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Visit to Chateau Margaux samedi, 11 mars 2006

After the dinner by Yquem, I went to meet Paul Pontallier in Chateau Margaux.
We tasted the Margaux 2004 : the nose is of spice, leather and the powder for make-up. In mouth, I find it in a closed phase.
The Margaux 2003 is a contrary. It has the greatest possible feminin charm. Absolutely sexy.
Having read the book "the Perfume" by Patrick Süskind on the impossible search for the perfect perfume, what I think immediately is that the nose of this Margaux 2003 is the one of the skin of a beloved woman. In mouth, the sensuality of Margaux explodes. I am not able to predict what it will be in 20 years. But for me, today, it is a pure devil buying your soul.

To drink a Pavillon blanc de Chateau Margaux 2005 looks like trying to discover the beauty of a Muslim woman wearing a burka. Lots of aromas, which is classical for well made white wines. But what to say ? More fruity than the Smith Haut Lafitte white 2005. Not more to say.

We arrive by 'le lion d'or', a restaurant that I did not know but that I recommand : the meat has a quality which is incredible. The chef is a nice man, easy, talkative. A pleasure.

I had brought for Paul to share with him a Riesling Zind Humbrecht 1983. We had it on "charcuterie", and it was absolutely impressive. Citrus fruit, artichoke, prunes, and a way of filling the mouth which has a lot of charm. A truly great wine.
On the lamb of Pauillac, we drank Margaux 1989 and Margaux 1990 from halves bottled originally in due time. So, no samples, original filling.
Paul wanted to check with me how we judge the two wines.
For me, it was not necessary to analyse or to describe why : the 1989 is enjoyable, full of joy, showing its best aspects, and the 1990 is reserved, discrete. So, no possible hesitation, the 1989 is clearly the best.
And, more than that, it is a great wine.

Then, if one wants to analyse, one can think.
It is possible to say that the 1990 has a great future. It is possible to say, as Paul said, that this half of 1990 was not at its best.
But one thing is true, and the only important thing is that we were there at this specific moment, without hesitation the 1989 is a glorious wine, and the 1990 will be an immense wine in 20 years.

We left half of the bottle of the Riesling to the chef who will enjoy it tonight.

dîner de wine-dinners au Chateau d’Yquem jeudi, 9 mars 2006

<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">pace="5" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/uploads/TABLEYQUEM.jpg" width="400" align="right" border="0" />pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">pan>I arrive before 4 pm in the castle of Yquem. For the last two days the bottles were standing on a table in the circular room of one of the towers. A photograph will take pictures of the whole event.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Christiane prepares the table, and 12 glasses are strictly arranged in front of every seat. Nice white flowers are presented in every possible place. All is nice. The whole place smells wax as every room had been cleaned and waxed. I ask that every window would be opened to rub this awful smell.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I open the bottles, and Sandrine Garbay, whose husband had an operation in a clinic, was not there, but Valerie Lailheugue looked with a great attention to my operations. Every smell is very classical. The smell of the Carbonnieux 1928 is so generous that I decide to close it with a neutral cork. The Corton 1929 is a little disturbing but will be cured by the air. The Chateau Chalon 1955 instead of having a smell of nuts has a smell of truffle. We will see.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Now my emotion is at its maximum. I will open the Yquem 1861. Here is what is included in the book of Yquem written in 1986 by Richard Olney : “Yquem 1861 : totally incredible wine. One of the great wine experience of a lifetime… a nectar that should see the next century in fine shape. Dark brown colour, amber gold tones. Rich, intriguing nose. Rich, deep, liqueur-like texture… Very long finish. Perfect balance. Exquisite (The Underground Wineletter, 1983). Twice tasted by A. de Lur Saluces who was both times astounded by its vitality, depth and complexity. Picking began 24 September.”pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The castle has still one 1861, but which was recorked. My bottle is original, and Sandrine Garbay, responsible of the cellar and of the wine making, had already confirmed that it is an original cork and confirmed again when she came later. So, for me, to open a liquid which had stayed in the same bottle for 145 years minus 3 of barrels is incredibly serious.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I put away a capsule of golden colour but which has some black stains. I try to clean the top of the bottle, and some pieces of glass fall. I separate some tiny pieces of glass. Why does the glass break so easily ? And I begin to panic. I ask for a hair dryer to put away any piece of glass, the wine being protected by the cork still inside. And I begin to pull the cork. It breaks as a flower which would lose its petals. I use a special corkscrew which allows me to feel what happens, and I succeed in pulling every piece outside the bottle with nothing falling in the wine.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I smell. And “wow”. Imagine the actor who listens that he has received the Oscar pan> pan>award for the best actor. This smell gave the same message to me. Perfect.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The colour had made me fear that it would be caramelised. It was not! Less that the Yquem 1950 that I had four days ago. Fantastic. If Valerie had not been there, I would have danced alone in the room. I drank a sip and shared a drop with Valerie. Once again fantastic. I was so happy. As if my heavy weight had become a feather weight. Wow. The rest of the day would be relaxed. And in our mouth, the taste of the Yquem never ended.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">Sandrine Garbaypan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"> arrived, and I had kept the empty glass. The perfume that came from the glass had the real perfection of Yquem. I had such a joy. Sandrine seeing my excitement took a pan style="COLOR: red">Yquem 1957pan> that was recently opened, and gave me one glass. A pure Yquem with no extravaganza, whose length was shortened by a few days of opening. But a delight. And I was happy.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I talked with the people who would serve the wines, I arranged every bottle for a proper temperature and position, and when I was sure that everything would be proper, I went to take a shower in a room of the castle. Under my shower, it was as if I were the king of the universe.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I wait for the guests in the office of Pierre Lurton, who is always between two trips, chatting with him.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The guests arrive, and we visit the chais, and we taste the Yquempan style="COLOR: red"> 2001pan>. This Yquem is immense. It is the definition of the perfection of Yquem. What a personality. It has already changed since the last time I drank it. The taste of grapes has evolved towards darker grapes. I love this wine.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We go to the castle. We are nine. Four couples and myself. We drink a pan style="COLOR: red">Dom Pérignon 1985pan> which was designed to clear the mouth from the invading persistent charm of Yquem 2001. It is served with some cakes that I could not negotiate to avoid. These cakes shorten this elegant champagne which is a champagne of fight : it requires a complicated food to fight with it for the pleasure of our palate. Obviously a great champagne.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We go to our table nicely dressed in an emotional room. pan>pan style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The menu of the chef Marc Demund is : Œuf Poché au Corail d’Oursins / Noix de st Jacques sur Effilures d’Echalotes Confites / Homard Rôti aux Truffes / Esturgeon et Poireaux Bordelaise / Mignon de Veau à la Fleur de Lavande / Foie Gras de Canard Poêlé aux Amandes / Comté / Pavé de Mangue et Agrumes / Mignardises. pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I had talked a lot with Marc to make these choices.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We begin with pan style="COLOR: red">Laville Haut-Brion 1976pan>. Already golden colour, intense nose, this wine exposes what I announce concerning the world of old wines. Magnificently balanced, the wine is enlarged by the urchin. pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The pan style="COLOR: red">Chateau Carbonnieux white 1948pan> is an enigma. I had checked that it is an original bottling (this can be done by looking, under the capsule, the sediment), and it amazes everyone that the wine is incredibly young. The yellow colour is almost as green as for a young wine, the smell is of an infant, and the taste is brilliant because then we see that age has integrated every aspect. With the scallop, a classical combination.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The lobster will welcome two wines : pan style="COLOR: red">Pavie 1971pan> and pan style="COLOR: red">Carbonnieux red 1928pan>. My palate is used to such old wines which appear as heavy as Port wines. This Carbonnieux is truly heavy like lead, having an unbelievable concentration. I love a lot. My guests less. The length is incredible. If they do not try so much the Carbonnieux, it is because the Pavie is to adore. I will not raise any controversy, but I adore this Pavie, elegant and expressive, for my taste largely above any recent version of the same wine. And with the Audouze method, the two wines shine at their best. The combination with a lobster a little too cooked is a delight. The heavy truffled sauce taken with the Carbonnieux which smells truffles is a unique moment. Probably the best match for me.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The smell of the pan style="COLOR: red">Chambolle Musigny Bouchard Père &amp; Fils 1967pan> is, after the great old Yquem the smell of the evening. Emotional, seducing. I love it. And in mouth with the sturgeon, it is fantastic. This wine is absolutely performing above its category. And the pan style="COLOR: red">Echézeaux Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1991pan> is magnificent too, even if more accessible for everyone due to its age. I have loved it. I was a little afraid of a possible repulsion of the bordelaise sauce with the wines. It was a success, and it is my coquetry to have put a bordelaise sauce with two Burgundies in Chateau d’Yquem.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The veal was delicious and the pan style="COLOR: red">Corton« cuvée B » Brossault 1929pan> whose smell was unpleasant had gently become to the state I expected. A delicious Corton of the greatest year for Burgundies. Light colour with some pink. Smell rather short. And a fill in mouth of warm welcome, complex taste, pleasure. I have drunk better 1929, but this one was nice too.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I had asked that the foie gras would come at the end, as it was made in the 19p>thp> century. The pan style="COLOR: red">Krug 1988pan> was not the proper match with it. A gently light sweet wine would have been more logical.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">A delicious Comté not too old as I had asked made shine a pan style="COLOR: red">Chateau Chalon Jean Bourdy 1955pan> which was rather light for a “vin jaune”, which was particularly good, as a stronger wine would have disturbed some of my guests, specially the women.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Not knowing that the 1861 would be so good, I had planned that we would finish with the Yquem 1961 to keep a nice taste in mouth. But as it was so great, we would finish naturally with the older. pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Yquem 1961pan>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"> is a great Yquem. It is the gift of Pierre Lurton for this dinner, with the intention to see what a century of distance will make. Directly in the historical line of Yquem, with a great power, a balanced structure, a very deep trace in mouth made by fruits like peaches, apricots. Great, and historically designed. If I want to be indelicate, I would say that it is the first time in this historical room that I have tasted such a perfect match of a dessert with a Yquem. I know that it is naughty from me.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We were expecting the star : pan style="COLOR: red">Yquem 1861pan>. The nose is spicy, prunes, intense, and curiously, with no default. In the glass the colour is very brown, but when the wine is moved, the gold shines more. In mouth it is religious. The definition of the structure is so precise, delicate. It evokes candied prunes, or prunes burnt by the sun, or marmalade of prunes. The citrus fruit aspects are very discrete but exist to make it more charming, and the caramel, torrified aspects, are discrete too. You can think of coffee, tea, but the main image is prunes. And what is impressive is the incredible length.pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Normally in the castle some alcohols like Paradise Hennessy are served. Everyone did not touch any, just to keep the perfection of this rare Yquem in mouth. pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The atmosphere was not to make people vote. But I give my ranking : pan style="COLOR: blue">Yquem 1861, Chambolle Musigny Bouchard 1967, Carbonnieux blanc 1948 and Château Pavie 1971pan>. The Yquem 1961 would be highly ranked in another dinner, but tonight it is in the shadow of the 1861. pan>p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt; TEXT-ALIGN: justify">pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I could say that for a collector as I am, to present my wines in a dinner by Château d’Yquem represents what could make me think : now, I can die in peace. Many events to come should give me the motivation to continue these adventures.pan>p>

dîner de wine-dinners au Chateau d’Yquem jeudi, 9 mars 2006

  1. pt 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Champagne Dom Pérignon 1985pan>
  2. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Château Laville Haut-Brion blanc 1976pan>
  3. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Château Carbonnieux blanc 1948
    pity_imageComment_right" style="WIDTH: 400px">
    pity_imageComment_img">pace="5" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/uploads/CARBONN48.jpg" width="400" align="right" border="0" />
    pity_imageComment_txt">j'aimerais conserver toutes ces capsules aux couleurs d'une rare beauté
    pan>
  4. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Château Pavie 1971pan>
  5. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Château Carbonnieux 1928pan>
  6. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Chambolle Musigny Bouchard 1967pan>
  7. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Echézeaux Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1991pan>
  8. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Corton « cuvée B » Brossault 1929pan>
  9. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Champagne Krug 1988pan>
  10. Château Chalonpan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond"> Jean Bourdy 1955pan>
  11. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Chateau d'Yquem 1961pan>
  12. pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Chateau d'Yquem 1861pan>
<p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">le menu composé par Marc Demund :pan>p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond"><p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Œuf Poché au Corail d’Oursinspan>p><p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Noix de st Jacques sur Effilures d’Echalotes Confitespan>p><p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Homard Rôti aux Truffespan>p><p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Esturgeon et Poireaux Bordelaisepan>p><p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Mignon de Veau à la Fleur de Lavandepan>p><p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Foie Gras de Canard Poêlé aux Amandespan>p><p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Comtépan>p><p>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Pavé de Mangue et Agrumespan>p><p>pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-FAMILY: Garamond">Mignardisespan>p><p /><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -18pt" />pan>

L’instant magique où Yquem 1861 va être servi jeudi, 9 mars 2006

<p>pace="5" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/uploads/CopiedeY473.jpg" width="448" border="0" /> p><p>Tout le monde est servi, et Pierre Lurton va boire son premier Yquem du 19ème siècle, un 1861 dont le bouchon était d'origine, rendant encore plus rare cette expérience.p><p>pace="5" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/uploads/Y540.jpg" width="448" align="left" border="0" /> p><p> p>

vins du dîner à Yquem jeudi, 9 mars 2006

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<p>Les vins sont ici dans l'ordre de service. La 11ème, un Yquem 1938 ne sera pas ouverte ainsis que la douzième, demie-bouteille d'Yquem 1893 (année mythique). Elles étaient là pour pallier une faiblesse de la 1861 (que l'on voit 13ème de cette rangée). Il n'en fut pas besoin. p><p /><p /> File date :
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Yquem 1861 day minus 1 jeudi, 9 mars 2006

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Life has to be lived as an irrational theatre. This morning I receive a call : two people who were registered for the dinner cancel their registration. To find someone the day before is not so easy.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I immediately think of all the people to whom I said no, who had shown an interest for this dinner, and I think that it is a great waste. It is unfair.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">As I had heard that Carole Lurton, the wife of Pierre, had been “jealous” of him, because he would drink a 1861, I immediately reacted by inviting her, and she accepted. pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">So one seat is missing, and it will not be easy to find someone. pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">As I had exchanged emails with a contributor to this forum, who is a journalist in Strasbourg, Panos, and as I knew that he was in the region, I met him for lunch in the restaurant of “Les Caudalies”, the property of the family Cathiard (Smith Haut Lafitte). I announced that I was there and Daniel Cathiard went to say hello to me. He said that due to a disease which hurts the migrating birds he had decided to take away the swans which were on the charming ponds in the lovely garden of Les Caudalies. He told me that the swans, being hidden in a closed room, are sad and do not eat anything. The “principle of precaution” which exists will kill more than the disease (for the moment).pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">At the table, many journalists from British and other horizons came from a visit in Haut-Bailly, and by Chateau Brown, whose owner was with us. He is a new owner as he bought the castle in 2004, and we drank the Brown 1998 made before his buy. Not much to say.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We tasted the Smith Haut Lafitte (SML) cabernet franc 2005, the SML merlot 2005 and the white SML sauvignon. I loved the cabernet, very round and showing that the work of making the wine has been well done. Impossible to judge the sauvignon as I am not expert on foetus wines.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We tried to find in a blind tasting a wine which was brought to us. A very elegant nose but a strict mouth did not allow me to find that it was pan style="COLOR: red">Smith Haut Lafitte red 1998pan>. I would expect this wine to be at a higher level than what I drank.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Now I am going to Mouton-Rothschild. I cannot clear my mind, being so upset that people cancelled one day before.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">At my age, I should know that things never happen as was programmed.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">I arrive at Mouton, and even if it is difficult to imagine, I have never been there. As I already said, I have never visited places where I was not known, as I do not want to disturb them.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">My fault ! Because the museum of Mouton is something unbelievable, and the cellar of Philippine, if I had seen it before, would have pushed me to create a cellar at a higher scale than what I have !pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We tasted the 2005, for which I made a separate subject.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We went, with Philippe Dhalluin, in the restaurantpan style="COLOR: blue"> of Cordeilhan Bagespan>, whose chef is Thierry Marx.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The food is extremely creative, very precise, and every plate is a piece of art. But it is a little too intellectual for me. I like precision and the cook is very precise, but I do not like too much when sophistication is a goal and not a mean.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">And what annoys me the most in the excessive breaks that we should have within our talks because a waiter comes to announce a new butter, a new bread, a new course, a new sauce, a new vegetable. I got bored with all those pompous speeches, disturbing a lot our pleasure.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Obviously a wonderful place, a highly creative cook. But please, stop talking !!!pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">On that a pan style="COLOR: red">Calon-Ségur 1986pan> which was very interesting. Seducing on one moment and strict the other moment, this wine does not like to be characterised. Not extremely long but pleasant in mouth, it left me in a mixed mood.pan>

pan lang="EN-GB" style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">We had with Philippe Dhalluin a very interesting talk about wine in an historical perspective. A nice dinner.pan>

I have drunk Mouton 2005 ! jeudi, 9 mars 2006

<p style="MARGIN: 0px">I am probably the first in the world, outside the staff of Mouton, to have drunk Mouton 2005.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">If I am not the first, I am the second, but who cares.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">And it is a paradox that I, someone who loves old wines, drink such a baby.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">I tasted la Fleur Milon 2005 : smell of blackberry and pepper. Very stiff in mouth.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">d'Armaillac 2005 has a softer nose and is largely more round in mouth. Very fruity of course.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">Clerc Milon 2005 has an incredible elegance. I loved this wine.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">The Petit Mouton de Mouton Rohschild is more powerful but has not the elegance of Clerc Milon.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">Then I put my lips on Mouton 2005, tasted on March 8, 2006.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">What strikes me is that there is no default. Everything appears very balanced.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">And then I thought : let me just imagine that I drink this wine, not knowing it is Mouton : would I love it as I love it, knowing it is Mouton ?p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">And the evidence came when I went back to Clerc Milon.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">This wine that I had loved did not shine any more when compared to the Mouton.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">This Mouton is certainly a great juice.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px"> p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">Now, how to judge ?p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">Show me a baby of six months, and ask me : what will be this baby when he will be 18 years old, and what will he be when he will be 35 years old.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px"> p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">On that question, probably experts have the answer. I have not. I can only say that this wine is made with modern techniques : the grapes are very mature. The juice is elegant, balanced and could be drunk in a dinner.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px"> p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">For the future : see experts.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px"> p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">Note : during the dinner that I had by Cordeilhan Bages with Philippe Dhalluin we talked about history. According to the notes kept in their files, the Mouton 1928 was undrinkable for many years. So, it was undrinkable on March 8, 1929.p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">What would you say on a Mouton 2005 which is drinkable on March 8, 2006 ???????p><p style="MARGIN: 0px"> p><p style="MARGIN: 0px">Experts will tell.p>

L’examen des bouchons avec Sandrine Garbay jeudi, 9 mars 2006

<p>pace="5" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/uploads/CopiedeY230.jpg" width="448" align="left" border="0" />Je viens d'ouvrir toutes les bouteilles du dîner de ce soir à Yquem. p><p>Sandrine, maître de chais d'Yquem tient en main le bouchon du Yquem 1861 et confirme l'examen que nous avons fait : cette bouteille a un bouchon d'origine.p><p>Ceci veut dire que pendant 145 ans, jamais un gramme d'air n'est venu altérer le précieux liquide.p><p>On voit sous mon bras les outils que j'utilise pour extirper les bouchons difficiles.p>

67ème dîner de wine-dinners au Chateau d’Yquem – le récit jeudi, 9 mars 2006

<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">J’avais apporté il y a deux jours les bouteilles du 67p>èmep> dîner de wine-dinnerspan style="color: blue"> au château d’Yquempan>. J’arrive le jour « J » un peu avant 16 heures, les sourires sont sur toutes les lèvres. Sandrine Garbay ne sera pas là quand j’ouvre les bouteilles mais nous les commenterons longuement lorsqu’elle me rejoindra. Un photographe m’accompagne pour immortaliser l’ouverture des vins que Valérie observe avec grand intérêt, et Christiane, gardienne attentive de ce beau patrimoine observe ces allées et venues avec des yeux miroitant d’envie gourmande. Le Carbonnieux blanc 1948 paraissant tellement plus jeune que le Laville Haut-Brion 1976, j’observe le dessous de la capsule et le bouchon qui confirment bien que la bouteille est d’origine. Sa conservation est magnifique. L’odeur du Carbonnieux rouge 1928 est si capiteuse que je rebouche avec un bouchon neutre. Les émanations du Corton 1929 me font un peu peur, mais cela va sans doute se corriger, et le Château Chalon 1955 m’étonne. Là où j’attendais de la noix, c’est la truffe qu’exhale ce vin jaune. Arrive enfin le grand moment. Le Château d’Yquem 1861 très foncé sera-t-il caramélisé ou aura-t-il la chatoyante perfection d’Yquem ? C’est maintenant que je le saurai. La capsule est noircie et collante. J’enfonce une mèche dans le bouchon. Je soulève, et voici que le verre s’effrite. J’enlève quelques éclats, je nettoie alors que le bouchon est à peine soulevé, et j’utilise un sèche-cheveux pour qu’aucune poussière de verre ne puisse subsister. Le bouchon se brise en mille morceaux comme une fleur qui perdrait ses pétales. Aucune parcelle ne tombera dans la bouteille. Et là, bingo, jackpot, le parfum de ce vin est extraordinaire. Le caramel est infime, alors que le cassis, le poivre que j’avais sentis dans des 2005, les fruits confits, pan> pan>lancent des milliers de signes de vie. Je goûte et c’est l’extase. Il s’agit d’un immense Yquem. Valérie avait imprimé une fiche de dégustation du livre sur Yquem dont voici le texte : « " vin incroyable. Sa dégustation est un sommet d'expérience dans la vie d’un œnophile...un nectar qui verra le siècle à venir en parfait état. Acajou aux reflets dorés. Nez riche, fascinant; texture de liqueur. Très longue suite. Equilibre parfait. Exquis." (The Underground Wine Letter, 1983). Goûté à deux reprises par Alexandre de Lur Saluces, qui à chaque fois fut étonné par sa vitalité, sa profondeur et sa complexité. Vendanges commencées le 24 septembre. ». Ce que je découvre est exactement ce qui fut écrit il y a 23 ans. Si vous voulez prendre conscience de l’état de ma joie à ce moment là, allez voir sur le blog la photo qui fut prise de ma jouissance intérieure.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">La longueur de ce vin est infinie, et je sentirai des dizaines de fois le fond de ce premier verre. Il s’agit d’un vin issu d’une bouteille qui n’aura jamais été ouverte en 145 ans puisqu’elle est d’origine, ce qui lui confère une rareté encore plus grande. A partir de là ma vie devient plus belle. Sandrine Garbay qui nous rejoint sent les vins avec moi et nous les commentons. Une bouteille entamée pan style="color: red">d’Yquem 1957pan> trainant à portée de main, Sandrine m’en verse quelques gouttes pour apaiser mon émotion. Ouvert depuis plusieurs jours, il a perdu de sa longueur, mais Yquem reste Yquem. En prenant ma douche dans une chambre mise à ma disposition, j’ai les mêmes sensations qu’un acteur à qui l’on aurait annoncé qu’il recevra l’Oscar du meilleur acteur. Sur un nuage, je vis un moment d’une intensité suprême. Je me dis que ma vie de collectionneur pourrait s’arrêter là. Mais attendons au moins le dîner.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Les invités arrivent et sont accueillis par Pierre Lurton qui nous fait visiter les chais. Les 2005 et 2004 sont en formation et les 2003 viennent d’être embouteillés. Dans la salle de dégustation nous goûtons pan style="color: red">Yquem 2001pan>. Quel diabolique Yquem qui a tout pour lui, insolent gamin promis aux plus belles destinées. En le buvant, on « croque » le plus beau botrytis qui ait été fait.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Nous entrons au château et je vais rapidement saluer Marc Demund avec lequel j’ai eu de longues conversations de mise au point du menu. Dans le beau salon, le pan style="color: red">Dom Pérignon 1985 apan style="color: windowtext; font-weight: normal"> pour mission d’effacer les traces indélébiles d’Yquem 2001. Mais au-delà de cela, il cause ! Champagne étonnamment complexe, aux mille évocations, il aurait besoin d’un beau plat, alors que les sacrosaints biscuits d’apéritif, dont je n’ai pas pu négocier l’absence, tradition oblige, brident sa longueur et son enthousiasme.pan>pan>pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Nous nous rendons dans la merveilleuse salle à manger du château où nous serons neuf. Pierre Lurton et Carole, qui avaient déjà participé à l’un de mes dîners, deux relations qui m’avaient connu par France Info, un couple de russes et un couple d’ukrainiens. La connaissance des vins est loin d’être homogène, mais il y a de solides palais et une volonté commune d’apprendre.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">N’ayant connu la cuisine de Marc Demund qu’en invité des lieux, je n’avais pas une vision exhaustive de sa cuisine. Son menu fut élégant, avec quelques audaces qui furent plébiscitées, et le tout d’un agrément certain : pan style="color: #003300">Œuf Poché au Corail d’Oursins / Noix de st Jacques sur Effilures d’Echalotes Confites / Homard Rôti aux Truffes / Esturgeon et Poireaux Bordelaise / Mignon de Veau à la Fleur de Lavande / Foie Gras de Canard Poêlé aux Amandes / Comté / Pavé de Mangue et Agrumes / Mignardisespan>. Beau voyage bordelais.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Le pan style="color: red">Laville Haut-Brion 1976 apan style="color: windowtext; font-weight: normal"> une couleur dorée. Son nez est expressif, et en bouche la qualité des plus grands blancs de Bordeaux apparait. Rond, à maturité, intégré et de belle longueur, il se marie à l’oursin de jolie façon. Pour ma jolie voisine, c’est le vin le plus ancien de sa vie, ce qui annonce bien des surprises à venir. J’ai senti qu’elle apprécie et apprend avec entrain. Le pan>Château Carbonnieux blanc 1948pan> surprend toute la table par sa couleur de vin jeune. Le nez est de la même eau : éblouissant de jeunesse. C’est en bouche que l’on comprend qu’une palette de saveurs aussi bien constituée ne peut venir que d’un grand vin ancien. Je n’ai pas osé les échalotes, il parait que ce fut bon. La chair de la Saint-Jacques suffisait à mon bonheur. pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">J’ai fait cohabiter le pan style="color: red">Château Pavie 1971pan> et le pan style="color: red">Château Carbonnieux 1928pan> sur le homard, choix que j’adore. La truffe va remarquablement avec le Carbonnieux 1928 lourd comme du plomb, au nez de truffe. Tel un vieux porto il envahit le palais. Capiteux, il déroute quelques convives alors que je profite de chaque goutte d’un immense vin. A coté de lui, le Pavie d’une jeunesse folle (par comparaison), dandy chantant, se joue avec bonheur de toutes les composantes du plat. La chair du homard lui va bien. Beau Pavie très long, strict comme un Pomerol, et touché par la grâce d’une année qui réussit à la rive droite. Pierre Lurton apprécie en connaisseur l’élégance de ce saint-émilion, sans doute plus délicat que les réalisations actuelles de ce grand château. pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Le pan style="color: red">Chambolle Musigny Bouchard Père &amp; Fils 1967pan> offre la plus belle senteur de la soirée si l’on excepte Yquem. Magnifique odeur complexe et chaleureuse. Comme pour chaque vin, je suis émerveillé de ce qu’ils expriment lorsqu’ils ont eu l’oxygène qui leur convient. Que de fois dans d’autres dîners, on s’aperçoit à regret que c’est la dernière gorgée qui est la plus belle. Là, le vin est chaleureux dès son apparition. Et ce Chambolle Musigny est magnifique de charme et de gentille complexité. Il ne s’en laisse pas compter par pan style="color: red">l’Echézeaux Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1991pan>, car celui-ci joue sur d’autres registres. Redoutablement séducteur comme les vins de ce domaine, il trouve dans la sauce de l’esturgeon un tremplin de pur bonheur. Quel accord splendide ! Marier une Bordelaise à deux vins de Bourgogne est un de mes plaisirs mutins, surtout lorsqu’on le fait dans ce site symbolique de la magie du bordelais. Deux bourgognes magnifiques qui forment un agréable pendant à la paire de bordeaux, quatre expressions du rouge dans des états d’un grand épanouissement.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Le délicieux mignon de veau accueille le pan style="color: red">Corton « cuvée B » Brossault 1929pan> dont l’odeur m’avait fait peur à l’ouverture. Il reste des soupçons d’âge, mais à mon agréable surprise tout le monde adhère à ce vin délicat, clair comme les Corton peuvent l’être. Sa longueur est belle, son palais fort subtil démontrant, s’il en était besoin, que 1929 restera dans l’histoire du vin. La Bourgogne dans sa majesté.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">J’ai changé l’ordre des vins et des plats du fait de la dégustation d’Yquem 2001 qui demandait un traitement spécial du palais. Le foie gras se trouve donc ici, comme on le faisait au 19p>èmep> siècle, et j’ai gardé le champagnepan style="color: red"> Krug 1988pan> sur ce plat. C’est une erreur que j’assume. Bien sûr, c’est possible. Mais ça n’apporte rien. Le champagne est grand, le foie gras est bon, aucun des deux ne se parle vraiment. pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Un comté très approprié, car je l’avais demandé peu âgé, met remarquablement en valeur le Château Chalonpan style="color: red"> Jean Bourdy 1955pan> qui a effacé mes craintes. Ayant un type « vin jaune » moins prononcé qu’à l’accoutumée, cela convient parfaitement à des convives novices qui n’eurent pas le réflexe fréquent de l’incompréhension. L’accord glisse avec facilité. Tout s’enchaîne avec bonheur.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Le pan style="color: red">Château d’Yquem 1961pan>, offert par Pierre Lurton, pour servir de témoin à son aîné d’un siècle est un Yquem dans la ligne historique. La couleur est d’un or pur, joliment miellé, le nez est intense, d’un beau botrytis qui n’en impose pas. Et en bouche, c’est la récompense d’un Yquem sage, chaud, quasiment parfait. Le dessert lui va comme un gant, ce qui est sans doute l’un des plus beaux desserts que j’aie goûté en ce lieu que je révère, et va nous préparer à accueillir le vin qui justifie que l’on tînt ici ce dîner.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Le pan style="color: red">Château d'Yquem 1861pan> est d’une couleur foncée, lourde, mais lorsque le liquide s’écoule, des lueurs d’or et d’orange passent fugacement. Cette couleur est infiniment plus belle que celle qu’on apercevait à travers une bouteille opacifiée par l’âge. Le nez est éblouissant, sans doute plus pour moi que pour les autres convives, non parce que je serais celui qui « sait » mais parce que ma route a été jalonnée de témoignages de grands anciens. Pour Pierre, c’est son premier Yquem du 19p>èmep> siècle. Pour moi c’est mon plus ancien, car j’ai toujours raté les wagons qu’il eût fallu prendre où l’on ouvrait les 1847 et 1811, années qui me fascinent. pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">En bouche, c’est un nirvana absolu, car mieux que pour le 1950 récent, ce 1861 a dompté son côté caramel pour ouvrir ses bras aux fruits confits, aux compotes de pruneaux, et de temps en temps aux fruits oranges et aux agrumes. On ne peut pas boire cet Yquem sans émotion et sans penser qu’il a traversé 145 ans pour être bu. La date est historique pour nos hôtes russes, ce qui a justifié leur inscription à ce dîner. Je suis comblé par la perfection de ce nectar dont la longueur est telle que pendant la nuit et le lendemain matin, sa trace ne me quitta pas. Il faut évidemment des références pour goûter ce vin extrême. Mais les « novices » aussi sont touchés par sa majestueuse grandeur.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Pour la première fois je n’ai pas fait voter pour les vins, parce que l’atmosphère ne s’y prêtait pas. Je vais donc remplir l’unique bulletin de vote en commençant par pan style="color: blue">Yquem 1861pan>, suivi de pan style="color: blue">Chambolle Musigny Bouchard 1967, Carbonnieux blanc 1948 et Château Pavie 1971pan>. Il est certain qu’Yquem 1961 mériterait la vedette dans d’autres dîners. L’honneur qu’il porte à son aîné est magistralement mérité.pan>p>
<p style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0cm; margin: 0cm 3.6pt 6pt 0cm">pan style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt">Ce soir fut la récompense la plus inespérée de ma passion des vins anciens. Merci à ceux qui l’ont permis.pan>p>

Les vins servis à Yquem jeudi, 9 mars 2006

<p>pace="5" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/uploads/vinsYquem.jpg" width="448" border="0" />p><p>Légitime fierté que de poser avec les vins de ma collection qui figureront au dîner de ce soir.p><p>Le dernier vin à droite est Yquem 1961 offert par Pierre Lurton. Puis Yquem 1861, et les deux qui suivent, que j'avais pris en réserve (Yquem 1893 en demie-bouteille et Yquem 1938) ne seront pas bus car l'Yquem 1861 fut splendide. p>
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