Monday, May 12. 2008
The pictures have been taken in chateau de Saran where the 100th dinner of wine-dinners was held. There was a photographer who took these pictures. It is an opportunity to explain my method to open old bottles. The pictures below show the tools that I use, consisting mainly in normal corkscrews used by sommeliers, and in long spirals which are the inside tool of manual screwpull.  
When you pull out the upper part of the capsule, remember that some capsules (here Pétrus 1953) are pieces of art. Think of keeping them as a memory 
I use the sommelier corkscrew to lift the cork by only 2 to 5 millimetres. You can see on the right the two spirals on the table.  
It is important that the spiral stays in the centre of the cork. Turn it slowly. It will go inside the cork and the end of the spiral will go further, but will not touch the wine.  
Jean Berchon, the director for communication and estates of the Moët & Chandon Group looks at me with a great attention  
Once again, quietness is required 
These pictures below are very important, as they show how I use my hands to lift, having only my left hand to help the right hand to pull. The right thumb pushes hard on my left hand, and my other fingers make a lateral move to pull.  
While pulling on the cork of Pétrus 1953, I show that the cork will break into pieces and I will try to lift every piece. Which I did ! 
This tool called “ahso” (in French : “bilame”), is something that I do not use, because I am confident in this method of lifting in two times : 2 to 5 millimetres with the sommelier’s corkscrew, and then lifting the cork with a spiral. The second spiral is ready to be used if, by lifting some pieces stick to the glass. They will come when they are pulled extremely slowly. 
One could think : is it so important to work so carefully, with these two steps. Let us have a look. I was not able to take the upper part of the capsule of Pétrus 1953 complete. 
This is Margaux 1959 
This is Romanée Conti 1972 
Not the slightest piece of cork fell in the wine for each of the wines opened with this method.
Saturday, March 8. 2008
Il est exclu que ce blog contienne des propos politiques. Mais si vous voulez prendre conscience du plus grand problème de l'histoire de l'humanité, allez-ici la course infernale (cliquez sur "la") Je ne commenterai pas mais je dirai seulement que ce problème me hante depuis près de 40 ans.
Thursday, May 17. 2007
To read the procedure concerning opening very old wines, see this : http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/showthread.php?t=88001
Tuesday, April 10. 2007
Sur le forum Robert Parker, un contributeur allemand qui fait des recherches sur l'histoire des écrivains anciens du vin a donné l'adresse du site de Sean Thackrey, vigneron américain qui a accumulé une fantastique bibliothèque. Je vous suggère d'aller voir ce site : site voici les coordonnées de l'auteur de ce lien : message
Monday, March 12. 2007
Hervé This, pape de la cuisine moléculaire (sa biographie), ami de Pierre Gagnaire, recevait avec Odile Lacob et Marie-Odile Monchicourt (co-auteur) au « Cordon bleu » (site) une école de cuisine à vocation internationale. L’occasion de cette rencontre était la sortie de son livre « construisons un repas », chez Odile Jacob, où il explique avec beaucoup de bon sens des plats extrêmement simples ce qui devrait lui ouvrir un large public. Il commence son propos en nous montrant le mariage de l’huile et l’eau, beaucoup plus complexe que ce que chaque écolier a pu constater en classe de chimie. On nous tend un champagne Veuve Clicquot qui a été versé dans une flûte avec des copeaux de truffes. Malgré la sympathie naturelle que j’ai pour le talent d’Hervé, voilà une combinaison qui ne marche pas. Le nez est altéré, bruni par la truffe, et en bouche le champagne domine, rendu amer et court par la truffe. L’œuf mayonnaise d’Hervé mériterait d’être homologué au Bureau International des Poids et Mesures, comme l’accord sauternes et stilton et l’accord Comté et vin jaune. Son exposé est brillant, malin et enjoué. Il donne envie d’en savoir plus sur ce savant qui s’amuse à vulgariser des notions scientifiques pour notre plaisir.
Thursday, February 22. 2007
Ce sujet n'a rien à voir avec le vin. Mais par un hasard de discussions sur un forum, quelqu'un m'a donné l'adresse d'un site où il y a le texte intégral des "Tontons Flingueurs". Alors, si vous vous sentez un peu faible, une petite morosité passagère, allez lire quelques belles phrases. Comme dit une publicité pour une barre chocolatée : un petit coup de Tontons Flingueurs, et ça repart. C'est un peu dommage qu'il y ait des fautes d'orthographe, car ce texte devrait être gravé dans le marbre.
Tuesday, February 6. 2007
Le Salon des Vins de Loire a couronné un blog parlant du vin. Truculent, plein de belles histoires écrites d'un ton enjoué, c'est un blog à déguser sans modération. Blog d'Olif
Wednesday, January 17. 2007
Un ami, Alain Bringol, gère un site qui s'appelle winemega.com. Sur ce site, il y a une section qui s'appelle "l'actualité des blogs". Si vous voulez connaître les récents messages de blogs sur le vin ou la gastronomie, notez cette adresse sur vos tablettes, car ça permet bien de sélectionner ce qui vient de se dire récemment sur plusieurs blogs intéressants. http://www.winemega.com/fr/art_blogs.php
Tuesday, January 9. 2007
On peut lire le nom de tous les artistes qui ont dessiné ou peint les étiquettes de Mouton en cliquant ici.
Saturday, January 6. 2007
Un gastronome averti, Eric Bernardin, décrit des recettes avec des photos explicatives remarquables. Voici l'adresse de "à boire et à manger" : blog Par ailleurs, il a raconté le dîner du 31 janvier 2006 que j'avais organisé pour convaincre les membres d'un forum où nous écrivons tous les deux, de l'intérêt des vins anciens. Son compte-rendu mérite d'être lu (sur la page qui démarre le 7 février 2006, lire plus bas le sujet du 4 février) Dîner
Thursday, December 28. 2006
 Lors de l'académie des vins anciens du 22 novembre 2006, un ami a fait une vidéo sur la façon d'ouvrir les bouteilles anciennes. Si vous voulez la voir, cliquez sur : vidéo
If you want to see how to open a bottle of an old wine, please click above on the word "vidéo" or on the image to the right
Wednesday, May 17. 2006
As people were sceptical on old wines on a forum, I have sent this message, which is my personal vision on the evolution of several vintages.
I hate to say “I know”. Because a scientific man never says : “I know”. He says : “I have experienced that”. I have significantly drunk old wines for the last 28 years, so, since I was 35.
So, I have drunk wines of 1961 when they were 17 years old and now when they are 45 years old.
I have drunk wines of 1953 when they were 25 years old and now when they are 53 years old.
I have drunk wines of 1945 when they were 33 years old and now when they are 61 years old.
I have drunk wines of 1928 when they were 50 years old and now when they are 78 years old.
I have drunk wines of 1900 when they were 78 years old and now when they are 106 years old.
So, for me, to imagine what a wine of 1961 will be in ten years is not very difficult as I know what are the similitudes of 1961 with 1945 and with 1934. And having seen how they developed at a certain age, I can imagine what will happen. I do not know, I have an experience which can be used.
And as it is a real subject of excitement for me to imagine the future of vintages, in the book that I have made, I have made a ranking of the millesimes on 130 years, considering what they were producing as a taste for the year 2003, but I have made a ranking of the same millesimes, for what they will show in 2018. It is not difficult for me as I have followed every millesime in its evolutions. I do not pretend that it is true, but I pretend that it is highly probable. And remember that I hate to say “I know”, when I prefer to gently present every of my experiences one after the other, without taking conclusions.
The problem with a human brain is that he likes to rationalise everything. When the water moves on sand, the sand does not remain flat. It creates waves. When the wind moves on the sea, it does not creates a flow, it creates waves. The water which flows from mountains does not take a direct line. So, many people who have drunk wines of the 70ies showing signs of weakness would like to conclude : they go, with a direct line, to their death. It would be so easy. But it is not like that.
Richard Geoffroy, the man who makes and blends Dom Pérignon told me one day : Dom has peaks of perfection when it is 7 years old, 14 years old and 30 years old. I was so happy that we talked about that as it is what I think : the life of a wine is not linear. And, second point, the sinusoid has not a constant period but a varying period.
There are two ways to consider a wine. In its verticality, it is a photography of what the wine is in every millesime at a precise date. Due to Bipin Desai I made a vertical tasting of Montrose which shows obviously that the optimal period for Montrose is the marvellous period of the 20ies. And last week I explored Jura wines, and for red wines of Jura, it is obvious that the glory of the reds is obtained with the wines of the 40ies.
But there is another approach which is to consider how the evolution of every millesime is. And there, I have the chance to witness that. I will give you my opinion on certain years, which is of course a mix of the observation of various wines, and is influenced by my taste. I am a human being, so my taste belongs to me. But as I have checked the reactions of people drinking the same wines with me, I feel entitled to say some opinions. Of course I know that showing me in the middle of the field, I can easily be attacked. But I prefer to talk about my experience than to stay silent. The comments are based on red wines, with a mix of Bordeaux plus Burgundy (difficult to mix).
- after 1990, I cannot give any opinion, as it is not a subject on which my opinion is useful for anyone.
- 1990 is a magnificent year, one of the best ever. I see it performing magnificently at any age. It can be drunk now, and will be appreciated at any age. A year which will last for ever (one will find that 1989 performs more for several wines, but what I want to do is to give an idea on the life of years)
- 1982 will improve. But for me, 1982 has not yet decided if it will develop like 1970 and 1975, which means : not famous, or as 1961, which means famous. So, I keep my 1982, as I expect an improvement.
- 1961 is glorious. But 1961 will improve, and I hope it will become like 1928. So, I drink some, but with no urgency, as 1961 will become more and more perfect
- 1959 is a fantastic year, perfect now, and which will never be better, as it is perfect. It could happen that this year goes to sleep at one period as does the decade 30ies now, but this wine has to be adored now.
- 1955 is at its full optimum. To drink now, as it will never be better (except perhaps in more than 30 years)
- 1953 is solid as 1934 and will be constantly good. Can wait, but can be drunk perfectly now
- 1949 an unpredictable year which does not want to be classified. I am fascinated by its uncertainty and charm.
- 1945 and 1947 : I associate the two years which are very different, and which are very different for every wine. For every wine one of the two years is a full success, but rarely the two. Some people can honestly think that they are at their best. I expect they will soon become as 1928 and 1929. So, I wait a little while consuming them from time to time
- 1934 : solid year, can stay for long. No need to wait too much.
- 1928 and 1929 : the ultimate glory of wine : the optimum state of perfect wines. Will last in the same glory for a minimum of 20 years. Concerning them, I am fascinated by the phenomenon of twin years which prove to be so different : 1995-1996, 1985-1986, 1928-129, 1899-1900. And there are the semi twins, like : 1959-1961, 1945-1947, 1913-1915. These are subjects that I will be happy to explore, as some wines prefer one year and some prefer the other.
- 1926 : as 1949, it is enigmatic, but I adore it. The greatest success for many of my beloved wines
- 1900 : probably the most fascinating year of all : some 1900 belong to my top ten. It is time to drink them (between 1926 and 1900 there are fantastic years, but I describe a general trend)
- 1899, 1870, 1869 and before : have given to me some of the greatest pleasures of my life, but it is absolutely sure that no wine will improve. So these wines have to be drunk as soon as the opportunity exists. As I have many in my cellar, it is the opportunities that I want to create.
For me, the limit to the question : “can I keep them ?” is 1915. It is not the question of the cork, which is crucial for younger wines too, but for the taste, it is sure that no taste will gain to be kept for wines older than 1915.
It is clear, reading that, that I do not consider wine as having a linear life. To think that the life of a wine is linear proves only a lack of experience of some of the greatest wines that vines have given.
I will make now two comments :
- I am free, I do not work for any interest in the wine business, so if old wines were bad, I have the weakness to think that I would have noticed it. And I would have changed my subjects of pleasure. I have in my cellar a significant number of fantastic wines of 1990. It could help me if I changed my mind.
- in a discussion, I have never seen someone being able to change the political preferences of someone else. So, I consider that I will never convince an adversary towards old wines to begin to love them. It is above my ability.
But I felt that it was my duty to say what is my intimate conviction on wines that I love and which have given to me unparalleled pleasures in my life.
Here is the text on the Robert Parker forum. Click on it :
Sunday, March 26. 2006
I create this subject as my method for opening old wines has been called the "Audouze method" on the board of Robert Parker. I find it absolutely funny. Here is what I wrote : I find it absolutely charming to name this method with my name, especially the verb (I tell that to my friends : some of you say “I have Audouzed my wine”, and my friends do not believe that), but I am certainly not the first to have made the experiment. At this very moment, the actuality is on the judgement and perspectives on 2005 wines. So, I create a new message just to answer to some questions which arose on a recent discussion. I will not create any sensation. There is already a text that is the reference on my method. I do not know where it is. So, this message gives only some precisions answering to questions. My personal contribution has been to understand that slow oxygenation has a considerably better effect on a wine than decanting. And of course, the older the wine is, the greater the effect is. Everybody knows that when someone is found in a desert, still living but lacking cruelly of food and water, it is crucially important to feed him extremely slowly. If fed too quickly, he could die. So, the so-called Audouze method should be called : slow oxygenation method. But as some of you have tried to use it by making innovations, I would be happy that this method would be called : “do nothing method”. I would be happy that the method would be used in its total purity. So, the skeleton of this method is : - you open a wine 4 to 5 hours before drinking - you let it stand - you do not touch it anymore - when it is time, you pour it in the glasses - point. The more you use it in its simplest way, the more you will check how efficient it is. I have confused some of you by introducing variations. Let us talk about the variations : 1 – enlarge the surface to give more air : it is better to enlarge the time of opening than to enlarge the surface by drinking a drop of the wine. When the wine smells earth, mud, meat, then enlarge the surface. But if the smell is just shy, let the air play its role. 2 – recork when the smell is very good. You recork with a neutral cork (a cork that smells nothing) only with some millimetres and you do it only when you are afraid that the smell would deteriorate. If the smell of a very old wine is too generous, then you do it (you will do it once out of twenty times or less). 3 – after the slow oxygenation, decant at the last moment : I would not do it as I prefer to never shake the wine by a not necessary operation. The sediment remains at the bottom of the bottle. That’s it. 4 – change the time before opening and service : it is clear that the youngest the wine is the more it will accept a long time. For La Mouline Guigal 1990, you take no risk by opening it 8 to 12 hours before. A question was raised on champagnes. Generally I do not open champagne before serving. The noise of the opening belongs to the symbols of the rarity of the moment of serving champagne. Anyway, it could be done for very strong champagnes like Krug and Salon which could benefit from 20 minutes of open air. For old champagnes, I would not recommend it. So, I hope it answers to your questions : - for young wines, do what you want, as the differences will be minimal, but I would prefer a young wine opened with slow oxygenation than with decanting : question of smoothness - for old wines, use the method in its simplicity - if you decide to buy a very expensive wine in a restaurant, I suggest that you buy it before the meal and ask the sommelier to open it four hours before. You will use your money largely better. Thank you for the interest that you show for the method that I use and which helped to save the life for a great number of wines, which would have been refused and thrown away if this method had not been used.
Monday, February 13. 2006
Ayant mangé de l'andouille, délicieuse, sur un Bâtard Montrachet Chanson Père et Fils 1959, j'ai demandé la différence entre andouille et andouillette sur le site www.andouillettes.com Voici ce qui m'a été répondu: Pour répondre à votre question, Andouille et Andouillette sont 2 produits différents; - l'Andouille est servie froide, en entrée, et n'est pas composée exclusivement de porc (on y ajoute du boeuf, souvenez-vous il y a 2 ans avec le crise du boeuf!). Les éléménts rentrant dans la fabrication sont différentes partie des abats (porc + boeuf). - l'Andouillette est servie chaude (pour les connaisseurs, elle s'apprêcie froide afin de mieux saisir le goût!!)? et est constituée exclusivement de chaudin de porc! Elle est assimilée à un plat principal!
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