and performs largely better than what could be expected. Very young but altogether evolved, it is warmly sympathetic. The pan style="COLOR: red">Le Corton Bouchard Père & Fils 1980pan> has a very clear message, as in a Chinese calligraphy. I love these Burgundies. And the pan style="COLOR: red">Chambertin Charles Viénot 1934pan> is highly emotional. I had acquired this wine on the public sale of the cellar of Pierre Cardin in Maxim’s, and up to now, every try had been convincing. This wine is perfect. The structure is precise, dense, signalling a truly great wine. What is amazing is that critics could be made to the Bordeaux, even the most noble, and that no critic could be made to the three different Burgundies. This happens once, tonight, and cannot be considered as general.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Then we tried the three added wounded wines. The pan style="COLOR: red">Chateau Margaux 1931pan> has been bottled by a merchant some decades ago and has no year on the label. As I wanted to know, we drank it with experts some years ago, and the central idea was 1931. A weak year, but a pleasant wine. And this one, just wounded by a manipulation of my friend was spectacularly good. So, this addition could sweep all the interrogations on the previous Bordeaux. We enjoyed a truly great Margaux.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The two others had not the same presentation. The pan style="COLOR: red">Lynch-Moussa 1953pan> was undrinkable, and the pan style="COLOR: red">Château Trottevieille 1967pan> could have been tried, but there was no need to insist, so I rejected it. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The pan style="COLOR: red">Haut Sauternes Guillaume 1943pan> has a nice colour of a Sauternes of this period. The smell had been discrete and remained in the same stage. But the fourme d’Ambert helped it to appear a little intelligent. It was pleasant for a while.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Now, it is possible to forget anything as pan style="COLOR: red">the Chateau d’Yquem 1936pan> is absolutely exceptional. I had already drunk this year, but this bottle is above any of my expectations, and by far. I consider generally that the decade 30ies gave, with the exception of 1937 wines with a low botrytis. But this one is against my analysis. This Yquem is a Yquem full of joy, with fantastic expression of fruits with an orange colour : apricot, mango, some sorts of prunes, yellow peaches, and it is wonderful. It is this type of Yquem that I love, and tonight I loved it more than the last 1937 that I have drunk.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The pear of Eric is very tasty, but does not add anything to this shining Yquem which needs to be drunk alone.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We have voted as it is traditional.pan>p><p>The Yquempan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"> won 7 votes as first, the Chambertin 1934 got one vote as first, as is the case for the Laurent-Perrier and the Gewurztraminer.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The consensus of the votes was in favour of Yquem 1936, Chambertin 1934, Gewurztraminer 1966 and Ausone 1953.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">My personal vote has been :pan>p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -18pt">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue">pan>-pan style="FONT: 7pt "Times New Roman""> pan>pan>pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Yquem 1936pan>p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -18pt">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue">pan>-pan style="FONT: 7pt "Times New Roman""> pan>pan>pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Chambertin 1934pan>p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -18pt">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue">pan>-pan style="FONT: 7pt "Times New Roman""> pan>pan>pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Gewurztraminer 1966pan>p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -18pt">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue">pan>-pan style="FONT: 7pt "Times New Roman""> pan>pan>pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Ausone 1953pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The bad surprises were the Mission 1964 with a super high fill and the Montrachet Comtes Lafon 1990 for which I do not understand the underperformance. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">It appears that the bad performing were not the oldest ones, which gained the best votes. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">But it shows that wine collecting is not a quiet hobby.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">And it shows too that the oxygenation helped a lot to make some wines better than they would have been with another method. The Coutet 1952 and the Margaux 1931 have benefited from the oxygen.pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Eric Fréchon has made a very intelligent cook as he acted to enlarge the quality of the wines. The service has been perfect. pan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Despite the dissatisfaction that some of my “children” did not perform as I would have liked, this was a great dinner, with, once again, a wonderful and impressive Yquem.pan>p>
<p>Ce mot est émis sur son forum, en date du 18 mars, soit quinze jours avant la présentation officielle des 2005 à la presse à Bordeaux.p><p>Il est intéressant de noter que son message parle d'un vin d'Afrique du Sud, dans lequel est glissé subrepticement celui ci. Le titre : "Fabulous South African wine-ANWILKA"p><p>"Funny to me commenting on this wine after tasting 225+ rather astonishing 2005 Bordeaux this week,but this is the finest red wine I have ever had from South Africa....a partnership of Bruno Prats,Hubert de Bouard,and the Klein Constantia folks.This debut release, the 2005,a blend of 37% syrah and the balance cabernet sauvignon,is world class stuff....as one might expect from the people behind it....the first release...there are 42,000 bottles from their vineyards in Stellenbosch,and it is priced to sell for about $40-45 in the USA...release is imminent....exceptional wine....
Of course, I will be here in Bordeaux for another week,but 2005 is very exciting...and particularly at the lower levels....where a plethora of exceptional wines have been produced...and it is these wines which are never given a thought by the speculators so I think there will be many splendid 2005 Bordeaux available for very reasonable prices....unlike the famous names....you can be sure they will be priced in the stratosphere...the vintage is that exciting,and demand is already at a frightful fever pitch 4-6 weeks before prices are announced.....actually....to put it another way....the vintage looks to be historic in terms of what has emerged....." (Robert Parker)p><p />
<
p>I was asked on the Mark Squires forum which years are the best for the 20th century. Here is my answer :p>
Here are the Yquem that I have drunk for the last six years, since I take notes on what I drink.
1861 - 1876 - 1893 - 1893 - 1900 - 1906 - 1908 - 1908 - 1917 - 1921 – 1921 - 1921 - 1928 - 1928 - 1929 - 1931 - 1932 - 1933 - 1934 - 1936 - 1937 – 1937 - 1937 - 1937 - 1940 - 1941 - 1942 - 1942 - 1945 - 1947 - 1948 - 1949 – 1949 - 1950 - 1955 - 1955 - 1959 - 1959 - 1959 - 1960 - 1961 - 1962 - 1966 – 1967 - 1967 - 1967 - 1967 - 1967 - 1973 - 1975 - 1976 - 1978 - 1979 - 1980 – 1981 - 1982 - 1982 - 1983 - 1983 - 1983 - 1984 - 1986 - 1986 - 1987 - 1987 – 1988 - 1988 - 1988 - 1988 - 1988 - 1988 - 1989 - 1989 – 1989 - 1990 - 1990 - 1990 – 1990 - 1991 - 1991 - 1991 - 1994 - 1995 - 1995 - 1995 - 1996 - 1996 - 1996 – 1997 - 1998 - 1998 - 1998 - 1999 - 1999 – 2001 - 2001
What is difficult is that I never compare Yquems, as I never open two together, or if I do so, there is a young and an old.
And I must say too that when I drink Yquem, I enjoy it so much that every Yquem is my best Yquem.
As I like old Yquem, my answer will be :
1 - 1900
2 - 1928
3 - 1947
4 - 1959
5 - 1955
But I must say that I am not sure of my answer, as some 1929, a 1908 and a 1917 have pleased me enormously.
On Thursday, I will open a Yquem 1936 of a very high fill and of a magnificent colour (original fill). Normally it should be a great one as I prefer the taste of Yquems with orange colours to caramail colours.