<p>One of the participant of this dinner translated my report. Here is the story of the 157th dinner :p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">An American I meet every year during the presentation of the wines of Domaine de la Romanée Conti asked me to host his wine club during one of my dinners. And he added: "no claret, and a majority of red."pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">At 5:30 pm I am hard at work at pan style="COLOR: #0000cc">restaurant Laurentpan> to open bottles in the order of the service. To please this group, when there were already two wines of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, I added another bottle of the estate, a “low level” one, which was ready to drink. Unfortunately, I found that the color of the liquid changed since I put it in a case a week ago. The reason is simple: the cork must have fallen into the liquid during transport from my cellar and the restaurant. The pan style="COLOR: red">Grands-Echezeaux Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1956pan> that I tasted was a possible option, but unfortunately the verdict is final. This wine is dead . I asked Ghislain to bring it so that we could taste it at the table, but recommending we spit out after we tasted it. But this alternative raised with my guests will not materialize: Why hurt yourself when you drink so well? I planned two back up wine and then begins the “opening ceremony”.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The cork of Chambolle-Musigny Chanson Père & Fils 1955 breaks into a thousand pieces. The smell is uncertain. We will see. When I remove the capsule from the La Tache Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1983, a strong stench assailed my nostrils. It is a decay that has occurred through the small hole that exists at the top of the capsule. Fortunately, only the top of the cork is full of white mold. The rest is impeccable and the wine has this delicious smell of the domaine .pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The cork of Echézeaux Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1989 is perfect and the flavor too. Who would say that the cork of Clos de Vougeot 1961 Bouchard Pere & Fils is much longer than the Echézeaux? I would never have bet. The corks of both 1961 comes out uneventfully, and the scents are pure and perfect. The 1947 cork comes out in shreds. One of the bottle that may be 1900 is black as sludge.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The cork of the Gevrey-Chambertin of 1949 Lavoyepierre, a Négociant, breaks away. It is soft and the wine is very promising. Sauternes from 1964 has a heavy fruit flavor, one can die for, and the Sparkling Champagne Moët & Chandon is an enigma because the name "Sparkling" disappeared in the early 20th century. In view of the label so “new”, I thought about the year 1980, but after tasting I would say 1950, and with hindsight it could be much older!pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Premières Côtes de Bordeaux has a delicate fragrance. pan>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">Doubt exists only for 1955. Other wines have flavors consistent with my expectations. I am serene.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">We are ten around the table, ten “males” including eight Americans, one Frenchman and myself. They are all passionate about wine but do not have much experience in old wines. They will go from surprise to surprise.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">In the lobby rotunda of the restaurant we are eating delicious snacks, and start tasting a wine that is a first for me. This is a pan style="COLOR: red">Sparkling Champagne Moët & Chandon ("mousseux")pan> which has lost its millesime label but I believe it is around around 1950. I thought it was in the early 80's but looking at the cork again and the incredible color, it is very likely that the champagne is more around 1950. It is a mahogany color, it does not bubble, and it takes hard work to imagine its sparkling nature, because it almost disappeared. In the mouth, I think I never drank champagne like this. It feels more like a muscat. This champagne is absolutely delicious, and with fried fritters, it is a joy. I relish this sweet wine, sweet, that would be classified more as a late harvest than a Champagne. A treat.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">We sit down to eat in the beautiful dining room. The menu created by pan style="COLOR: #0000cc">Alain Pégouretpan> is well organized: Merlan Fritters with Tartar Sauce / Roasted Lobster with sage butter, peas, light bisque / patty calf's head served warm with mustard sprouts and condiments / Pigeon just smoked and roasted , pissaladière of young vegetables, hot sauce / browned piece of beef into strips and served, soufflé potatoes "Laurent" herbal juices / veal sweetbreads with golden necklace, morels / shortbread tart citrus / coffee, sweets and chocolates.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">Our pan style="COLOR: red">Champagne Bollinger RD 1988pan> creates a major shock after the Moët. We feel we’re committing infanticide as it seems too young compared to the other one we just had. It is good, but the strength of its bubble seems excessive after the gentler "sparkling" Moët. The lobster is delicious but does not go well with the champagne. pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">My guests have little experience of very old wines, I did a lot of prior recommendations to them not to judge too quickly. So when we start to drink the pan style="COLOR: red">Chambolle-Musigny Chanson Père & Fils 1955pan>, the Frenchman in the group sends me a look that speaks by itself which I read: “You did well to warn us, as these wines are very different”.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">It was in fact based on the scent of the wine, with a strong “animal” flavor, which announces a certain tiredness. But the taste of wine is completely opposed to its smell. No trace of animal flavor or old age and to the contrary, the wine is crisp, deep, and very rich. This wine is excellent and the Frenchman and author of the “stare” will be particularly fair play later in the dinner. After this somewhat quick judgment, he will vote for this wine in first place. This is quite elegant!pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The pan style="COLOR: red">Chapelle-Chambertin 1976 Clair Daüpan> is a pleasant wine, lighter than the 1955, "on his own" as they say, but that does not create so much emotion. The meal is superb for both wines.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">We now have two wines of Romanee Conti domaine , opposite to each other. pan>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">The pan style="COLOR: red">La Tache, Domaine de la Romanée Conti Romanée Conti 1983pan> is 100% typical of DRC. pan>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">Who would say that 1983 is a mediocre year? This wine has all the attributes of DRC wines. I tell one of the guests that this wine has both of the two characteristics of DRC wines: rose and salt. And he lights up as if I had given him the keys of an enigma. This La Tache is brilliant.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">The pan style="COLOR: red">Echezeaux Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1989pan> is its opposite. pan>pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">This is a strong warrior, standing up straight. This is a wine that goes into force, strong, powerful, with quiet strength. It is nice but does not have the character of the nobility and the finesse of the La Tache . The pigeon is a marvel and gets along equally well with both wines.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">We have now two wines from 1961 in front of us. pan style="COLOR: red">Clos de Vougeot Bouchard Pere & Fils 1961pan> is solid as the wines of Bouchard and magnified by this sublime year, but I confess my heart is balancing between the pan style="COLOR: red">Chambertin Clos de Bèze Pierre Damoy 1961pan> which I know extremely well and is always exceptionally charming. In it nothing is excessive. All is fair. This is the easy wine, gourmet “par excellence”, the archetype of Burgundy pleasure. I do not sulk! The accord with the red meat is superb.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The meat pulses and propels both 1961 to heights of wealth and good life.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">We are now entering the unknown. The bottle without a label, holds around its neck a little white string with a handwritten card that indicates pan style="COLOR: red">Cotes de Nuits 1947pan>. The winemaker is unknown. I love these bottles which are often puzzles and make me a hundredfold faith I had in them. Here it will be miraculous, because this wine is the first of my vote. How to describe this wine? It is rich, it is clean. It is probably from fairly modest origin, but it has a purity of message, a fruit with fluid, well made, which delights me with joy. We are not here in the top rated wines, with pedigree of competition. It is rather a joyful and festive one. This natural force is what I like in Burgundy.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">Next to this unknown wine is also a mystery bottle. The glass is opaque, covered with earth on a part, and what is not is iridescent, as it happens for bottles that have long been on or in the earth, the glass marked by the soil acidity. The black cork pushed down and dusty could indicate a 19th century bottle.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">As a precaution, I named this wine “pan style="COLOR: red">very old Burgundy circa 1900pan>”. There, my guests are in full discovery and realize that wines over a century may be very much alive. This original wine is difficult to define, but it is honest, a little affected by age and of great interest. It is a Côte de Nuits, almost certainly.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">I added the pan style="COLOR: red">Gevrey-Chambertin of 1949 Lavoyepierrepan>, because I couldn’t resist trying it after looking at its charming label showing a scene in a medieval castle in beautiful color and perfect wine. And I was right as is shown in my and my guests’ ranking of wines. This wine is a beautiful burgundy -- frank, cheerful, in an exceptional state of preservation. The purity of his message is extreme. pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">In this burgundy , largely unknown, discovery dinner, either because they have no label, as for the assumed 1947 and 1900, or either because they are wines of negociants whose names are unknown to me, I am happy to take risks that turn out to be winners, as these wines are frank, natural, simple, readable, but greedy, sunny and reassuring.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">I was so pleased with the performance of my "guest students" that I did not suggest that we try the Grands-Echezeaux Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1956, which will be poured into the closest sink.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">I have no memory of the third wine added; pan style="COLOR: red">Chateau Haute-Sage 1st Côtes de Bordeaux 1960 #pan> which I had brought after the bottled blinked at me in my basement. I love these wines sort of "foot soldiers", but at the time of writing, I don’t remember anything about it.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The pan style="COLOR: red">1964 Château Lafaurie-Peyragueypan> will be enough to make me happy because I love this very solid wine, greedily fruity, heavy fruit and generous botrytis. This is great sauternes atop of its petulance. What a pity Yquem has not bottled in 1964 when we see the richness of this amazing Sauternes.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The voting time is always interesting. Ten out of thirteen wines have been voted for, which is interesting. But even more interesting is the fact that six different wines have been voted as the best (Number 1) wine by different voters and this is truly is remarkable.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The Chambertin Clos de Bèze Pierre Damoy 1961 had four votes for number one position, the Cotes de Nuits 1947 unknown winemaker had two votes for first place and four wines had a vote for number one: Chambolle-Musigny 1955 Chanson Père & Fils, Echézeaux domaine de la Romanee Conti 1989, Gevrey-Chambertin 1949 Lavoyepierre and La Tache Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1983. This spread makes me happy.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The Chambertin Clos de Bèze Pierre Damoy 1961 was one of the five favorite wines of nine out of ten voters and finished in first place. It is interesting to note that I have included this wine in seven of my dinners and in the six dinners where we have voted, it has been ranked in five and has been voted by consensus in first place three times and in second place twice. This is a most loyal wine rated consistently in my dinners.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">The consensus vote would be:pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">1 - Chambertin Clos de Bèze Pierre Damoy 1961,pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">2 - Gevrey-Chambertin of 1949 Lavoyepierre Négociant,pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">3 – La Tache, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1983,pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">4 - Côtes de Nuits vineyard unknown 1947,pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">5 - Echézeaux Domaine de la Romanee Conti 1989.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">My vote is:pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; COLOR: #0000cc; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">1 - Côtes de Nuits vineyard unknown 1947,pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; COLOR: #0000cc; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">2 - Gevrey-Chambertin of 1949 Lavoyepierre Négociant,pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; COLOR: #0000cc; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">3 - Chambertin Clos de Bèze Pierre Damoy 1961,pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; COLOR: #0000cc; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">4 – La Tache, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1983.pan>p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 6pt">pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang="EN-US">We discussed a lot about my method for opening old wines because my guests enthusiastically have noticed how these old wines were in a very good shape. The atmosphere was friendly, cheerful. The restaurant service is always impeccable and attentive, the wine service particularly is perfect. Alain Pégouret cuisine is a remarkable in maturity. It was a great dinner.pan>p>
<
p>
Champagne mousseux de Moët & Chandon sans année vers 1980p>
<
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<
p>Moët
pense que cette bouteille est un faux, notamment avec cette
photo qui montre deux accents sur le mot "fondéé". p>
<
p>Mais alors,
pourquoi le goût était-il aussi bon ? p>
<
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<
p>
Champagne Bollinger R.D. 1988p>
<
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<
p>
Chambolle-Musigny Chanson Père & Fils 1955p>
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<
p>
Chapelle-Chambertin Clair Daü 1976p>
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<
p>
La Tâche domaine de la Romanée Conti 1983p>
<
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<
p>
Grands-Echézeaux domaine de la Romanée Conti 1989p>
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<
p>
Clos de Vougeot Bouchard Père & Fils 1961p>
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<
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Chambertin Clos de Bèze Pierre Damoy 1961p>
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<
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Côtes de Nuits vigneron inconnu 1947p>
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<
p>
Bourgogne très vieux vers 1900p>
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<
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pan style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Gevrey-Chambertin de Lavoyepierre négociant 1949pan>p>
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Château Lafaurie Peyraguey 1964p>
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