Dali, basket, Wynwood mercredi, 24 février 2016

dinner in Bern’s Steak House with 1907, 1913, 1916, 1920 wines lundi, 22 février 2016

I am fascinated by the work of pan style="color: #0000ff;">Bern Laxerpan> who founded pan style="color: #0000ff;">Bern's Steak House in Tampapan>. He has accumulated wines to the point that the wine cellar represented up to two million bottles. Since his death the cellar is today "only" six hundred thousand bottles. He is a man who trusted the old wines to the point that there is still some Bordeaux from 19th century in the cellar. When I came the first time, a sympathy happened immediately with pan style="color: #0000ff;">Brad Dixonpan>, head sommelier, who handles sales of wines for more than ten million dollars for the only activity of the wines served at the restaurant table . Brad having understood my passion for old wines had said, "if you had come there twenty years ago, you would have tasted treasures" because due to the reputation of the restaurant, all the great years such as 1900, 1928, 1929 have been decimated. And there are only few very old wines whose conservation is increasingly uncertain, wine levels in the bottles have fallen and colors being increasingly tiled. Brad said he hardly sells more of these relics which are in the cellar for more a symbol than to be enjoyed. Nevertheless, of the two meals I have experienced in Bern's, I chose wines over a hundred years and I have had only good surprises. Although with Brad, we chose the most beautiful. Tonight I'm having dinner with my son and my youngest daughter, my wife took the view that do ten hours’ drive, five to go and five return for a steak, not to drink wine, is not for her a real attraction. My son had received by mail the list of wines from Bern's, which has 174 pages and about thirty lines per page. I selected 19 wines from the younger 1961 to 1888 with 13 wines having hundred years or more. I submitted for approval to Brad. Brad told me that he had watched the 19 wines and five could hold my attention, others being with uncertain color. We arrive at 4 pm in the restaurant and we are welcomed by Brad who receives us with a pleasant smile. The five wines await my verdict. There are Bel Air Marquis d'Aligre 1961, Pontet Canet 1916, Léoville Poyferré 1901, Haut-Bailly 1913 and 1926 La Gaffelière Naudes. Colors except one are engaging, but the levels of all the bottles are low. You really have to be passionate to tackle these bottles. I told Brad I'll open the bottles in order of age, oldest first. I will open three and a fourth if there is a problem. Brad left me in the hands of pan style="color: #0000ff;">Chrispan>, who keeps and arranges the cellar. I open the wines in the cellar where it is very cold and Chris illuminates the work surface because the cellar is very dark. I want to open the 1901 Léoville Poyferré. The label is handwritten and when touching the capsule I see it very clearly marked "Château Latour 1920". The capsule is a rare beauty and by its age, it is clear that the wine is a Latour 1920 and it is a labeling error at Bern's. I had in mind drinking wine over a hundred years, so Chris gets me the other Léoville Poyferré 1901. There are five and none found favor in my eyes. So I will keep Latour 1920. The first bottle I open is that of Haut-Bailly 1913. The cork resistant, comes in pieces. The smell is very interesting because there is a pretty good red fruit. But there is a hint of acidity which I hope will disappear. The fruit looks pretty. I then open the Pontet-Canet 1916 for having a bottle of just a hundred years, when the Verdun centenary is celebrated where my grandfather was seriously wounded, is a strong symbol. The cork comes to shreds because there is an incredible bulge inside the neck which means that the cork is torn and crumbles when pulled on. The scent of the wine is less fruity and less appreciated by my daughter but I believe in it because I feel it will blossom nicely. You should know that these are very fragile wines. I finally open the Château Latour 1920 whose cork is incredibly dry and breaks because it sticks to the neck. Perfume is also quiet but perhaps a bit more square. The three fragrances seem possible and do not require that I open a fourth bottle. If there is a nasty surprise in the service, I ask that Chris keeps the Château La Gaffelière Naudes 1926 I think I can open even if at the last moment, because Saint-Emilion is particularly strong in those years, 1928 and 1929 have always been strong when I drank them. My daughter is frozen and quickly leaves the cellar. We go out. My son will ride a bike, on loan from the hotel, in the beautiful residential areas of the old Tampa, my daughter will swim in the hotel pool and on my side I write this account about opening wines with the hope that they illuminate our evening despite the enormous risks of wines so old and with quite low levels. If Brad sells less wines of this age, there is also another reason. If they are open at the last moment in the restaurant room, there is already the problem of time spent to open them, then, to see the inconvenience of corks’ parts making mess all around and finally the fact that the wines do not have time to recover by slow oxygenation, so crucial for their return to life. Drinking wines whose average age is 98 years, with two of my children, it will, I hope, a unique pleasure. When we go to the restaurant at 7:30 pm, time of our reservation, we are at least thirty to wait in the lobby a waiter who comes to drive us to the table. I go to pan style="color: #0000ff;">Frank Russopan> the restaurant manager to say hello and he remembers me. It is he who leads us to our table, and pan style="color: #0000ff;">Paulpan>, our server, will take care of us. On the table, the three bottles were just being laid and the three saucers containing the torn and shredded corks. This is Brad himself who advises us the choice of menu. For me it will be snails which, in the United States, cannot be served in their shells, then a piece of beef called Demonico, my son and I take for 16 ounces, which is unreasonable, with a gratin potatoes. Brad says he thinks the labeling error Léoville-POYFERRE 1901 was made in the 60s by Christie's when the bottles were bought by Bern's. And he said, "this wine has been recorded in our books in 1960 as Léoville-POYFERRE 1901. I'm a bargain you selling it and you make a big deal since you drink a Latour 1920 at the price of my inventory" . The moon, full on that day, although inspired me. Brad asks me if I want to make by myself the service of wines. He knows the answer: I take charge and I will offer to Brad to drink a glass of wine each. The perception of wine before we did eat a dish is very different from what we have when the meal begins. At this stage the pan style="color: #ff0000;">1913 Château Haut-Baillypan> has a nice fruity nose, a lovely delicate attack, in the fruit, but a final a little bitter, which limits the pleasure. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">1916 Château Pontet-Canetpan> has a quieter nose, the wine shows great balance but still a great emotion and pan style="color: #ff0000;">Château Latour 1920pan> is noble, seated, barely sugary, high personable. It is the color of Pontet-Canet which is the most brick-red, barely, and the most beautiful is that of Haut-Bailly. When we eat the panorama changes and it will vary slowly throughout the meal. When we eat, the weakness I found in the final of the Haut-Bailly disappears and the wine grows, romantic and delightfully feminine. It is he who has the most charm. The three wines are growing in contact with food. Pontet-Canet shows solid, but as it is square and the Latour is more than him, adding to the nobility, the ranking which was: 1920, 1916, 1913 becomes 1920, 1913, 1916. What most strikes me is that the three wines become great wines, pleasant to drink, with nice subtleties. Haut-Bailly is 'charm', the Pontet-Canet is 'structure' and Latour is 'nobility'. And the three I like and I wonder how it is possible that these three wines are as good at such ages and as their levels were between mid and low shoulder, Haut-Bailly being the lowest. I think the secret is the examination of their color under a flood lamp, which allows to see the wines that have retained their vitality. Snails are delicious, the meat is tasty and typical, with about 60 days of maturation, the potatoes are eaten with relish, so all is well even if it is impossible to eat it all. I prefer for cooking Japanese Wagyu there to grilling, but the meat is good. The more time passes, the more refined delicacy of Haut-Bailly is expanding, even if Latour is very large. I pour bottles of funds into new glasses to better enjoy. The review of the lees is always revealing. The lees demonstrate the extreme vitality of the three wines. I prefer the dregs of the Haut-Bailly, that of Latour is softer and therefore less vibrant. Brad that allowed me to all three dinners to choose the bottles in the cellar, for three dinners where all wines which shown life, and more than alive, refined. Brad said, "it would seem to prove that your method of opening is good." I think the examination of colors counts for a lot. Latour 1920 is the largest of the three wines because its material is more noble, but it is ultimately the Haut-Bailly 1913 that will have the bonus of originality and charm that wins the prize in our hearts. Brad gave us a tour of the premises, large rooms, and impressive kitchens. This place is a hive, all staff from all functions being 200 employees, serving 1,100 customers tonight. He tells us all inventions of this visionary Bern Laxer, who practiced vertical integration by creating farms for cows that give superb meats that ripen in cold rooms, building insulation itself from its cellars, manufacturing all kitchen utensils, coffee roasters and machines make roasted onion rings. The passage in the cellar, he made us taste a pan style="color: #ff0000;">Blandy Madeira Bual 1907pan> delightfully delicious and intense. A delight. Launched Brad tells a lot of stories about wine and he gives me a half bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pierre Ponnelle 1961 I hasten to drink to his health. Bern Laxer created an extraordinary restaurant, thought to detail in innovative precursor. With his creative genius, we could drink tonight three historic wines before, middle and after the Great War. It was a memorable meal.

Miami 5 – ouverture des vins et dîner au Bern’s Steak House dimanche, 21 février 2016

Je suis fasciné par l’œuvre de pan style="color: #0000ff;">Bern Laxerpan> qui a fondé le pan style="color: #0000ff;">Bern’s Steak House à Tampapan>. Il a accumulé des vins au point que sa cave a représenté jusqu’à deux millions de bouteilles. Depuis sa mort la cave ne représente plus « que » six cent mille bouteilles. C’est un homme qui a fait confiance aux vins anciens au point qu’il reste encore quelques bordeaux du 19p>èmep> siècle.p> Lorsque je suis venu la première fois, un courant s’est immédiatement créé avec pan style="color: #0000ff;">Brad Dixonpan> le chef sommelier, qui gère un chiffre d’affaires de vins de plus de dix millions de dollars pour la seule activité des vins servis à la table du restaurant.p> Brad ayant compris ma passion pour les vins anciens m’avait dit : « si vous étiez venu il y a vingt ans, vous auriez pu goûter des trésors » car du fait de la réputation du restaurant, tous les grandes années comme 1900, 1928, 1929 ont été épuisées. Et il ne reste que peu de vins très anciens dont la conservation est de plus en plus incertaine, les niveaux des vins dans les bouteilles ayant baissé et les couleurs étant de plus en plus tuilées. Brad me dit qu’il ne vend pratiquement plus de ces reliques qui sont dans la cave plus pour le symbole que pour le plaisir.p> Néanmoins, sur les deux repas que j’ai vécus au Bern’s, ayant choisi des vins de plus de cent ans, je n’ai eu que de bonnes surprises. Il faut dire qu’avec Brad, nous avions choisi les plus belles.p> Ce soir, je vais dîner avec mon fils et ma fille cadette, ma femme ayant estimé que faire dix heures de route, cinq à l’aller et cinq au retour, pour manger un steak, sans boire de vin, n’a pour elle que peu d’attrait. Mon fils avait reçu par courrier la liste des vins du Bern’s, qui compte 174 pages à raison d’environ trente lignes par page. J’avais sélectionné 19 vins allant de 1961 le plus jeune jusqu’à 1888 avec 13 vins de cent ans et plus, que j’ai soumis à l’approbation de Brad. Brad m’avait répondu qu’il avait regardé les 19 vins et que cinq pouvaient retenir mon attention, les autres ayant des couleurs incertaines.p> Nous arrivons à 16 heures au restaurant et nous saluons Brad qui nous reçoit avec un aimable sourire. Les cinq vins attendent mon verdict. Il y a Bel Air Marquis d’Aligre 1961, Pontet Canet 1916, Léoville Poyferré 1901, Haut-Bailly 1913 et La Gaffelière Naudes 1926. Les couleurs sauf une sont engageantes, mais les niveaux de toutes les bouteilles sont bas. Il faut vraiment être passionné pour s’attaquer à ces bouteilles. Je dis à Brad que je vais ouvrir les bouteilles dans l’ordre des âges, la plus vieille d’abord. J’en ouvrirai trois et une quatrième s’il y a un problème. Brad me laisse entre les mains de pan style="color: #0000ff;">Chrispan>, qui gère la cave, et nous quitte. J’ouvre les vins dans la cave où il fait très froid et Chris éclaire le plan de travail car la cave est très sombre.p> Je veux ouvrir le Léoville Poyferré 1901 dont l’étiquette est manuscrite et au moment de toucher à la capsule je vois qu’il est très clairement inscrit « Château Latour 1920 ». La capsule étant d’une rare beauté et faisant son âge, il est évident que le vin est un Latour 1920 et qu’il s’agit d’une erreur d’étiquetage chez Bern’s. J’avais en tête de boire des vins de plus de cent ans, aussi Chris va me chercher les autres Léoville Poyferré 1901. Il y en a cinq et aucune ne trouve grâce à mes yeux. Je garderai donc le Latour 1920.p> La première bouteille que j’ouvre est celle du Haut-Bailly 1913. Le bouchon résiste, vient en morceaux. L’odeur est très intéressante, car il y a un joli fruit bien rouge. Mais il y a un soupçon d’acidité que j’espère voir disparaître. Le fruit paraît joli.p> J’ouvre ensuite le Pontet-Canet 1916 car avoir une bouteille de tout juste cent ans, au moment où l’on célèbre de centenaire de Verdun où mon grand-père fut gravement blessé, c’est un symbole fort. Le bouchon vient en charpie car il y a un incroyable renflement à l’intérieur du goulot qui fait que le bouchon se déchire et s’émiette si on le tire. Le parfum du vin est moins fruité et plaît moins à ma fille mais je crois plus en lui car je sens qu’il va s’épanouir de belle façon. Il faut savoir que ce sont des vins bien fragiles.p> J’ouvre enfin le Château Latour 1920 dont le bouchon est incroyablement sec et se brise car il colle au goulot. Le parfum est aussi discret mais peut-être un peu plus carré. Les trois parfums me semblent possibles et ne nécessitent pas que j’ouvre une quatrième bouteille. S’il y a une mauvaise surprise au service, je demande qu’on garde le Château La Gaffelière Naudes 1926 que je crois pouvoir ouvrir même si c’est au dernier moment, car ce Saint-Emilion est particulièrement solide dans ces années, les 1928 et 1929 m’ayant toujours souri.p> Ma fille est gelée et quitte vite la cave. Nous sortons. Mon fils va faire du vélo, prêté par l’hôtel, dans les jolis quartiers résidentiels du vieux Tampa, ma fille va nager dans la piscine de l’hôtel et de mon côté je rédige ce compte-rendu d’ouverture des vins dont j’espère qu’ils illumineront notre soirée malgré les énormes risques de vins aussi vieux aux niveaux assez bas.p> Si Brad ne vend quasiment plus de vins de cet âge, il y a aussi une autre raison. S’ils sont ouverts au dernier moment en salle, il y a déjà le problème du temps passé à les ouvrir, le désagrément de voir des bouchons en charpie qui salissent tout alentour et enfin le fait que les vins n’auront pas le temps de se reconstituer par l’oxygénation lente, si nécessaire à leur retour à la vie.p> Je vais me préparer. Boire des vins dont la moyenne d’âge est de 98 ans, avec deux de mes enfants, ce sera, j’espère, un plaisir unique.p> Lorsque nous nous présentons à 19h30, heure de notre réservation, nous sommes au moins une trentaine à attendre dans le hall d’entrée qu’un serveur vienne conduire chacun à sa table. Je salue pan style="color: #0000ff;">Frank Russopan> le directeur du restaurant qui se souvient bien de moi. C’est lui qui nous conduit à notre table, et pan style="color: #0000ff;">Paulpan>, notre serveur, nous prend en charge. Sur la table, les trois bouteilles venaient d’être posées ainsi que les trois soucoupes qui contiennent les bouchons déchirés et déchiquetés.p> C’est Brad lui-même qui vient nous conseiller le choix du menu. Pour moi, ce sera escargots qu’aux Etats-Unis on ne peut servir dans leurs coquilles, puis un morceau de bœuf qui s’appelle Demonico, que mon fils et moi prenons pour 16 onces, ce qui est déraisonnable, avec un gratin de pommes de terre.p> Brad nous dit qu’il pense que l’erreur d’étiquetage du Léoville-Poyférré 1901 a été faite dans les années 60 par Christie’s quand les bouteilles ont été achetées par Bern’s. Et il me dit : « ce vin a été comptabilisé dans nos livres en 1960 comme un Léoville-Poyférré 1901. Je fais une bonne affaire en vous le vendant et vous faites une bonne affaire puisque vous buvez un Latour 1920 au prix de mon inventaire ». La lune, pleine en ce jour, m’a bien inspiré.p> Brad me demande si je souhaite verser moi-même les vins. Il connaît la réponse : je prends en charge le service et j’offrirai à Brad de boire un petit verre de chaque vin.p> La perception des vins avant que nous n’ayons un plat à manger sera très différente de celle que nous aurons lorsque le repas aura commencé. A ce stade le pan style="color: #ff0000;">Château Haut-Bailly 1913pan> a un joli nez fruité, une belle attaque délicate, dans le fruit, mais un finale un peu amer, qui limite le plaisir.p> Le pan style="color: #ff0000;">Château Pontet-Canet 1916pan> a un nez plus calme, se montre un vin de grand équilibre mais sans encore une grande émotion et le pan style="color: #ff0000;">Château Latour 1920pan> est noble, bien assis, à peine doucereux, de grande prestance. C’est la couleur du Pontet-Canet qui est la plus tuilée, à peine, et la plus belle est celle du Haut-Bailly.p> Lorsque nous sommes servis le panorama change et il va varier doucement tout au long du repas. Dès que nous mangeons, la faiblesse que je trouvais dans le finale du Haut-Bailly disparaît et le vin grandit, romantique et délicieusement féminin. C’est lui qui a le plus de charme. Les trois vins se grandissent au contact des plats.p> Le Pontet-Canet se montre solide, mais comme il est carré et que le Latour l’est plus que lui, en ajoutant de la noblesse, le classement qui était : 1920, 1916, 1913 devient 1920, 1913, 1916. Ce qui me frappe le plus, c’est que les trois vins deviennent de grands vins, agréables à boire, avec de belles subtilités. Le Haut-Bailly est ‘charme’, le Pontet-Canet est ‘structure’ et le Latour est ‘noblesse’. Et les trois me plaisent et je me demande comment il est possible que ces trois vins aussi âgés soient aussi bons alors que leurs niveaux étaient entre mi et basse épaule, le Haut-Bailly étant le plus bas. Je crois que le secret est l’examen de leur couleur sous une lampe crue, qui permet de voir les vins qui ont conservé leur vitalité.p> Les escargots sont délicieux, la viande est goûteuse et typée, avec environ 60 jours de maturation, les pommes de terre se mangent avec gourmandise, donc tout va bien même s’il est impossible de tout manger. Je préfère les cuisson à la japonaise pour le Wagyu à celle-ci au gril, mais la viande est bonne.p> Plus le temps passe, plus la délicatesse raffinée du Haut-Bailly s’impose, même si le Latour est très grand. Je verse les fonds de bouteilles dans de nouveaux verres pour mieux en profiter. L’examen des lies est toujours révélateur. Les lies démontrent l’extrême vitalité des trois vins. Je préfère la lie du Haut-Bailly, celle du Latour étant plus douce donc moins vibrante.p> Brad m’ayant permis à chacun des trois dîners de choisir les bouteilles en cave, cela fait trois dîners où tous les vins se sont montrés vivants, et plus que vivants, raffinés. Brad me dit : « ça semblerait prouver que votre méthode d’ouverture est bonne ». Je crois que l’inventaire des couleurs compte pour beaucoup. Le Latour 1920 est le plus grand des trois vins, car sa matière est plus noble, mais ce sera au final le Haut-Bailly 1913 qui aura la prime de l’originalité et du charme et qui remportera la palme dans nos cœurs.p> Brad nous fait faire le tour des lieux, les nombreuses salles, et les cuisines impressionnantes. Ce lieu est une ruche, l’ensemble du personnel de toutes fonctions étant de 200 collaborateurs, au service de 1100 couverts ce soir. Il nous raconte toutes les inventions de ce visionnaire, qui a pratiqué l’intégration verticale en créant des fermes pour les vaches qui donneront les viandes superbes qui mûrissent dans des chambres froides, en construisant lui-même les isolants de ses caves, en fabriquant tous les ustensiles de cuisine, les torréfacteurs de café et les machines à confectionner les rondelles rôties d’oignons.p> Au passage en cave, il nous fait goûter un pan style="color: #ff0000;">Madère Bual Blandy 1907pan> délicieusement gourmand et intense. Un régal. Lancé, Brad nous raconte des tas d’histoires sur le vin et il me donne une demi-bouteilles de Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pierre Ponnelle 1961 que je m’empresserai de boire à sa santé.p> Bern Laxer a créé un restaurant hors norme, a pensé aux moindres détails en innovant en précurseur. Grâce à son génie créateur, nous avons pu boire ce soir trois vins historiques d’avant, du milieu et de l’après Grande Guerre. Ce fut un repas mémorable.p>   l'ouverture des vins en cave ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05257.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25982">p-image-25982" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05257.jpg" alt="DSC05257" width="640" height="427" /> ma fille m'éclaire avec son téléphone ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05268.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25987">p-image-25987" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05268.jpg" alt="DSC05268" width="640" height="427" />ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05261.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25983">p-image-25983" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05261.jpg" alt="DSC05261" width="640" height="427" /> Chris m'éclaire avec une lampe ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05263.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25985">p-image-25985" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05263.jpg" alt="DSC05263" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05262.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25984">p-image-25984" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05262.jpg" alt="DSC05262" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05241.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25973">p-image-25973" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05241.jpg" alt="DSC05241" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05243.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25974">p-image-25974" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05243.jpg" alt="DSC05243" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05251.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25977">p-image-25977" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05251.jpg" alt="DSC05251" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05249.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25976">p-image-25976" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05249.jpg" alt="DSC05249" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05267.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25986">p-image-25986" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05267.jpg" alt="DSC05267" width="640" height="427" /> capsules du Pontet Canet et du Latour 1920 (annoncé comme un Léoville Poyferré 1901 ! ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05253.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25979">p-image-25979" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05253.jpg" alt="DSC05253" width="381" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05245.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25975">p-image-25975" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05245.jpg" alt="DSC05245" width="336" height="343" /> mes outils sur le champ de bataille ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05252.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25978">p-image-25978" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05252.jpg" alt="DSC05252" width="640" height="427" /> Le restaurant et la cave ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05274.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25991">p-image-25991" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05274.jpg" alt="DSC05274" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05273.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25990">p-image-25990" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05273.jpg" alt="DSC05273" width="640" height="427" /> les vins avec chacun son bouchon ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05279.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25994">p-image-25994" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05279.jpg" alt="DSC05279" width="480" height="627" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05281.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25995">p-image-25995" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05281.jpg" alt="DSC05281" width="448" height="317" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05278.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25993">p-image-25993" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05278.jpg" alt="DSC05278" width="480" height="480" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05282.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25996">p-image-25996" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05282.jpg" alt="DSC05282" width="448" height="309" /> Comment a-t-on pu se tromper alors que la capsule est parfaitement lisible et même l'étiquette initiale montre clairement le nom et l'année du Latour 1920 ? ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05277.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25992">p-image-25992" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05277.jpg" alt="DSC05277" width="480" height="494" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05305.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25998">p-image-25998" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05305.jpg" alt="DSC05305" width="480" height="620" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05283.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25997">p-image-25997" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05283.jpg" alt="DSC05283" width="364" height="336" /> couleurs des vins au premier service dans l'ordre au premier plan Haut-Bailly 1913 / Pontet Canet 1916 / Latour 1920 (pour mon fils en face de moi, c'est l'inverse au second plan) ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05286.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26000">p-image-26000" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05286.jpg" alt="DSC05286" width="640" height="427" /> couleurs des vins. Au premier plan ce sont de nouveaux verres pour moi avec les lies. Au second plan les mêmes vins dans le même ordre, couleurs de mi-bouteille. ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05301.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26005">p-image-26005" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05301.jpg" alt="DSC05301" width="640" height="427" /> couleurs des fins de lies ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05306.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26006">p-image-26006" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05306.jpg" alt="DSC05306" width="640" height="427" /> les plats ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05288.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26001">p-image-26001" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05288.jpg" alt="DSC05288" width="448" height="299" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05292.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26002">p-image-26002" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05292.jpg" alt="DSC05292" width="448" height="299" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05293.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26003">p-image-26003" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05293.jpg" alt="DSC05293" width="448" height="299" /> la joie d'avoir deux de mes enfants avec moi ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05297.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26004">p-image-26004" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05297.jpg" alt="DSC05297" width="640" height="427" /> nous visitons la cuisine, les caves, dont celle de vieillissement des viandes avec Brad et ma fille ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/3160180_orig.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26081">p-image-26081" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/3160180_orig.jpg" alt="3160180_orig" width="800" height="800" />   ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05307.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26009">p-image-26009" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05307.jpg" alt="DSC05307" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05308.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26010">p-image-26010" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05308.jpg" alt="DSC05308" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05309.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26011">p-image-26011" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05309.jpg" alt="DSC05309" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05310.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26012">p-image-26012" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05310.jpg" alt="DSC05310" width="427" height="640" /> et celle des vins avec un intermède pour goûter un délicieux Madère ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05311.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26013">p-image-26013" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05311.jpg" alt="DSC05311" width="427" height="640" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05313.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26014">p-image-26014" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05313.jpg" alt="DSC05313" width="427" height="640" /> les très vieilles bouteilles sont conservées dans des sacs en plastique ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05323.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26018">p-image-26018" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05323.jpg" alt="DSC05323" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05314.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26015">p-image-26015" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05314.jpg" alt="DSC05314" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05316.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26016">p-image-26016" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05316.jpg" alt="DSC05316" width="640" height="427" /> je regarde une curiosité de la cave ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05319.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25988">p-image-25988" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05319.jpg" alt="DSC05319" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05321.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-26017">p-image-26017" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05321.jpg" alt="DSC05321" width="640" height="427" />

Miami 4 – dinner in Palme d’Or of hotel Biltmore samedi, 20 février 2016

During our trip to Mexico in the Cancun area we had the chance to meet the director of operations of affiliates at the Biltmore Hotel. This coincidence is unimaginable like all coincidences, we decided to see us when we would saty at Biltmore hotel. Candy and her husband Ron invited my wife and me at pan style="color: #0000ff;">restaurant La Palme d'Or of the Biltmore Hotelpan>. The place is pretty old style, as if they had stopped the clock in the decades thirties to fifties, with pictures of Marlene Dietrich, Clark Gable, and other giants of the period of black and white cinema. We take an aperitif at the bar with a glass of pan style="color: #ff0000;">Champagne Brut non vintage Leon Launoispan>, simple but bright enough to be appreciated. We move to table greeted by the manager who speaks French. The chef pan style="color: #0000ff;">Grégory Puginpan> comes to greet us and informs us that he has made a menu according to his inspiration, with food and wine pairing imagined with the head sommelierpan style="color: #0000ff;"> José J. Garciapan>. We let ourselves willingly embark on this journey. They bring us a brioche instead of bread. This is incredible greed to the point that we will order another one, which is quite unreasonable. The menu, given after a meal, is: appetizer of caviar and raw shells St. Jacques put on thin slices of avocado / Stone-crab spice to the emulsion / roasted lobster curry / pie outbreak black truffle / sole artichoke / the sauce large Huntsman saddle of venison, baked in foil cigar / hot époisses with black truffles and beet / variations on the caramel / sweets. The dishes are beautifully executed, the prize, so to say, returning to the taste of the pie with black truffles, and originality to the presentation of the deer. pan style="color: #ff0000;">Champagne Veuve Clicquot Brutpan> is nice and goes well with the classic shell and caviar dish. A slightly more tense champagne would have strengthened this fine agreement. pan style="color: #ff0000;">Chablis premier cru Fourchaume Domaine Séguinot Bordet 2014 pan>comes too cold. When it expands, it becomes joyful despite its young age and very incisive. The agreement is relevant but the dish is too complex for wines with two sauces that counteract. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">Rosé de Provence Triennes 2013pan> is a nice wine with character but does not have enough skeleton to join the delicious dish with truffles. It is the wine which comes after which would have suited him. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">Morey-Saint-Denis Domaine of Beaumont 2012pan>, when it is served, delivers an unforgettable fragrance. What charm in this elegant and subtle wine that plays on more elegance than power. I applaud with both hands the idea of combining this wine to the sole. This is the best agreement of the dinner and I applaud especially as sommeliers that combine fish and red wine are very few. Congratulations. I checked in thought as the previous dishes is no longer there, that Morey would have created with pie truffle a relevant agreement. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Château Fortia Baron 2009pan> is a comfort, fine wine in the full possession of his qualities. The agreement is a tangible evidence with deer. We could know in advance that they played winning with this wine. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">Gérard Bertrand Banyuls 2009 pan>is light enough to be drunk easily. Epoisses streaming has an acidity that does not create a good combination because there is a fight between bitterness of wine and cheese. With the front-dessert floral and very smooth which I have no more in mind the composition creates an agreement with pan style="color: #ff0000;">Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise Vidal-Fleury 2010pan> which is masterful. The wine is delicate with sweets calmed by evocations of litchi. The agreement is the second bright for my taste and better than the one that forms with the "real" dessert. José Garcia who was occupied by a wine tasting of a domain for more than sixty people came to join us after a meal to talk about pairings. Here's a relevant sommelier who did not try to defend his choice but to discuss what could be improved. Such listening and such intelligence deserves compliments. The service was impeccable and attentive. pan style="color: #ff0000;">Gregory Zarzycki pan>room manager was a little too talkative and involved. Understandably he was interested in this beautiful experience. We complimented the chef who has a real talent. Our hosts, whose family trees have branches in numerous countries but especially in Greece were charming and welcoming. We explored thousand gastronomic tracks to explore together. It was a wonderful evening, warmly friendly.

Miami 4 dîner au restaurant La Palme d’Or de l’hôtel Biltmore vendredi, 19 février 2016

Miami 3 – restaurant GK Bistronomie jeudi, 18 février 2016

Le lendemain, il fait beau et chaud, ce qui est précieux en plein hiver. Nous allons déjeuner au pan style="color: #0000ff;">restaurant Georgespan>, ce sympathique restaurateur français qui connaît un grand succès avec une cuisine classique sans chichi. Mon fils et moi prenons des moules-frites et c’est une bière qui convient le mieux.p> Le soir j’invite à dîner en plus de ma femme, mon fils et ma belle-fille, une américaine fidèle de mes dîners, qui avait participé notamment à ceux de Mougins et chez Veuve Clicquot. Mon fils a choisi un restaurant qui a de bonnes critiques, l’une d’elles le désignant meilleure table de Miami. Il est installé dans le quartier de Wynwood, célèbre pour son Art Basel, et admet que l’on apporte du vin ce qui est un atout supplémentaire.p> Les rues du quartier sont intensément colorées, avec des tags qui explorent toutes les facettes du Street Art. Le quartier est vivant, tonique et imaginatif. La façade du pan style="color: #0000ff;">restaurant GK Bistronomiepan> est, elle aussi, abondamment bariolée dans des tons de bleu et de blanc. La décoration intérieure est stricte et retenue, voir un peu coincée, contrastant avec l’exubérance extérieure.p> Je demande la liste des vins et là, c’est le grand choc. Je n’ai jamais rencontré un restaurant d’un certain standing qui ait une offre aussi pauvre. Il y a un seul champagne à la carte, et pour pimenter le tout, ce qui est inscrit sous le nom de Laurent Perrier est en fait un Perrier Jouët. On sent qu’il y a de la matière grise dans tout cela. Mon fils propose d’aller chercher un champagne de bon niveau mais il rentrera bredouille après la visite de quatre cavistes.p> Nous choisissons les plats. Pour ma part ce sera des beignets de foie gras et un filet de bœuf Angus.p> Goûter le pan style="color: #ff0000;">Champagne Perrier-Jouët Brut sans annéepan> en ayant la mémoire du Krug d’hier, c’est d’une cruauté rare, car ce champagne n’a rien à nous proposer qui pourrait nous émouvoir. Il est plat, fade, avec une petite longueur qui finit sur une acidité qui n’est pas très nette. Je rappellerai bien sûr qu’à force de boire des champagnes de prestige, je ne suis peut-être pas le meilleur juge de tels champagnes.p> Les beignets de foie gras sont agréables. J’ai ouvert avant que mon invitée n’arrive, un pan style="color: #ff0000;">Château Haut-Brion 1986pan> que j’ai acheté il y a deux jours chez un caviste de Coral Gables. A l’ouverture, le nez était royal, riche et noble. Le vin a une belle couleur de rouge sang foncé. Le nez est superbe de persuasion. En bouche le vin est enthousiasmant. Si je devais nommer un vin que j’aimerais avoir sur ma table tous les jours, ce serait celui-là. Il est riche, évoque la truffe, mais ce qui me fascine le plus c’est son velours. Tout en lui est chatoyant, charmeur et velouté. Ce Haut-Brion 1986 s’est montré très au-dessus de ce que j’aurais attendu.p> La viande est bonne mais beaucoup trop salée. Je ne sais pas qui a été aussi dithyrambique pour ce restaurant, mais il ne peut pas faire partie des meilleurs restaurants de Miami. La soirée a été illuminée par un Haut-Brion de pur bonheur.p> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05176.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25941">p-image-25941" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05176.jpg" alt="DSC05176" width="480" height="535" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05177.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25942">p-image-25942" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05177.jpg" alt="DSC05177" width="273" height="448" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05179.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25943">p-image-25943" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05179.jpg" alt="DSC05179" width="336" height="391" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05170.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25938">p-image-25938" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05170.jpg" alt="DSC05170" width="406" height="640" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05173.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25939">p-image-25939" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05173.jpg" alt="DSC05173" width="448" height="329" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05174.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25940">p-image-25940" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05174.jpg" alt="DSC05174" width="448" height="299" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05180.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25944">p-image-25944" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05180.jpg" alt="DSC05180" width="448" height="299" />

Miami 2 – restaurant Seaspice mercredi, 17 février 2016

Miami 1 lundi, 15 février 2016

Nous partons, ma femme et moi, rendre visite à notre fils, sa femme et son fils à Miami. L’Airbus A380 est un avion gigantesque avec deux étages sur toute la longueur de l’avion. La stabilité et la réduction du bruit sont appréciables. Le premier film que je vois est Spectre, un James Bond qui a tout du navet. Comment peut-on se moquer ainsi du spectateur avec un acteur extatique sans un gramme d’expression et des cascades artificielles où l’ordinateur se substitue à l’acteur. Une marque de champagne n’apparaît que de façon furtive dans le film et c’est tant mieux, car s’associer à une telle caricature de film serait contreproductif.p> Le deuxième film que j’ai vu, plus ancien, est Mission Impossible avec Tom Cruise. Si l’ordinateur est lui aussi mis à contribution pour que les bagarres et carambolages soient plus virtuels que réels il y a au moins un rythme qui tient en haleine. Le risque des progrès de l’informatique est que les films deviennent des exercices d’ingénieurs plus que l’œuvre de poètes ou romanciers. La prouesse informatique tient lieu de scénario.p> Dans l’avion on nous donne une luxueuse brochure indiquant les plats que l’on peut choisir. C’est un chef MOF (meilleur ouvrier de France) et Bocuse d’Or qui a élaboré un filet de volaille rôti moelleux, carottes et céleri, sauce suprême au cumin. Un tel parrainage nous pousse à prendre ce plat, mais le problème de la gastronomie dans les avions, c’est la gestion des températures. Les caissons de plats passent de températures très fraîches à des réchauffements trop rapides. Le résultat est un plat quasiment immangeable. C’est dommage car sur le papier on encense ce plat avec des propos dithyrambiques. Au contraire, un simple plat de pâtes au curcuma, proposé au deuxième repas, se mange simplement, avec plaisir.p> Le premier repas a été accompagné par un pan style="color: #ff0000;">Champagne Drappier Signature, Blanc de Blancs sans annéepan> très agréable, pur, franc, net et sympathique. Le service est attentionné.p> A l’arrivée à Miami, il a fallu 90 minutes entre le moment où l’avion a posé ses roues sur le macadam et le moment où nous avons embrassé notre fils, du fait d’un passage en douane éprouvant. On aimerait bien un juste milieu entre la rigueur excessive des Etats Unis et le sentiment de carence des contrôles douaniers français.p> Nous arrivons chez mon fils et embrassons belle-fille et petit-fils. Un apéritif est prévu avec un pan style="color: #ff0000;">Champagne Dom Pérignon 2003pan>. Ce champagne est une fierté de Richard Geoffroy le chef de caves de Dom Pérignon car il y avait un vrai challenge en cette année très difficile pour la Champagne, certaines maisons ayant perdu leurs raisins du fait de gels et de grêle. J’avais adoré à son lancement ce champagne romantique et subtil. Celui que nous buvons est précis, très dans la ligne de Dom Pérignon mais il lui manque de la vibration, de la vivacité. Tout donne l’impression que le champagne, fort agréable au demeurant, est dans une phase de fermeture dans laquelle il se recroqueville. Il en aurait fallu beaucoup plus pour atténuer le plaisir de nos retrouvailles à Miami.p> Il pleut sur Miami ce qui ne pousse pas à se promener. Déjeuner frugal au restaurant italien de l’hôtel Biltmore où nous résidons. Le soir, dîner chez mon fils avec un délicieux poulet à la chair fondante. L’apéritif est pris avec un pan style="color: #ff0000;">Champagne Marguet Les Crayères 2009 Grand Cru d’Ambonnaypan>. Le champagne manque de finesse. Il est assez pataud. Et sa longueur est faible. C’est un champagne buvable mais qui ne crée aucune véritable émotion.p> Le pan style="color: #ff0000;">Valbuena 5° Vega Sicilia 2010pan> titre 14,5°. Riche, extrêmement généreux et moderne, il est d’une très belle fraîcheur avec de belles notes mentholées. Ce vin moderne et lourd est très plaisant. Même s’il n’atteint pas les complexités du Vega Sicilia Unico, ce vin est très agréable à boire. Il est fini sur des fromages avec lesquels il voisine bien.p> vue de notre chambre au Biltmore ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05125.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25900">p-image-25900" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05125.jpg" alt="DSC05125" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05126.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25901">p-image-25901" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05126.jpg" alt="DSC05126" width="640" height="427" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05121.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25897">p-image-25897" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05121.jpg" alt="DSC05121" width="480" height="573" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05133.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25906">p-image-25906" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05133.jpg" alt="DSC05133" width="448" height="299" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05129.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25903">p-image-25903" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05129.jpg" alt="DSC05129" width="555" height="480" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05131.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25904">p-image-25904" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05131.jpg" alt="DSC05131" width="362" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05132.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25905">p-image-25905" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05132.jpg" alt="DSC05132" width="480" height="546" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05128.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25902">p-image-25902" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05128.jpg" alt="DSC05128" width="363" height="336" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05136.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25908">p-image-25908" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05136.jpg" alt="DSC05136" width="389" height="640" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05134.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25907">p-image-25907" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05134.jpg" alt="DSC05134" width="278" height="448" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05124.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25899">p-image-25899" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05124.jpg" alt="DSC05124" width="448" height="299" /> ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05123.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-25898">p-image-25898" src="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DSC05123.jpg" alt="DSC05123" width="299" height="448" />

folie du collectionneur – craziness of a collector dimanche, 14 février 2016

A great vertical of Pommard Epenots domaine Parent proves the efficiency of slow ox method dimanche, 14 février 2016

A great vertical of Pommard Epenots domaine Parent proves the efficiency of slow ox method I have very quickly translated my text of this verticale with Google Translation. There are certainly mistakes I do apologize for that. I did not change the text which is exactly what I wrote in 2008 and the French version here : postlink" href="https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/une-belle-verticale-de-pommard-epenots-parent/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/une-belle-verticale-de-pommard-epenots-parent/ you should go there to see the pictures of the event. ps://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/verticale-de-pommard-epenots-parent-dans-le-vaucluse/">https://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/verticale-de-pommard-epenots-parent-dans-le-vaucluse/ Just a few months I had been staying with a couple of Burgundian winemakers who have chosen to escape the weekend amid Rhône Valley vineyards. We talked wine, as it happens between wine lovers. An appointment was determined by my cousin who is a friend of the winemakers, so that together we could taste some antique bottles. My wife and I arrived on Friday afternoon with my cousin and I'll drop my wines to the vacation house of the winemakers. pan style="color: #0000ff;">François Parentpan> shows me an incredible number of bottles of all sizes and said, "all those bottles of the family winery have their original corks. I planned rescue bottles if maderization or default. " It turns out that François Parent, who opens occasionally one or two old bottles, will only make the third major vertical of wines of his Domaine. The first was made with Robert Parker in the early 80s, the second took place three years ago with Allen Meadows, the man who undoubtedly knows best Burgundy wines as Richard Juhlin knows champagnes, and third is done in the presence of a few friends and myself, what I feel like an honor. An additional mark of esteem is that François accepts myself to open wines, operation he never confided to anyone else. Bravado or encouragement, without seeing the wines, I start "tomorrow there will be no waste and no necessity to open extra bottles." We return to my cousin for dinner and we start with a pure pan style="color: #ff0000;">Chardonnay champagne, Lady N Le Brun de Neuvillepan>. It is gently drinkable and pleasantly fits well with foie gras made by his son that one pepper lightly. On a soup with chestnuts and toasted chestnuts, my cousin opened a pan style="color: #ff0000;">Arbois yellow wine Rolet Père & Fils 1995pan>. The wine is very powerful. The agreement is smooth, comfortable. While this yellow wine delights me, imperious nose, virile and pervasive taste and a talented final. We fear that such wine not overbearing overshadows the wine to follow, but we're getting. On a cod with orange, the pan style="color: #ff0000;">Clos de la Coulee de Serrant Ms. Joly 1983pan> is appropriate as divinely elegant lemony acidity with prepared fish. What strikes me is the precision of the frame of this wine. I appreciate this wine to the period before the pope of biodynamics, Nicolas Joly. It clearly shows that we should drink this wine when it is adult. The acidity of the rhubarb pie with currants refuses any wine. The next morning the hot sun illuminates the Vaucluse. My cousin hand pluck the thrushes, François Parent and pan style="color: #0000ff;">Anne-Françoise Grospan> are busy. In a few hours I will open wines accompanied by one of my most faithful companions of old wine dinners and our wives. All abuzz pregame recollection. I arrived a little late, at 17.30 instead 17.00 and I'm a little nervous because I want to demonstrate my opening method is the clearest possible but François Parent is as nervous as me because he would never so early open his antique bottles. François opens all bottles subsequent to 1947 and I open all older. The original corks up which are very dry and break like the crust of a dry lake. But the bottom corks are very flexible. The corks stick to the necks and are removed with difficulty but are integers, except the 1886 Pommard being torn apart. François is surprised that I find very good wines with unpleasant odors, but he accepts the experience. Anne-Françoise shows me the menu and wonder how I thus apportion wines to dishes that do not have all been designed for them, since the wines of my friend and mine were not announced. The developed by Anne-Francoise Gros menu is: fish terrine, St. Jacques scallops on a bed of Vosne-Romanée / thrushes Vaucluse to pin / the deer roast, celery purée, potato and wild truffles / cheese platter Burgundy / apple pie and quince Pommard / roasted pineapple, lemongrass skewer, ginger cream. We take an aperitif at the fireplace where a thrush company rotates the spindle, each bird is separated from the other by slices of bacon, two half-loaves under thrushes collecting cooking seeps. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">champagne Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1983 pan>I brought has good acidity, freshness, which nicely fills the mouth. It does not have the density or complexity of champagnes typed as Salon or Krug, but we have a very comfortable expressing fine champagne. We must accustom pan style="color: #ff0000;">Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1952 Mahupan> brought by my friend, because he lost his bubble, has an amber color and has a very strong wine that evokes a little Jura wines, with less force. Everyone being amateur wine is appreciated. However, it has aged more than he should have, which does not diminish his interest. We go to the table and the bowl there are two wines: a pan style="color: #ff0000;">1976 Echezeaux Domaine Gustave Gros pan>in half bottles and a magnum of pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard Chaponnières Domaine Parent 1990pan>. Pommard is a joyful youth, with a beautiful fruit and the cousin love it and will continue repeating. 1976 is a great personality, shows no drought, and does not suffer from his bottle format. We will drink two, very good quality. Both wines are dissimilar but coexist and the agreement with the dish is relevant. I love the message of 1976. On thrushes, I wanted to join the pan style="color: #ff0000;">Parent Pommard Epenots Domaine 1964pan> with the pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard Jeroboam Epenots Domaine Parent 1933pan>. And it works very well. One is struck by the similarity of taste between the two, which are the expression of the terroir of the Parent domain. 1964 has blossomed, slightly bitter and 1933, my friend and I like particularly, shows a beautiful complexity for the year, the best of the 30s, without a year of great influence. 1933 we like a lot. The roast doe we have two series of wines of the finest vintages. The first set comprises the pan style="color: #ff0000;">Domaine Parent Pommard Epenots 1959pan> and pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard Epenots Domaine Parent 1947pan>. The youngest is of great elegance and lightness that mark a long journey in the mouth. The contrast is striking with the 1947 rounder, fuller, more complex, more rich. I am quite stunned by the perfection of 1947 when my cousin did not see much difference with 1959. François Parent finds an opening made several hours before round the wines and the wine is good from the first sip to the last since it took a long time for aeration. The second set includes pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard Epenots Domaine Parent 1928pan> and pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard Epenots Domaine Parent 1915pan>. Could we imagine two more different wines and also perfect, each in its register? 1928 is in line with the 1947, but it has everything and more. My friend and I immediately say that for 1928, it has all of 1928. But it was more than that. It is powerful, strong, robust, complex, with a spectacular presence in mouth. Looks like this is the perfect Pommard, which seems more than happy Pommard the beginning of the meal. Anne-Françoise says drinking the 1915 "this is the rose." And I tell the story of the first meals I had shared with Alain Senderens for which I brought my darling Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles Morin 1915. Alain had loved and had asked a butler search for rose petals. And we had chewed rose petals and drank the divine agreement for 1915. Anne-Francoise had found the same evocation Alain on a wine of the same year. The 1915 is a wine of incredible sensuality. It is sexy, disturbing, seductive, and takes us on taste tracks that we would not have imagined. There are some similarities between 1915 and 1933, the oldest having a significantly higher charm. We were pretty impressed that we can have all the 1928-assured and domineering and romantic 1915 basket of roses with a feminine charm. I wanted the two older wines are tasted without food, but we pecked cheese, Chambertin suitable well to the development of these two ancestors. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard 1904 Parent Epenots Domainepan> a fairly astonishing color that Francis knows well, very red blood which is almost unbelievable this year. The wine is good, pleasing, distinctive, expressive, but is beginning to feel the effects of age even if the wine is nimble. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard 1886 Epenots Domaine Parentpan> moving. It comes pre-phylloxera vines were uprooted in 1895. The wine was a low level is still alive and François was pleased agility. But the more you drink it as a touching relic that like a fine wine. One detail struck me: François knows everything about the history of each year and explains the taste of each wine by climatology and resulting decisions. We're going on cheese make a powerful statement of accuracy. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard Epenots Domaine Parent magnum 1985pan> and pan style="color: #ff0000;">Pommard Epenots Domaine Parent magnum 1978pan> are wines that make a leap of almost a century with the wine we had left. And if the youth is beautiful, the wines appear to us at the time as too young, not enough structured, assembled not enough, not enough homogeneous. Wines that have more than twenty years seem like kids wines of the year. My friend is very sad because his pan style="color: #ff0000;">Vouvray Clos du Bourg 1959 Huetpan> is nice, but a hundred cubits he can show, as if he had a cold. I brought two sweet. pan style="color: #ff0000;">Le Pin Domaine 1st Côtes de Bordeaux 1937pan> I announced as a sauternes, and 1941, because the bottle had no label has a nicely citrus nose. On the palate, citrus fruits are present, but the wine lacks a little safe. The pan style="color: #ff0000;">Chateau Rayne-Vigneau 1936pan>, a very amber caramel nose. Anne-Françoise sees chocolate I have trouble finding. In the mouth it is very caramel and blends well with the sauce of pineapple crafted by the couple of Dutch guests participating in the meal. This wine will be highly favored in votes, but I find that both sweet that I brought, like the Huet, playing small arms during the evening. Beyond two in the morning, under a starry sky, Cuban scrolls form the clouds and only marry a pan style="color: #ff0000;">fine Burgundy Parentpan> that can be dated pan style="color: #ff0000;">between 1890 and 1904pan> from a barrel of 228 liters evaporated leaving only 50 liters at bottling. From birth to 70 °, there is still an alcoholic strength to break through the walls. We voted for the four wines that were most popular. Despite great differences, the consensus is largely made on the first two. The consensus of the vote would be: pan style="color: #0000ff;">1 - Pommard Epenots field Parent 1915 2 - Pommard Epenots field Parent 1928 3 - Pommard Epenots field Parent 1947 4 - Château Rayne Vigneau, 1936pan>. My vote is almost the same, being replaced by the sauternes champagne Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1983. I would draw from this magnificent vertical the following lessons. The excellence of this Pommard period is between 1959 and 1915. The youngest have not yet reached the roundness that highlights them, and beyond 1915, the older wines, although interesting, are now historical evidence more than the taste of serenity. They exceeded their threshold of interest, while the 1928 show by example an almost infinite longevity. The greatest source of pride for me is the total success of my opening method. François Parent acknowledged that he would have rejected two wines, but 1933 and 1886 have corresponded to what could be expected. This is the first time in these verticals, he was not obliged to open emergency bottles, and found that wine enhanced by slow oxygenation, appears on the table in the more fulfilled state they would be able to offer. The noon the next day under a heavy sun that normally would never in January, brunch brings us to comment on the wonderful dinner the night before. The 1990 is still as cheerful, 1964 became more bitter and has lost some of its luster. The 1985 is constant, and it is especially the 1978, which has improved incredibly. No longer faced with the talent of 28 and 47, it shows a love of life and a balance that did not yesterday, that reconciles us with the wines of this age. This impressive vertical in a friendly atmosphere between old wine connoisseurs learned many things for everyone. (end of report) Conclusion : a winemaker allowed me to open his wines by provocation I said : we will not use extra bottles and we did not (happy chance) the winemaker would have opened two extra bottles and it was not necessary he had the demonstration that wines are enlarged by slow ox method.

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