<p>Il m'est arrivé plusieurs fois de faire des conférences dégustation pour les élèves de la célèbre pan style="color: blue;">école Cordon Bleupan> qui forme aux métiers du vin et de la gastronomie. C'est grâce à l'amitié qui me lie à pan style="color: blue;">Franck Ramagepan>, directeur des études. Le Cordon Bleu est depuis deux ans et demi dans un nouvel immeuble le long de la Seine où on peut accueillir plus de 3000 élèves par an, de toutes nationalités. Franck me fait monter en haut de l'immeuble où je trouve un jardin potager immense où toutes les herbes culinaires poussent. Il y a aussi des ruches. J'ai apporté des vins de ma cave pour sensibiliser les élèves au monde des vins anciens que leurs études ne leur donnent pas l'occasion de connaître. Je fais cela bénévolement pour essayer de faire passer mes idées sur l'importance que représentent les vins anciens.p> <p>Dans une magnifique salle de dégustation 18 élèves de toutes nationalités vont goûter les vins qui sont presque tous largement plus vieux qu'eux. Je suis venu une heure et demi avant la conférence pour ouvrir les vins, ce qui m'a permis ensuite de déjeuner dans la superbe cafétéria de l'école.p> <p>Nous commençons la dégustation par un pan style="color: red;">Château Bel Air Canon Fronsac 1978pan> qui a une acidité assez forte mais qui se montre d'une très belle énergie. Pour eux c'est un vin ancien alors que pour moi c'est encore un gamin.p> <p>Le pan style="color: red;">Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien 1975pan> a beaucoup plus de corps et un fruit étonnant de largeur. Il est charmeur et, comme je le souhaitais, il fait vaciller toutes les idées préconçues que l'on a sur les vins anciens. Car son énergie est immense.p> <p>J'ai voulu ensuite que l'on goûte ensemble deux vins séparés de plusieurs décennies. Le pan style="color: red;">Châteauneuf du Pape Clos de l'Oratoire 1999pan> est d'un équilibre parfait. Autant le 1978 faisait jeune, quasi un bambin, autant le 1999 montre des signes de belle maturité. Il est d'un équilibre rare.p> <p>Au premier contact avec le pan style="color: red;">Châteauneuf du Pape Château de Vaudieu 1964pan>, j'ai tendance à préférer le plus jeune Châteauneuf, mais dès que le 1964 s'épanouit dans le verre on jouit d'un vin plein, doux, agréable et d'une cohérence extrême. On voit donc que l'on peut aimer aussi bien le plus jeune que celui qui a dépassé le demi-siècle. Encore une fois, les idées préconçues tombent.p> <p>Le pan style="color: red;">Maury La Coume Du Roy 1925pan> est d'un charme confondant. Il est suave, doux, charmeur mais d'une force qu'aucun élève n'aurait imaginée. Un vin de 94 ans qui a ce charme et cette vivacité, comment est-ce possible pour cette jeune assistance captivée ?p> <p>Nous avons longuement bavardé et j'ai reçu ensuite des messages où certains élèves m'annoncent que désormais ils vont s'intéresser aux vins anciens. J'ai offert la possibilité à six d'entre eux de venir à la prochaine séance de l'académie des vins anciens. Grâce à de telles rencontres internationales, la cause des vins anciens sera mieux défendue. Il y a encore beaucoup à faire, mais petit à petit l'oiseau fait son nid. Longue vie au Cordon Bleu et longue vie aux vins anciens.p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_132627.jpg">p-image-40722" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_132627.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_132607.jpg">p-image-40721" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_132607.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_132528.jpg">p-image-40720" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_132528.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_132525.jpg">p-image-40719" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_132525.jpg" alt="" width="593" height="480" />p> <p>déjeuner à la cafétériap> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_130258.jpg">p-image-40717" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_130258.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="355" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_130301.jpg">p-image-40718" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_130301.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="345" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_212328.jpg">p-image-40725" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_212328.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="655" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122327.jpg">p-image-40711" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122327.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="469" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122133.jpg">p-image-40706" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122133.jpg" alt="" width="470" height="640" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122727.jpg">p-image-40712" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122727.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="316" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122139.jpg">p-image-40707" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122139.jpg" alt="" width="365" height="640" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_123205.jpg">p-image-40713" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_123205.jpg" alt="" width="382" height="336" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122145.jpg">p-image-40708" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122145.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="584" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_123606.jpg">p-image-40714" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_123606.jpg" alt="" width="376" height="336" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122149.jpg">p-image-40709" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122149.jpg" alt="" width="368" height="640" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_124330.jpg">p-image-40715" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_124330.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="347" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122152.jpg">p-image-40710" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_122152.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="640" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_124427.jpg">p-image-40716" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_124427.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="394" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_152420.jpg">p-image-40723" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_152420.jpg" alt="" width="515" height="480" />p> <p>ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_171650.jpg">p-image-40724" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190408_171650.jpg" alt="" width="788" height="600" />p> <p>p>

A dinner with 1937 Romanée Conti and some other rarities <p style="text-align: justify">My friend Tomo and I are getting offers from the same wine supplier. He sends an offer for a Romanée-Conti 1937. Alone, I would not buy it, but if we are two, it seems possible to me. Tomo agrees to share it because we are used to buying together. The supplier proposes to join us for drinking. It is agreed that everyone brings an extra bottle and the friend supplier pulls the first on the trigger by offering a rare bottle of Champagne Billecart-Salmon 1949. I propose to bring Yquem 1937, the year of the Romanée Conti and as Tomo hesitates to his contribution, I propose that he brings Yquem 1937 since he has it and I will bring a Corton-Charlemagne JF Coche-Dury 2003. We agree and Tomo launches: 'I will bring no doubt a surprise'. This is the door open to unreason because obviously we will all have a surprise.p> <p style="text-align: justify">I propose to do dinner at the pan style="color:blue">Taillevent restaurantpan>. At the date, at the same time as Tomo, I arrive at 17 hours to open the bottles and I have the chance to meet on my arrival the chef David Bizet with whom I will build the menu. We understand each other very easily.p> <p style="text-align: justify">The nose of the Corton-Charlemagne does not have the power of the olfactory bombs of the wines of Coche-Dury but it has an extreme elegance. It promises to be great. The bottle of Romanée Conti is absolutely illegible. How did our friend supplier find the name and year? Tomo gives me clues. There is the little crescent label that says it's a monopoly. One can read in very small letters the word "French", which can only correspond to Richebourg, but it is not monopoly or to Romanée Conti. The year is found thanks to a 7. There is no Romanée Conti 1947, the choice is between 1937, 1927 or 1917. Everything indicates that 1937 is the most realistic, especially as we guess the top of number 3.p> <p style="text-align: justify">The wax is completely removed on the top of the neck so that the cap is bare at the top of the neck. It comes in a thousand pieces because it sticks so much to the glass wall that it is necessary to tear small pieces that the tirebouchon cannot lift. Pieces fall into the wine and I have to catch most of it. The smell of wine is very compatible with that of a Romanée Conti but I am embarrassed by the fact that it is roasted. The wine has most likely been hit hot in a cellar. For wines as prestigious as this one, it's a pity because the sensible roasting will deprive us perhaps of the emotion of this masterpiece.p> <p style="text-align: justify">As if destiny wanted to make us a snub, the fragrance of Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses Faiveley Negociant 1929, the surprise of Tomo, is to die for. For me, it is the absolute perfection of the perfume of a Burgundy wine and it is the perfection also of a perfume of 1929. Then this wine could make shade to the star of this dinner. We will see. The fragrances offered by Château d'Yquem 1937 are divine. This wine is a count, what do I say it is a prince, what do I say it is an emperor! Its amber color is of a divine beauty. The 'surprise' wines of our friend and mine will not be open for now.p> <p style="text-align: justify">The opening operation being finished around 18 hours we have Tomo and I chatting while waiting for our friend.p> <p style="text-align: justify">The menu designed with chef pan style="color:blue">David Bizetpan> is: glazed veal sweetbreads, steamed morels with champagne / lobster in navarin, return of kitchen garden with pimpernel / pigeon with roasted blood with wild garlic, truffled black olive confit fillet of mature beef, morels with appetites, soufflé apples / cheese / mango pavlova with raw cream / salted butter financiers.p> <p style="text-align: justify">Half an hour before our friend arrives, I open his champagne. What a nice surprise to hear the sound of gas escaping. Pschitt is significant and very important for a champagne of this age. At the time of service we note that the pan style="color:red">Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut 1949pan> has the color of a young champagne. The bubble is rare and small but the sparkling is tasty. Champagne does not have a great tension but it is of a rare balance. It takes us to countries where we have no landmark. What is striking is ease, balance and charm. It's a very big champagne. I had asked that the sweetbread be calm and light. What is served to us is a beautiful dish as a dish, but too strong for the subtle champagne.p> <p style="text-align: justify">The pan style="color:red">Corton-Charlemagne J.F. Coche-Dury 2003pan> does not have the usual power of the Corton-Charlemagne of this famous house. It is of a rare complexity and amazes me by its subtle evocations. We thought we were meeting an athlete and we are facing a young poet. What a charm, what infinite complexities! I think I have never drunk a Corton-Charlemagne Coche-Dury so exceptional. All the subtlety registers are surpassed. The deal with lobster is ideal but we should have done without vegetables that bring consistency to the dish but add nothing to wine.p> <p style="text-align: justify">For the two dishes of meat, pigeon and beef, we will drink together the two red wines. Before the dish of pigeon is served, the pan style="color:red">Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses Faiveley Negociant 1929pan> with the ideal perfume is dashing. We immediately feel that it is a Premier Cru and that it does not have the stature of a Grand Cru, despite the fact that it is very exciting to drink, juicy and bloody. Beside him, the pan style="color:red">Romanée Conti Domain of the Romanée Conti 1937pan> still has a roasted nose and its heavy and powerful mouth makes this side appear a little burnt which does not prevent to be pleasant, because, one feels it well, the wine is big.p> <p style="text-align: justify">We are served the pigeon. What happiness that none of us is dogmatic! Because there is a small miracle. The magnificent flesh of the pigeon and especially its sauce completely erase the roasted appearance and we discover a true Romanée Conti, vibrant. I even find the salt so beautiful that was hiding until then. We have the demonstration that the wines need to rub to a suitable dish to shine. And we are happy because our fears no longer exist. Although the mature meat is excellent, it is especially the supreme of the pigeon that gives the Romanée Conti its true grandeur. The 1929 is very small next to the 1937 whereas before the dishes it was much more pleasant and distinguished, as it must be a great wine of 1929.p> <p style="text-align: justify">We wanted so much to share a great Romanée Conti that we take full advantage of this rare moment. But there is a sign that does not deceive. Usually one finds in the dregs a supplement of soul because it concentrates all the personality of the wine. But I found the dregs of Romanée Conti less frisky than the wine itself. It is enough, however, that we have had a beautiful moment of grace to make us happy.p> <p style="text-align: justify">What was left of Corton-Charlemagne was very suitable for mature meat and also for excellent cheeses, in my case, a saint-nectaire.p> <p style="text-align: justify">It is now the arrival of the pan style="color:red">Château d'Yquem 1937pan>. Like the Corton Charlemagne this wine is not thundering, which develops even more its elegance. It's a huge Yquem, probably the best of the seven Yquem 1937s I've drunk. What a great wine of infinite magic, without too much botrytis and good acidity. Wines like this give the image of perfection.p> <p style="text-align: justify">Enter the surprise of our friend, a pan style="color:red">Champagne Pommery rosé 1934pan>. Its color is very beautiful and very young, the bubble is weak but the sparkling is there. What fascinates me is that it is possible to switch from Yquem to champagne rosé and vice versa without the slightest problem, as if they were playmates. I had asked financiers pastries for this rosé. They are probably the best financiers I have ever tasted. The mango dessert is only for the Yquem and sweet pavlova is not necessarily its best friend. The Yquem well supports the financiers planned for the champagne.p> <p style="text-align: justify">Now comes my surprise that will be one for me too. I had bought Marc de rosé bottles from Ott 1929 and found this marc of immense interest. During a second order of this marc, I received bottles with pink liquid and at the same time two bottles with liquid so clear that I imagined that it was water. When I opened the bottle before the meal, the water hypothesis no longer existed. It was the surprise of my surprise! This pan style="color:red">Ott Marc Blanc 1929pan> has no charm at all. It looks more like a slightly bitter grappa. He is very manly compared to his pink cousin. We do not insist.p> <p style="text-align: justify">We are three to vote for our five favorite wines on six wines, the alcohol not being in competition. For Tomo, his winner is the Billecart Salmon and for the friend and me it is the Corton-Charlemagne who is our number one. I almost got scraped when I ranked Pommery rosé before Billecart Salmon but I was very impressed by the Pommery's ability to coexist with the Yquem.p> <p style="text-align: justify">The consensus ranking would be: 1 - Corton-Charlemagne JF Coche-Dury 2003, 2 - Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut 1949, 3 - Château d'Yquem 1937, 4 - Romanée Conti Domaine Romanée Conti 1937, 5 - Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses Faiveley Negociant 1929.p> <p style="text-align: justify">My classification is: pan style="color:blue">1 - Corton-Charlemagne J.F. Coche-Dury 2003, 2 - Château d'Yquem 1937, 3 - Romanée Conti Domaine of Romanée Conti 1937, 4 - Champagne Pommery rosé 1934, 5 - Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut 1949pan>.p> <p style="text-align: justify"> &nbsp; <p style="text-align: justify">The appetizers at the beginning of the meal are of a certain refinement which shows the talent of the chef, promised to the most beautiful destinies. All dishes were outstanding but the first two, sweetbreads and lobster were treated more as dishes than as wine guides. On the contrary the following dishes were ideal for the wines.p> <p style="text-align: justify">Anastasia, the sommelier who accompanied us on this magical trip did an excellent service. One of the great qualities of Taillevent is its ability to adapt to all situations. This meal was exemplary, with memorable wines. And the Romanée Conti 1937 will be a great memory.p>

Mon ami Tomo et moi recevons des offres du même fournisseur de vins. Il envoie une offre pour une Romanée-Conti 1937. Tout seul, je ne l'achèterais pas, mais à deux, ça me semble possible. Tomo est d'accord de la partager car nous avons l'habitude de ces achats en commun. Le fournisseur propose de se joindre à nous pour la boire. Il est convenu que chacun apporte une bouteille supplémentaire et l'ami fournisseur tire le premier en proposant une rarissime bouteille de Champagne Billecart-Salmon 1949. Je propose d'apporter Yquem 1937, de l'année de la Romanée Conti et comme Tomo hésite pour son apport, je propose qu'il apporte Yquem 1937 puisqu'il en a et j'apporterai un Corton-Charlemagne J.F. Coche-Dury 2003. Nous sommes d'accord et Tomo lance : 'j'apporterai sans doute une surprise'. C'est la porte ouverte à la déraison car bien évidemment nous aurons tous une surprise. Je propose de faire le pan style="color: blue;">dîner au restaurant Tailleventpan> et compte-tenu de la forme que prend ce dîner il sera compté comme le pan style="color: blue;">235p>èmep> dîner de wine-dinnerspan>, même si les apports ne proviennent pas tous de ma cave, ce qui est l'usage pour ces dîners. Le jour dit, en même temps que Tomo, j'arrive à 17 heures pour ouvrir les bouteilles et j'ai la chance de rencontrer à mon arrivée le chef pan style="color: blue;">David Bizetpan> avec lequel je vais bâtir le menu. Nous nous comprenons très aisément. Le nez du Corton-Charlemagne n'a pas la puissance des bombes olfactives des vins de Coche-Dury mais il a une élégance extrême. Il promet d'être grand. La bouteille de la Romanée Conti est absolument illisible. Comment notre ami fournisseur a-t-il pu trouver le nom et l'année ? Tomo me donne des indices. Il y a la petite étiquette en forme de croissant qui indique que c'est un monopole. On peut lire en toutes petites lettre le mot « française », ce qui ne peut correspondre qu'au Richebourg, mais il n'est pas monopole ou à la Romanée Conti. L'année est trouvée grâce à un 7. Il n'y a pas de Romanée Conti 1947, le choix est donc entre 1937, 1927 ou 1917. Tout indique que 1937 est la plus réaliste, d'autant qu'on devine le haut du chiffre 3. La cire est entièrement enlevée sur le haut du goulot ce qui fait que le bouchon est nu en haut du goulot. Il vient en mille morceaux car il colle tellement à la paroi de verre qu'il faut déchirer des petits morceaux que le tirebouchon ne parvient pas à lever. Des morceaux tombent dans le vin et je dois en repêcher la plus grande partie. L'odeur du vin est très compatible avec celle d'une Romanée Conti mais je suis gêné par le fait qu'elle est torréfiée. Le vin a très probablement subi un coup de chaud dans une cave. Pour des vins aussi prestigieux que celui-ci, c'est dommage car la torréfaction sensible nous privera peut-être de l'émotion de ce chef-d'œuvre. Comme si le destin voulait nous faire un pied de nez, le parfum du Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses Faiveley Négociant 1929, la surprise de Tomo, est à se damner. Pour moi, c'est la perfection absolue du parfum d'un vin de Bourgogne et c'est la perfection aussi d'un parfum de 1929. Alors ce vin fera-t-il de l'ombre à la star de ce dîner. Nous verrons. Les fragrances qu'offre le Château d'Yquem 1937 sont divines. Ce vin, c'est un comte, que dis-je c'est un prince, que dis-je c'est un empereur. Sa couleur ambrée est d'une beauté divine. Les vins 'surprises' de notre ami et la mienne ne seront pas ouverts pour l'instant. L'opération d'ouverture étant finie vers 18 heures il nous reste Tomo et moi à bavarder en attendant notre ami. Le menu conçu avec le chef David Bizet est : ris de veau laqué, morilles étuvées au champagne / homard de casier en navarin, retour de potager à la pimprenelle / pigeon au sang rôti à l'ail des ours, confit d'olive noire truffé / filet de bœuf maturé, morilles aux appétits, pommes soufflées / fromage / mangue en pavlova à la crème crue / financiers au beurre salé. Une demi-heure avant que notre ami n'arrive, j'ouvre son champagne. Quelle belle surprise d'entendre le bruit du gaz qui s'échappe. Le pschitt est significatif et très important pour cet âge. Au moment du service nous constatons que le pan style="color: red;">Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut 1949pan> a la couleur d'un jeune champagne. La bulle est rare et petite mais le pétillant est savoureux. Le champagne n'a pas une grande tension mais il est d'un équilibre rare. Il nous emmène dans des contrées où nous n'avons pas de repère. Ce qui frappe c'est l'aisance, l'équilibre et le charme. C'est un très grand champagne. J'avais demandé que le ris de veau soit calme et léger. Ce qui nous est servi est un plat magnifique en tant que plat, mais trop fort pour le subtil champagne. Le pan style="color: red;">Corton-Charlemagne J.F. Coche-Dury 2003pan> n'a pas la puissance habituelle des Corton-Charlemagne de cette grande maison. Il est d'une complexité rare et me stupéfie par ses évocations subtiles. On pensait rencontrer un athlète et l'on est face à un jeune poète. Quel charme, quelles complexités infinies. Je crois n'avoir jamais bu un Corton-Charlemagne de Coche-Dury aussi exceptionnel. Tous les registres de subtilité sont surpassés. L'accord avec le homard est idéal mais on aurait dû se passer des légumes qui apportent une cohérence au plat mais n'ajoutent rien au vin. Pour les deux plats de viande, de pigeon et de bœuf, nous boirons ensemble les deux vins rouges. Avant que le plat de pigeon ne soit servi, le pan style="color: red;">Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses Faiveley Négociant 1929pan> au parfum idéal est fringant. On sent tout de suite que c'est un premier cru et qu'il n'a pas la stature d'un grand cru, malgré le fait qu'il soit très passionnant à boire juteux et sanguin. A côte de lui, la pan style="color: red;">Romanée Conti Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1937pan> a toujours le nez torréfié et sa bouche lourde et puissante fait apparaître ce côté un peu brûlé qui n'empêche pas de se faire plaisir, car, on le sent bien, le vin est grand. On nous sert le pigeon. Quel bonheur qu'aucun de nous ne soit dogmatique ! Car il se produit un petit miracle. La magnifique chair du pigeon et surtout sa sauce effacent totalement l'aspect torréfié et nous découvrons une vraie Romanée Conti, vibrante. Je retrouve même le sel si beau qui se cachait jusqu'alors. Nous avons la démonstration que les vins ont besoin de se frotter à un plat adapté pour briller. Et nous sommes heureux car nos craintes n'existent plus. Bien que la viande maturée soit excellente, c'est surtout le suprême du pigeon qui donne à la Romanée Conti sa vraie grandeur. Le 1929 se fait tout petit à côté du 1937 alors qu'avant les plats il se montrait beaucoup plus agréable et racé, comme le doit être un grand vin de 1929. Nous souhaitions tellement partager une grande Romanée Conti que nous profitons pleinement de ce rare moment. Mais il y a un signe qui ne trompe pas. D'habitude on trouve dans la lie un supplément d'âme car elle concentre toute la personnalité du vin. Or j'ai trouvé la lie de la Romanée Conti moins fringante que le vin lui-même. Il suffit cependant que nous ayons connu un bel instant de grâce pour que nous soyons heureux. Ce qui restait du Corton-Charlemagne s'est montré très adapté à la viande maturée et aussi sur d'excellents fromages, dans mon cas, un saint-nectaire. C'est maintenant l'arrivée du pan style="color: red;">Château d'Yquem 1937pan>. Comme le Corton Charlemagne ce vin n'est pas tonitruant, ce qui développe encore plus son élégance. C'est un immense Yquem, très probablement le meilleur des sept Yquem 1937 que j'ai bus. Quel grand vin d'une magie infinie, sans trop de botrytis et à la belle acidité. Des vins comme celui-ci donnent l'image de la perfection. Entre en piste la surprise de notre ami, un pan style="color: red;">Champagne Pommery rosé 1934pan>. Sa couleur est très belle et très jeune, la bulle est faible mais le pétillant est là. Ce qui me fascine, c'est qu'il est possible de passer de l'Yquem au champagne rosé et inversement sans le moindre problème, comme s'ils étaient des compagnons de jeu. J'avais demandé des financiers pour ce rosé. Ce sont probablement les meilleurs financiers que j'aie goûtés. Le dessert à la mangue n'est fait que pour l'Yquem et la pavlova sucrée n'est pas forcément sa meilleure amie. L'Yquem supporte bien les financiers prévus pour le champagne. Vient maintenant ma surprise qui en sera une aussi pour moi. J'avais acheté des bouteilles de Marc de rosé d'Ott 1929 et j'avais trouvé ce marc d'un immense intérêt. Lors d'une deuxième commande de ce marc, j'ai reçu des bouteilles au liquide bien rose et en même temps deux bouteilles au liquide si clair que j'ai imaginé qu'il s'agisse de l'eau. Quand j'ai ouvert la bouteille avant le repas, l'hypothèse de l'eau n'existait plus. C'était la surprise de ma surprise ! Ce pan style="color: red;">Marc blanc d'Ott 1929pan> n'a pas du tout le charme des marcs de rosés. Il ressemble plus à une Grappa légèrement amère. Il est très viril par rapport à son cousin rosé. Nous n'insistons pas. Nous sommes trois à voter pour nos cinq vins préférés sur six vins, l'alcool n'étant pas en compétition. Pour Tomo, son vainqueur est le Billecart Salmon et pour l'ami et moi c'est le Corton-Charlemagne qui est notre numéro un. J'ai failli me faire écharper lorsque j'ai classé le Pommery rosé devant le Billecart Salmon mais j'ai été très impressionné par la faculté du Pommery à coexister avec l'Yquem Le classement du consensus serait : 1 - Corton-Charlemagne J.F. Coche-Dury 2003, 2 - Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut 1949, 3 - Château d'Yquem 1937, 4 - Romanée Conti Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1937, 5 - Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses Faiveley Négociant 1929. Mon classement est : pan style="color: blue;">1 - Corton-Charlemagne J.F. Coche-Dury 2003, 2 - Château d'Yquem 1937, 3 - Romanée Conti Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1937, 4 - Champagne Pommery rosé 1934, 5 - Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut 1949pan>. Les amuse-bouches en début de repas sont d'un raffinement certain qui montre le talent du chef, promis aux plus belles destinées. Tous les plats ont été remarquables mais les deux premiers, le ris de veau et le homard ont été traités plus comme des plats que comme des accompagnateurs des vins. Au contraire les plats suivants ont été idéaux pour les vins. pan style="color: blue;">Anastasiapan>, la sommelière qui nous a accompagnés dans ce voyage magique a fait un excellent service. Une des grandes qualités du Taillevent c'est sa capacité à s'adapter à toutes les situations. Ce repas fut exemplaire, avec des vins mémorables. Et la Romanée Conti 1937 sera un grand souvenir. ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171727.jpg">p-image-40638" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171727.jpg" alt="" width="629" height="600" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171739.jpg">p-image-40639" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171739.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="526" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171744.jpg">p-image-40640" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171744.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="448" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_190747.jpg">p-image-40663" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_190747.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="365" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_190820.jpg">p-image-40664" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_190820.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="374" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_193332.jpg">p-image-40667" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_193332.jpg" alt="" width="421" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_141804.jpg">p-image-40636" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_141804.jpg" alt="" width="366" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_144134.jpg">p-image-40637" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_144134.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="541" /> 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ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171830.jpg">p-image-40643" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171830.jpg" alt="" width="304" height="448" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_174449.jpg">p-image-40656" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_174449.jpg" alt="" width="359" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_175147.jpg">p-image-40658" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_175147.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="249" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_175120.jpg">p-image-40657" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_175120.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="566" /> 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ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171856.jpg">p-image-40646" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171856.jpg" alt="" width="353" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171900.jpg">p-image-40647" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171900.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="440" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171920.jpg">p-image-40648" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171920.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="308" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171945.jpg">p-image-40649" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_171945.jpg" alt="" width="441" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_175313.jpg">p-image-40660" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_175313.jpg" alt="" width="425" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_204351.jpg">p-image-40673" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_204351.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="448" /> les couleurs des deux rouges, le 1929 et le 1937 ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_204358.jpg">p-image-40674" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_204358.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172003.jpg">p-image-40650" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172003.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="632" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172007.jpg">p-image-40651" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172007.jpg" alt="" width="355" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172021.jpg">p-image-40652" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172021.jpg" alt="" width="360" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_180400.jpg">p-image-40661" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_180400.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="369" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_180419.jpg">p-image-40662" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_180419.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="346" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_192653.jpg">p-image-40665" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_192653.jpg" alt="" width="383" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_192710.jpg">p-image-40666" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_192710.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="518" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_224724.jpg">p-image-40678" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_224724.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="377" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172056.jpg">p-image-40653" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172056.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="579" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172902.jpg">p-image-40654" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_172902.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="287" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_193646.jpg">p-image-40668" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_193646.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_195614.jpg">p-image-40669" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_195614.jpg" alt="" width="355" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_202438.jpg">p-image-40671" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_202438.jpg" alt="" width="359" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_205707-1.jpg">p-image-40681" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_205707-1.jpg" alt="" width="384" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_213812.jpg">p-image-40676" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_213812.jpg" alt="" width="363" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_222855.jpg">p-image-40677" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20190404_222855.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/menu-Taillevent-190404.jpg">p-image-40684" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/menu-Taillevent-190404.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="725" />

<p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The genesis of this dinner is quite original. The day a dinner was held at the Hotel de Crillon, I received an email proposing me to buy a Richebourg Domaine de la Romanée Conti Vigne Original French not reconstituted 1942. I already drank these prephylloxeric Richebourgs with exceptional qualities on the vintages 1930, 1935 and 1943 and perhaps others for which I might not have paid attention to this specificity marked on the label. The proposed price takes into account the rarity of this wine. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The atmosphere of the dinner being particularly friendly, I propose to my guests that we buy together this wine. I would then embroider the program of a dinner around this wine. Eight of the eleven guests agree to be co-owners. I build a wine list by choosing a theme to accompany the wine of 1942, which will be: the five great whites of Curnonsky, the "prince of gastronomes". The idea pleases my guests, and we will meet this evening at the pan style="color:blue">restaurant Pagespan>. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">By construction, there should be no newbies in this meal but the wife of a guest gave her seat to her young son who is a great lover of wine. As he understands quickly, the instructions on board will be given very quickly. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">When I bought the Richebourg, I received photos on the e-mail. When my supplier delivered the bottle, the pale pink color slightly purplish would have led me not to buy it but there, I had no choice, I could not withdraw because dinner was already on track. So I planned safely another Richebourg 1942 from my cellar, but not from prephylloxeric vines. History will show that I did not need it. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">At 16:30 I go to the restaurant Pages to open the wines. Curiously, almost all white wines have black dusts exuding on the top of the cork. Is it chance or weather-related, I do not know. The cork of the Coulée de Serrant 1976 is magnificent. Other plugs break but do not pose any particular problem. The Coulée de Serrant has a frank and engaging fragrance. That of Château Grillet 1982 is nonexistent, as the wine seems closed. That of Montrachet 1992 is brilliant. The uncertainty could be that of the two wines of 1942. Which perfumes will they offer? The nose of Château Margaux 1942 I like a lot. The wine is likely to be brilliant. The perfume of Richebourg 1942 is promising. Phew! It is very characteristic of the estate's wines, with a small salty background. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">My fears no longer exist because the Château Chalon 1976 is triumphant. The perfume of 1941 Yquem is by far the most beautiful, glorious as the gold of her dress. pan style="color:blue">Lumipan> knows I like having a beer after the opening session, especially when, as tonight, the opening suggests that there will be no problem. The beer arrives without my asking. It's high class. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">pan style="color:blue">Matthewpan> the excellent sommelier opens the champagnes an hour before the arrival of the guests. They are all on time, it's a dream. We are eight, including two women. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The aperitif is taken with the pan style="color:red">Champagne Pierre Péters Réserve Oubliée Blanc de Blancs without yearpan>. I do not remember very well the vintages that make up this champagne but I think there are some of them aged up to 1937. Champagne shows that it has some old champagnes in it but it is still a young maturity. Of the three amuse-bouches only one makes it vibrate, the one which contains eggs of salmon with the strong taste which excites the Peters. The others are too neutral for the champagne to be of a certain laziness. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The menu created for this dinner by pan style="color:blue">Chef Teshipan> and pan style="color:blue">Kenpan> and pan style="color:blue">Yukipan> and the team: Appetizers / Saffron Risotto with Cockles and Parsley / Caramelized Cod, "umami" sauce with Haddock Broth / Carré de Veau du Perche, Sauce with creamed champagne, glazed turnips / Vendée pigeon, salmis sauce, parsnip / Poached foie gras / Stuffed morels with duck leg confit, beef jus / Comté 15 months / White vanilla cake with white chocolate, pink grapefruit and mango. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">pan style="color:red">Champagne Jacques Selosse Substance disgorged 07/13pan> shows a certain qualitative leap and an exemplary liveliness. What fascinates me is its endless finale where frolic beautiful pink fruit. It is racy, lively, and the delicious cockles are a treat on this champagne. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The cod will be accompanied by two of the five Curnonsky wines. The pan style="color:red">Clos de la Coulée de Serrant A. Joly 1976pan> leads us on infrequent tracks. It is well structured and makes us find flavors of the Loire, with extreme finesse. We are in a range of unusual but exciting tastes. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The pan style="color:red">Château Grillet 1982pan> has a slightly corky nose, but everything disappears in the mouth when the wine is associated with the dish. The haddock broth makes it interesting and the faults do not reappear until the dish is gone. It does not bring enough emotion and it's a shame because this wine that is the only one in his appellation that bears his name is a curiosity. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">My guests are surprised that I chose a calf low temperature to accompany the pan style="color:red">Montrachet Robert Gibourg 1992pan> and they are even more surprised when they note that the agreement is exceptional, the most beautiful meal agreement. Montrachet, third wine of Curnonsky, is of a rare accuracy. It does not have the power of some montrachets and it fits to him divinely well because it is impregnating, without forcing. This wine is the ideal white, fleshy and expressive. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The pigeon is a marvel, cooked divinely. How is it possible that a pan style="color:red">Château Margaux 1942pan> has the same wonderful richness as a Margaux of a very big year. In blind tasting, no one would ever think of 1942. The wine is noble, with proud carriage and broad shoulders. It has an intense taste of truffle of an exceptional Bordeaux. I am so enthusiastic about his unexpected performance that I will put it first in my vote, despite the love I have for the next wine. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">Ken, the chef who works alongside Teshi, had planned to serve poached foie gras along with morels. I wanted to have only the liver for the pan style="color:red">Richebourg Domaine de la Romanée Conti Vigne Original French not reconstituted 1942pan>. The first glass that is served to me shows a pale pink color that would discourage any amateur who does not know the colors of the Domaine's wines. At the first sip, I know that we will drink an exceptional wine that has the soul of the wines of the Domaine of Romanée Conti. What a charm, what a courteous speech! I swoon so much I'm happy that this wine that I may have discarded, wrongly, is also attractive with its message where salt is a strong marker. The agreement with the foie gras is superb but the champagne sauce Pommery 1953 is a bit strong for the wine. What a pleasure to drink such a refined wine that smiles at the audacious ones that we were to form a consortium to acquire it. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">This is the pan style="color:red">Château Chalon Tissot 1976pan>, the fourth of Curnonsky wines, which will inherit powerful and filled morels that would not have agreed to the Burgundy wine because of their power, but marry to delight with the powerful and harmonious wine of the Jura. He finds a better flight, because it is his ideal partner, with the Comté of fifteen months of ripening. It is a classic accord, probably one of the most beautiful of the gastronomy. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The fifth and last wine of Curnonsky is the pan style="color:red">1941 Chateau d'Yquempan> with a diabolically sensual scent and the color of a glorious gold. I recently loved a very nice dessert made by the talented Yuki pastry chef of the restaurant, but the chocolate dessert does not vibrate the Yquem. Pink grapefruit is more relevant but it is mostly the mango that best suits this powerful Yquem, much more than I imagined, and greedy, rich in golden fruit. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">We chatted about Curnonsky's ranking of the world's five greatest white wines, which he established in the 1930s. If we were to do it today, it is likely that Coulée de Serrant and Château Grillet would not be included. I would suggest the Clos Sainte Hune of Trimbach and the White Hermitage of Chave as possible candidates to appear in this elite. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">We are eight to vote for the five favorite of the nine wines. Three wines stand out, the Montrachet which like the Richebourg has three first votes and the Margaux who has two first votes. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The consensus ranking is: 1 - Richebourg Domaine de la Romanée Conti Vigne Original French unreconstituted 1942, 2 - Montrachet Robert Gibourg 1992, 3 - Château Margaux 1942, 4 - Château d'Yquem 1941, 5 - Champagne Jacques Selosse Substance disgorged 07 / 13, 6 - Château Grillet 1982. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">My classification is: pan style="color:blue">1 - Château Margaux 1942, 2 - Richebourg Domaine de la Romanée Conti Vine Original French unreconstituted 1942, 3 - Montrachet Robert Gibourg 1992, 4 - Champagne Jacques Selosse Substance disgorged 07/13pan>. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The dishes were more successful one than the others and the most beautiful chords are those which were created with the three winning wines, the veal with the montrachet, the pigeon with the Margaux and the foie gras poached with the Richebourg. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">The atmosphere was smiling, because of our complicity and the guests are waiting for one thing is that I offer them new purchases for new adventures. I have heard that they would be happy if I propose a dinner with a Romanée Conti. pan> <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">Matthew's service was perfect. The kitchen has done an exceptional job of finding the best food and wine pairings. Making a dinner at Pages restaurant with such a motivated team is a privilege and a real pleasure. pan> <p style="text-align: justify"> &nbsp; <p style="text-align: justify">pan style="font-size:12pt">(see pictures of this dinner in the article in French) pan>